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JLURD refrigerator charging off cargo 12v with GoalZero Yeti 500x

lashlee

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i may be off base here, but i think the aux port option would do both. practically speaking the proposed Yeti wiring would still go to the the battery - right? the aux switch just turns the circuit off and on - i think?

i don't see why that would be the case and why they would limit the charging kit to 1000+? if you look at the whole lineup (yeti battery, solar line up, accessories) everything else is interchangeable and compatible across the system. my guess is that they just don't think that anyone would need this system for a battery that is this small. as mentioned previously, i may move up to the 1000x anyways - which would address that problem.

solar panel is dumb i think, so likely using the charge controller in the Yeti battery.
I agree that I don't get why the 500 is not a "part" of integrated charging that they offer for the rest of the line. I also agree that the 1000x is a better option, and will allow you more time on the Goal Zero and less stress on the Jeep. I've pieced together setups like yours in the past and the Goal Zero type of product is a game changer and a much better one box solution.

As for the Aux button question, it depends on how things are wired and how much current draw you need. To do what you plan (battery wired and a separate on/off circuit) could work with what you've got planned. The Yeti charger is setup to be powered all the time (but only use power if a box is connected) and may pull more current than what the Aux switch wiring is designed to provide.
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drick

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I agree that I don't get why the 500 is not a "part" of integrated charging that they offer for the rest of the line. I also agree that the 1000x is a better option, and will allow you more time on the Goal Zero and less stress on the Jeep. I've pieced together setups like yours in the past and the Goal Zero type of product is a game changer and a much better one box solution.

As for the Aux button question, it depends on how things are wired and how much current draw you need. To do what you plan (battery wired and a separate on/off circuit) could work with what you've got planned. The Yeti charger is setup to be powered all the time (but only use power if a box is connected) and may pull more current than what the Aux switch wiring is designed to provide.
I now have a theory on this - while i wait for GZ to answer the questions officially. Looking at the Yetilink kit, it appears that the output connector they are using is a "high power charge port" shown here - https://www.goalzero.com/products/goal-zero-yeti-1000x-portable-power-station (scroll down to bottom for picture with port descriptions). The 1000x still has the 8mm port, so even if i stuck with the original plan and used the ARB wiring kit for second 12v 8mm input that would still work - i think. Looking at the users manual for the 1000x, they moved the second 8mm charge port to the top of the unit and it appears that you can still run two charging inputs. I need to check this as well before i proceed.

On the AUX settings, looking at the primary post here - https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...cable-color-code-wiring-identification.13026/ i think if i out on AUX 1 or AUX2 (i.e. either of the 40a circuits) that it should work. I would need to move my Midland to port 3-4, but that is no big deal.

What do you think?
 
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drick

drick

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Back to the drawing board on my process here.

After speaking to GZ, apparently the fact that my Yeti 500x has two 8mm charging ports and i could have sworn i read somewhere in the manual you can use both to charge concurrently - you can't.

Good news, this saves me a shitton of cost and complexity on wiring adding the ARB or Yeti Link to augment the OEM 12v ports.

Bad news, i'm back to the same problem statement that the OEM port isn't pushing enough voltage for my use case.

So i guess the only option left if i pursue this is to upgrade to the 1000x and try the Yetilink which should push a lot more charging power to the battery?
 

lashlee

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In my mind, if you can swing it the 1000x with the yetilink, it's the cat's meow!! I think all of the headache will disappear once you hook it up.

Goal Zero sets up the Yetilink to use an 8 awg wire directly to the battery with an 80a fuse. Even though you've got 40a of current capacity on the aux switch wiring, it's not really meant to power something like that. At a minimum you would pop the fuse on that individual switch.
 
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drick

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In my mind, if you can swing it the 1000x with the yetilink, it's the cat's meow!! I think all of the headache will disappear once you hook it up.

Goal Zero sets up the Yetilink to use an 8 awg wire directly to the battery with an 80a fuse. Even though you've got 40a of current capacity on the aux switch wiring, it's not really meant to power something like that. At a minimum you would pop the fuse on that individual switch.
that looks like the only way to go i think for my needs without something super custom.

i have requested the install manual and user guide for the YetiLink system as they are not on the GZ website, will then start working with shop to get this scheduled.

thank you again for the recommendation, this will save me thousands in wasted install/rip and replace costs - i appreciate it.
 
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lashlee

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Good luck, and feel free to contact me if you've got other questions along the way. Hopefully you can find a shop close by to help you out with the product/install. Maybe even one with your particular setup to "try it out" before embarking on your trip.

One thing I would recommend, and it's not a necessity, is to use a 4awg wire from the battery to the back where you have a blue sea style of fuse block. That way you've got a convenient way to tap onto constant power without having a jumbled mass of wires going to the positive terminal of the main battery. This way you can add a USB charger, extra lights, or other 12v accessories right in the back.

As for the genesis dual battery suggestion, a less elegant option would be to mount and wire in a second battery in the back (along with the fuse block I mentioned above) if you really feel like you'll need the extra capacity.
 
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drick

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Good luck, and feel free to contact me if you've got other questions along the way. Hopefully you can find a shop close by to help you out with the product/install. Maybe even one with your particular setup to "try it out" before embarking on your trip.

