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JLURD owners - anyone done a Currie RockJock yet?

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Did y'all go forged or aluminum arms on the sway bars? How are the on-road manners compared to stock?
I opted for the chromoly arms over the aluminum ones, because the stronger splines are worth the extra weight in my mind.

Jeep Wrangler JL JLURD owners - anyone done a Currie RockJock yet? 20210815_141454
Jeep Wrangler JL JLURD owners - anyone done a Currie RockJock yet? 20210816_101415
Jeep Wrangler JL JLURD owners - anyone done a Currie RockJock yet? 20210816_101653


I've had the front and rear .770" Antirocks on my daily driver for about a year now. I do get more body roll in quicker corners and sharp curves, but not nearly enough to have slowed down my maneuvers compared to with the factory Rubicon sway bars with Metalcloak rear links and Rock Krawler No Limits front links. One noticed handling improvement is less head toss when driving through a dip in the road that only affects just the drivers or passengers side tires.
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hate the logos. (it's a thing for me.)

how hard would it be to get those stickers off those arms?
 

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question for y'all:
i understand there's a 1" dia. bar now available; has anyone tried this yet after using the .850" bars? i'm wondering if that's what this needs to help regain some of the high-speed stability this thing's lost.

background:
i went with the .850" alloy arms on my diesel Willys. diesel-specific Mopar JLU lift that's settled in at ~3" after winch and Mopar off-road bumper and stuff, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs on Mopar beadlocks.

while i really like the way it balanced out the front/rear flex on my Diesel, i don't care at all for the serious vagueness it's now got at highway speed. (i easily drove this thing home in 16 hours straight from Moab earlier this year before the Antirocks; don't know if i could do that now in its current configuration. and it's vague enough now that there's no way the wife can drive it.)

as a note; the supplied rear links were *way* too long on mine and had to be cut down several inches to where they didn't contact the inner lugs on the tires.
i'm probably still going to adjust the fronts down as far as i can since it looks like i have plenty of droop left available before i have to worry about 'flipping' the arms; they're actually making contact at full stuff. i'm also probably going to move the rear mounting points all the way in/forward again to reduce the leverage on the bar to see if that helps stiffen things up, but honestly didn't feel that much difference when i tried that earlier.
 
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drick

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question for y'all:
i understand there's a 1" dia. bar now available; has anyone tried this yet after using the .850" bars? i'm wondering if that's what this needs to help regain some of the high-speed stability this thing's lost.

background:
i went with the .850" alloy arms on my diesel Willys. diesel-specific Mopar JLU lift that's settled in at ~3" after winch and Mopar off-road bumper and stuff, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs on Mopar beadlocks.

while i really like the way it balanced out the front/rear flex on my Diesel, i don't care at all for the serious vagueness it's now got at highway speed. (i easily drove this thing home in 16 hours straight from Moab earlier this year before the Antirocks; don't know if i could do that now in its current configuration. and it's vague enough now that there's no way the wife can drive it.)

as a note; the supplied rear links were *way* too long on mine and had to be cut down several inches to where they didn't contact the inner lugs on the tires.
i'm probably still going to adjust the fronts down as far as i can since it looks like i have plenty of droop left available before i have to worry about 'flipping' the arms; they're actually making contact at full stuff. i'm also probably going to move the rear mounting points all the way in/forward again to reduce the leverage on the bar to see if that helps stiffen things up, but honestly didn't feel that much difference when i tried that earlier.
hate the logos. (it's a thing for me.)

how hard would it be to get those stickers off those arms?
i think they will likely fall off after some usage (mine appear to be peeling already)
 

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drick

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question for y'all:
i understand there's a 1" dia. bar now available; has anyone tried this yet after using the .850" bars? i'm wondering if that's what this needs to help regain some of the high-speed stability this thing's lost.

background:
i went with the .850" alloy arms on my diesel Willys. diesel-specific Mopar JLU lift that's settled in at ~3" after winch and Mopar off-road bumper and stuff, 35" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MTs on Mopar beadlocks.

while i really like the way it balanced out the front/rear flex on my Diesel, i don't care at all for the serious vagueness it's now got at highway speed. (i easily drove this thing home in 16 hours straight from Moab earlier this year before the Antirocks; don't know if i could do that now in its current configuration. and it's vague enough now that there's no way the wife can drive it.)

as a note; the supplied rear links were *way* too long on mine and had to be cut down several inches to where they didn't contact the inner lugs on the tires.
i'm probably still going to adjust the fronts down as far as i can since it looks like i have plenty of droop left available before i have to worry about 'flipping' the arms; they're actually making contact at full stuff. i'm also probably going to move the rear mounting points all the way in/forward again to reduce the leverage on the bar to see if that helps stiffen things up, but honestly didn't feel that much difference when i tried that earlier.
your experience here is interesting to me as i just did something similar (NorCal to SoAZ).

