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Jumpers (Not Jumper Cables) & Jump Starting

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Rahneld

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Uhmmmmmm, I won't concede to being totelly confused yet. My question and the answer may help simplify it in my mind tho.
Let's say I am in the outback and Jeep won't start. Will it jump itself if this jumper lead from n1 to n2 is put in place?
Yes, I believe if:

* The ESS battery is dead but not the main one, and the main one hasn't depleted itself trying to charge the "black hole of a power sink that is a defective ESS battery that sucks the living daylights out of the main battery but itself can't be charged."

(such are the implications of two batteries connected 99.9% of the time in parallel.)

Dead but chargeable ESS battery: yes. : - )

(Thank @Jebiruph who taught this here and showed his hack here.)
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Yes, I believe if:

* The ESS battery is dead but not the main one, and the main one hasn't depleted itself trying to charge the "black hole of a power sink that is a defective ESS battery that sucks the living daylights out of the main battery but itself can't be charged."

(such are the implications of two batteries connected 99.9% of the time in parallel.)

Dead but chargeable ESS battery: yes. : - )

(Thank @Jebiruph who taught this here and showed his hack here.)
What is the factory recommended lifespan , say in general way of the ess battery?
 
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Rahneld

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What is the factory recommended lifespan , say in general way of the ess battery?

??

But I do want to clarify myself. As I see it, the batteries are connected in parallel 99.9% of the time from the factory; 100% of the time with @Jebiruph's hack.
 

allieboy

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Yes, I believe if:

* The ESS battery is dead but not the main one, and the main one hasn't depleted itself trying to charge the "black hole of a power sink that is a defective ESS battery that sucks the living daylights out of the main battery but itself can't be charged."

(such are the implications of two batteries connected 99.9% of the time in parallel.)

Dead but chargeable ESS battery: yes. : - )

If the battery is dead, deceased, defective, failed...use the jumper on n1 n2....remove the ESS battery negative cable.......hopefully powerpack will start jeep
 

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Hgrace

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I thought the jumper wire from N1-N2 WITH ESS BATTERY NEGATIVE DISCONNECTED allows ESS battery , which could be dead or acting screwy, to be removed from system. This would have you back to a one battery system for driving, jumping, charging, etc.
This is the correct procedure for any jump. You must let the voltage equalize and 'warm' the cells of the dead battery.
 

allieboy

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This is the correct procedure for any jump. You must let the voltage equalize and 'warm' the cells of the dead battery.
I was referring not to jumping vehicle but bypassing ESS battery
 

allieboy

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Why would you want to. People are creating problems that don't exist.
Actually, folks have had issues with screwy or dead ESS batteries that even caused issues with jumping. So, the problem DOES exist and I will have the jumper in my glovebox just in case I'm caught alone with my powerpak. There have been a few threads on this.
 

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It's my understanding that the ESS battery can't be removed from the system. Its having power is necessary in order for it to solely power the starter relay to tell the starter to crank the engine--which it's my understanding happens after both batteries are once again put into parallel.

In fact the opposite to your thoughts I think are true. Life could go on without the main battery but not the ESS one. The Jeep Informant showed that on Youtube. : - )
I'm not good at the tech side of posting...but here is a post from @Jebiruph:
Dec 11, 2018
So after a couple months of my voltage reading consistently 14.7 -14.8v, I decided to put the bypass to the test and see if running with the aux battery bypassed would change the running voltage any. 3 days in and it's running 14.4 - 14.5v, not sure if it's making any difference or not. The jumper is attached to N1 and N2 with wing nuts and aux ground is disconnected, PDC cover fits over jumper. I replaced the aux ground cable nut with a wing nut, so if I suspect a problem with the jumper, I can quickly reattach the aux ground cable and pull the jumper fuse to return to normal.
 

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Rahneld

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I'm not good at the tech side of posting...but here is a post from @Jebiruph:
Dec 11, 2018
So after a couple months of my voltage reading consistently 14.7 -14.8v, I decided to put the bypass to the test and see if runn


ing with the aux battery bypassed would change the running voltage any. 3 days in and it's running 14.4 - 14.5v, not sure if it's making any difference or not. The jumper is attached to N1 and N2 with wing nuts and aux ground is disconnected, PDC cover fits over jumper. I replaced the aux ground cable nut with a wing nut, so if I suspect a problem with the jumper, I can quickly reattach the aux ground cable and pull the jumper fuse to return to normal.

Bob...I've given this thought and want to correct something I said that I feel is technically wrong. The cables that lead from the Aux/ESS battery can't be removed from play, but I agree with you now that these cable leads can be disconnected from the Aux/ESS battery, in fact should be, as you point out, if the Aux/ESS battery causes nothing but trouble and Jebiruph's jumper is in place.

The following diagram is conceptual not actual wire connections. As I see it, it shows that from the factory the main battery is connected to the leads that connect to the Aux/ESS battery, in parallel, via the PDC. This is the case 99.9% of the time, the dotted connection in the PDC indicating that for a brief instant during a cold crank (longer in an ESS event), the batteries are separated and the leads that normally leave the Aux battery, as set up at the factory, solely signal the starter relay: a necessary condition for the engine to crank.

From the factory, disconnect the Aux/ESS battery from these leads and the vehicle doesn't start because these leads that leave the Aux/ESS battery, and signal the starter relay, are solely (by factory design) energized by the Aux/ESS battery.

But hook up Jebiruph's jumper (in green) and the wires that leave the Aux battery will always be energized, be it from both batteries if those wires are connected to the ESS battery terminals, or just the main battery if, as you point out, one or both connections to the ESS batteries terminals are seperated, as might wise until a defective Aux/ESS battery is fixed.

Does this sound better?


pdc.jpg
 
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Rahneld

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A very legitimate follow up question asks how to disconnect the Aux/ESS battery short of physically getting to it underneath other things in the engine bay and disconnecting its leads.

When first developing the hack, https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/ its author disconnected the Aux/ESS battery's positive connection at N1, and its ground at the main battery's negative terminal, the one (and only the one) closer to the main battery's negative post I believe.

 

Hgrace

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Actually, folks have had issues with screwy or dead ESS batteries that even caused issues with jumping. So, the problem DOES exist and I will have the jumper in my glovebox just in case I'm caught alone with my powerpak. There have been a few threads on this.
Actually people have been stupid and probably shouldn't be allowed to drive.
It's not rocket science. If you don't know how to jump start your car don't try. Recommendations to modify your vehicle to people who are incapable 8s just asking for problems.
These forums breed myths and the gullible or incapable only dig their troubles deeper
 

allieboy

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Actually people have been stupid and probably shouldn't be allowed to drive.
It's not rocket science. If you don't know how to jump start your car don't try. Recommendations to modify your vehicle to people who are incapable 8s just asking for problems.
These forums breed myths and the gullible or incapable only dig their troubles deeper
Just say no to douchery
 
 



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