One thing I would recommend, and it's not a necessity, is to use a 4awg wire from the battery to the back where you have a blue sea style of fuse block. That way you've got a convenient way to tap onto constant power without having a jumbled mass of wires going to the positive terminal of the main battery. This way you can add a USB charger, extra lights, or other 12v accessories right in the back.

As for the genesis dual battery suggestion, a less elegant option would be to mount and wire in a second battery in the back (along with the fuse block I mentioned above) if you really feel like you'll need the extra capacity.
thanks for the other install suggestions, i will pass on to the shop when we start this phase.

FWIW i have the Yeti 1000x on order now, waiting for GZ right now on the rest of the pieces parts needed.

once i get this installed will revert with pics and further updates...

if genesis ever releases that kit, i will absolutely do that again and just swing all the accessories over to the second battery like i have on the JK. that has served me well to date and allows me to not do all this engineering.
 
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drick

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just got the Yeti 1000x yesterday and am now experimenting with it. first test on the books, and results are encouraging.

-charged Yeti to 100%
-turned the NL60 to the coldest settings for both compartments
-disconnected AC power to NL60 & Yeti
-connected 12v cable for NL60 -> 12v output on Yeti
-let it run to see how we fare

Currently at almost 10h in and Yeti is still over 65% charge - which is good(ish). the refrigerator was already completely pre-cooled, this is in my garage where the ambient temp is 70(ish), and all items in the NL60 were already cold or frozen.

Going to let it run all day today and see how long we last.

Next up, trying to position it and the refrigerator in the rig (will take pictures and post as several of you have asked for this).

More to follow
 

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drick

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So finally heard back from Genesis on this, and it's not good. Not only can you not fold down one seat all the way - you cannot fold down EITHER seat all the way. This completely eff's up my current setup and needs so i can't use the system as intended.

This leaves me back with looking at doing something like the Goose Gear rear seat delete (very expensive and problematic based on the ARB storage system i have been using for years) - or bagging this whole thing and just using the Yeti 1000x and forgetting about the traditional second battery option.

At this juncture leaning towards option b - so will likely have a brand new Genesis diesel kit up for grabs soob.

#sigh
 

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So finally heard back from Genesis on this, and it's not good. Not only can you not fold down one seat all the way - you cannot fold down EITHER seat all the way. This completely eff's up my current setup and needs so i can't use the system as intended.

This leaves me back with looking at doing something like the Goose Gear rear seat delete (very expensive and problematic based on the ARB storage system i have been using for years) - or bagging this whole thing and just using the Yeti 1000x and forgetting about the traditional second battery option.

At this juncture leaning towards option b - so will likely have a brand new Genesis diesel kit up for grabs soob.

#sigh
Genesis missed the mark with their kit, but the hub is an awesome addition in my opinion. It would be better installed in the little cubby in the back and a smaller battery used or a custom cubby made to replace the OEM and that allows for a larger battery.
 
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drick

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Genesis missed the mark with their kit, but the hub is an awesome addition in my opinion. It would be better installed in the little cubby in the back and a smaller battery used or a custom cubby made to replace the OEM and that allows for a larger battery.
spoke to Genesis live finally today about this. I'm going to return the JLURD kit and have them swap for a JK kit.
 

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Curious, has anyone determined whether the Goal Zero YETILINK VEHICLE INTEGRATION KIT plays nicely with the "smart" alternator in any of the JLUs? Heavy duty 3.6L w/tow alternator? 3.6L etorque system? From the Goal Zero website:
  • While most vehicles manage their battery in nearly identical ways, it has become increasingly common for cars to have slight variations in the way they charge their internal battery system. If you are experiencing slower charging speeds this is due to the integration of smart alternators, which are designed to improve the efficiency of the vehicle and reduce strain on the motor in an idle state. As can be imagined, every manufacturer does this differently. Due to these variances, some of our customers may experience slow charge rates with their Yeti Link when used with a vehicle in a smart alternator configuration. Goal Zero is actively working on a firmware update to address the main concerns regarding the Yeti Link with smart alternator integrations.
https://www.goalzero.com/products/yeti-link-vehicle-integration-kit
 
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drick

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Curious, has anyone determined whether the Goal Zero YETILINK VEHICLE INTEGRATION KIT plays nicely with the "smart" alternator in any of the JLUs? Heavy duty 3.6L w/tow alternator? 3.6L etorque system? From the Goal Zero website:
  • While most vehicles manage their battery in nearly identical ways, it has become increasingly common for cars to have slight variations in the way they charge their internal battery system. If you are experiencing slower charging speeds this is due to the integration of smart alternators, which are designed to improve the efficiency of the vehicle and reduce strain on the motor in an idle state. As can be imagined, every manufacturer does this differently. Due to these variances, some of our customers may experience slow charge rates with their Yeti Link when used with a vehicle in a smart alternator configuration. Goal Zero is actively working on a firmware update to address the main concerns regarding the Yeti Link with smart alternator integrations.
https://www.goalzero.com/products/yeti-link-vehicle-integration-kit
i will be able to tell you that in 2 weeks after i get mine installed (note i have the JLURD not the 3.6, but you said JLU).

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