I would offer that i cant believe that your build is heavier than mine, but i am not having this same experience with my setup. this leads me suggest a real close look at the suspension before you start hacking on the Currie's.

Here are a few questions to start with:

1. Do you know what coil springs / weights came in your lift kit?
2. What shocks are in that lift
3. Did you have the lift first, then add the Curries? If so, then assumption is that it drove well beforehand
4. Do you have steering stabilizer, upgraded track bars, etc. in the lift (balancing all of these is critical - learned that the hard way on the JKUR)
 

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your experience here is interesting to me as i just did something similar (NorCal to SoAZ).

I would offer that i cant believe that your build is heavier than mine, but i am not having this same experience with my setup. this leads me suggest a real close look at the suspension before you start hacking on the Currie's.

Here are a few questions to start with:

1. Do you know what coil springs / weights came in your lift kit?
2. What shocks are in that lift
3. Did you have the lift first, then add the Curries? If so, then assumption is that it drove well beforehand
4. Do you have steering stabilizer, upgraded track bars, etc. in the lift (balancing all of these is critical - learned that the hard way on the JKUR)
Good advice.

I ran the curries and really like them. That said make your suspension mods first then dial in the anti rock.

Go with the ChroMo arms for sure!!

I bought the first arms they made from Currie himself and as much as I like their products, the arm broke and did so exactly where I told him it would. The orginial arms had windows in them to lighten them. I talked to Currie himself at the OffRoad Trade show in Pomona Ca. He was trying to sell me on them. I look I am an engineer and those windows are going to crack in the corners. He swore they would not and he had his first set, laying there on the table and they fit a TJ. He if you buy them and they fail I send you a new set of arms.

I install them PROPERLY and they failed, right in the corner. He would NOT send me a new arm, so I had to buy a whole new kit. I sent him the broken arm and he refused to replace it. So I posted pics and all the forums I was on and I had an Jeep Off road at the time. Well I really caused a stink then. So he posted on there he was sorry, and he would send me a new arm...it never happened.

I could never get him to talk to me on the phone again and never saw at the Off Road Trade show again.

I bit the bullet and bought a new kit and yes it did not have the windows i n the arms anymore.

They do make good stuff, but the engineering was not right on the first arms, but they did fix FAST after I started posting. The problem was I was dealing with one of the sons and the Curries have been around going back to the 60s when I was first racing. Dad to Sons and the egos get bigger and they are all millionaires.

MAKE sure you adjust me correctly and they will work magic.

As for the vague handling, I mitigated that with adjustable shocks. I would drive up to Moab several times a year and adjust those shocks to max firm and my Jeep handled like a rocket ship on rails...
 

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i think they will likely fall off after some usage (mine appear to be peeling already)
wow, that's a delayed response! 😄
i got the alloy arms; they don't have stickers. (see my post.)

your experience here is interesting to me as i just did something similar (NorCal to SoAZ).

I would offer that i cant believe that your build is heavier than mine, but i am not having this same experience with my setup. this leads me suggest a real close look at the suspension before you start hacking on the Currie's.

Here are a few questions to start with:

1. Do you know what coil springs / weights came in your lift kit?
2. What shocks are in that lift
3. Did you have the lift first, then add the Curries? If so, then assumption is that it drove well beforehand
4. Do you have steering stabilizer, upgraded track bars, etc. in the lift (balancing all of these is critical - learned that the hard way on the JKUR)
this sounds like a very long "No (you haven't gone from the .850s to the 1" bar)".

not sure why we're talking about whose rig is heavier,.. and wasn't "hacking on the Currie's [sic]" (they're Rock Jock now,) except to cut down the overly-long rear links. just don't care for the vagueness they introduced to highway driving; kinda' like steering on Novacaine.

1. no; i don't recall the spring rate specifics, i've been using the diesel-specific Mopar lift. (see my post.)
2. Fox. (see #1.)
3. yes, and correct. all drove nicely for 17K+ miles before adding only the Antirocks. (see my post.)
4. yes. Fox ATS stabilizer, Teraflex track bars F&R w/ Rear relocation Brkt, Synergy stabilizer relocation, Synergy track bar/sector shaft brace. (#notmyfirstJ**p ;))


reason i got the Antirocks is i was looking to solve the imbalance between the over-stiffness of the factory front Anti-roll bar and the softness of the rear bar. the Antirocks do that, because they are *so* much softer than the monstrous front bar that J**p put in there, but they're so soft as to make steering input feedback overly lessened; hence the request specific to stiffer bars.
 

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seems to be missing a few words here and there, but otherwise this sounds like another very long "No (you haven't gone from the .850s to the 1" bar)".

restating my question:

anyone have experience going from the .850" bars to the 1" bar ?


Good advice.

I ran the curries and really like them. That said make your suspension mods first then dial in the anti rock.

Go with the ChroMo arms for sure!!

I bought the first arms they made from Currie himself and as much as I like their products, the arm broke and did so exactly where I told him it would. The orginial arms had windows in them to lighten them. I talked to Currie himself at the OffRoad Trade show in Pomona Ca. He was trying to sell me on them. I look I am an engineer and those windows are going to crack in the corners. He swore they would not and he had his first set, laying there on the table and they fit a TJ. He if you buy them and they fail I send you a new set of arms.

I install them PROPERLY and they failed, right in the corner. He would NOT send me a new arm, so I had to buy a whole new kit. I sent him the broken arm and he refused to replace it. So I posted pics and all the forums I was on and I had an Jeep Off road at the time. Well I really caused a stink then. So he posted on there he was sorry, and he would send me a new arm...it never happened.

I could never get him to talk to me on the phone again and never saw at the Off Road Trade show again.

I bit the bullet and bought a new kit and yes it did not have the windows i n the arms anymore.

They do make good stuff, but the engineering was not right on the first arms, but they did fix FAST after I started posting. The problem was I was dealing with one of the sons and the Curries have been around going back to the 60s when I was first racing. Dad to Sons and the egos get bigger and they are all millionaires.

MAKE sure you adjust me correctly and they will work magic.

As for the vague handling, I mitigated that with adjustable shocks. I would drive up to Moab several times a year and adjust those shocks to max firm and my Jeep handled like a rocket ship on rails...
 
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drick

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wow, that's a delayed response! 😄
i got the alloy arms; they don't have stickers. (see my post.)


this sounds like a very long "No (you haven't gone from the .850s to the 1" bar)".

not sure why we're talking about whose rig is heavier,.. and wasn't "hacking on the Currie's [sic]" (they're Rock Jock now,) except to cut down the overly-long rear links. just don't care for the vagueness they introduced to highway driving; kinda' like steering on Novacaine.

1. no; i don't recall the spring rate specifics, i've been using the diesel-specific Mopar lift. (see my post.)
2. Fox. (see #1.)
3. yes, and correct. all drove nicely for 17K+ miles before adding only the Antirocks. (see my post.)
4. yes. Fox ATS stabilizer, Teraflex track bars F&R w/ Rear relocation Brkt, Synergy stabilizer relocation, Synergy track bar/sector shaft brace. (#notmyfirstJ**p ;))


reason i got the Antirocks is i was looking to solve the imbalance between the over-stiffness of the factory front Anti-roll bar and the softness of the rear bar. the Antirocks do that, because they are *so* much softer than the monstrous front bar that J**p put in there, but they're so soft as to make steering input feedback overly lessened; hence the request specific to stiffer bars.
so i had this exact conversation with RJ and with the shop. as stated originally, the 1 in was not available when i ordered mine. shop and i both agreed to start with the .850 and see how it goes. as i don't have the issues you mentioned, there is no need to go stiffer / bigger - for me.

this leads me back to suspension as the place to start IMO, not in modifying or changing the sway bars. i did have a TON of issues trying to get a properly dialed in set of coils as no one has really done the engineering of what is required on the diesels (hence my comment on weight). we had to experiment with three sets before we found the right mix that handles well - and this doesn't count the multiple adjustments on each.

good luck
 

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seems to be missing a few words here and there, but otherwise this sounds like another very long "No (you haven't gone from the .850s to the 1" bar)".

restating my question:
anyone have experience going from the .850" bars to the 1" bar ?
No, I did not, instead I used adjustable shocks to control the ride. Worked out great!
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