JLURD owners - anyone done a Currie RockJock yet?

drick

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Hi,

Per my build thread, i have to make some decisions (relatively quickly before rig goes back into shop) on what to do in replacing the OEM sway bars (both F&R) as they are hitting / rubbing the lift kit. I did a search on this, and don't see anyone with my use case (and diesel JL is much different than gas JL as I'm learning the hard &expensive way).

Shop suggested going Currie RockJock (CRJ) for both F&R which makes sense - but again worried about fitment with the diesel. This all going to be complicated by adding it at same time as the skid plates - which also didn't fit.

So my question for the group is if anyone has done something like this specific config - and what were the results?

  • JLURD (diesel only please)
  • Long arm kit (any brand) with CO's
  • Metalcloak full skid system (steel pref, aluminum ok)
  • CRJ sway kit F&R (also did you go .850 on F&R, or just F)

TIA for any / all inputs

 
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drick

drick

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update on this.. you can currently purchase the "correct" one of these in the front for a JLURD, which is this one:

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-2461...ck-Sway-Bar-Kit-Forged-Arms-.850-in.-Dia.-Bar

After speaking to Currie, they don't make this for the rear yet, but are planning to do so next year. They agreed that for a heavy build like mine (or an overland build) that the .850 bar is what is recommended.

I'm going to wait to replace this until that is released.
 

Headbarcode

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Litebrite has a heavier build. They more recently did the front Antirock to match the one they've been using in the rear for a while now. They said that the full benefits don't get noticed unless both front and right are done. They have a hemi that is front heavy like the diesels, so they preferred the .850" front bar from the JK setup and the .770" in the rear. As overall heavy as their build is, the engine and transmission is the brunt of the added weight on the frame/body. They purposely keep as low of a centerbof gravity as possible, so no need for the .850" rear bar. In my opinion, unless you plan on adding rear body weight like a fridge or freezer in the cargo area and/or a rooftop tent, you should be good with the 850 front and 770 rear combo.

 
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drick

drick

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Litebrite has a heavier build. They more recently did the front Antirock to match the one they've been using in the rear for a while now. They said that the full benefits don't get noticed unless both front and right are done. They have a hemi that is front heavy like the diesels, so they preferred the .850" front bar from the JK setup and the .770" in the rear. As overall heavy as their build is, the engine and transmission is the brunt of the added weight on the frame/body. They purposely keep as low of a centerbof gravity as possible, so no need for the .850" rear bar. In my opinion, unless you plan on adding rear body weight like a fridge or freezer in the cargo area and/or a rooftop tent, you should be good with the 850 front and 770 rear combo.

Thanks HBC

i had watched that video and i actually referenced them when i asked Currie about this. further, the LB folks dont run a spare, i dont recall them having a cage, and i know they did some fancy skid plate system that they were pimping that was plastic or alumiminum. Put all that together, and they are easily 1000lbs lighter than i am.

Currie clearly agrees that there is clearly a gap in the portfolio as they are now planning to release the .850 for the rear for builds like mine, overlanders, and the JT (which is somewhere between the two).
 

Headbarcode

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Thanks HBC

i had watched that video and i actually referenced them when i asked Currie about this. further, the LB folks dont run a spare, i dont recall them having a cage, and i know they did some fancy skid plate system that they were pimping that was plastic or alumiminum. Put all that together, and they are easily 1000lbs lighter than i am.

Currie clearly agrees that there is clearly a gap in the portfolio as they are now planning to release the .850 for the rear for builds like mine, overlanders, and the JT (which is somewhere between the two).
They have the aluminum skids from Next Venture Motorsports with the optional some sorta plastic overlay stuff.

And the Step Child is currently at 6700 lbs. Is your Jeep really 7700ish lbs?
 
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drick

drick

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They have the aluminum skids from Next Venture Motorsports with the optional some sorta plastic overlay stuff.

And the Step Child is currently at 6700 lbs. Is your Jeep really 7700ish lbs?
honestly dont know yet as i'm still waiting for the MC steel skids to come in. will tell you when everything gets installed and i get the tools, frig, etc. loaded up

if they are that heavy without all that stuff and we know the diesel weighs 400lbs more than the gas motor - i would say it's very possible.
 
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drick

drick

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the shop claims that they can now order the .850 and have one coming for me. honestly not sure i believe this over the OEM, but will report back if true
 
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drick

drick

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so, 6 months out, what are your impressions of the RockJock anti-sway bars?

my Willys isn't running as heavy as yours, but i'm looking for a system i can leave hooked up and get more and balanced articulation.
i would strongly recommend them with the heavy bars - it runs very well and i didnt give up any noticeable articulation. they have now come up with an even heavier bar that is a full inch (up from the .850). i may actually throw that in and move the .850 over to my JK next
 

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good to know; thanks.

i'm annoyed by how much more easily the rear of mine articulates compared to the front. watching video of it moving through rock gardens, it's clear that the entire chassis is following the front axle while the rear axle is going to the limits in the wheel wells.

i'm suspecting the front anti-sway bar is just too much beefier than the rear, though it's pretty clear they didn't exactly nail it with the springs on the Mopar Performance "2-inch" lift either; mine went up over 4" in the front, and under 3" in the rear. (a winch and steel bumper brought the front down to 3.8" and the rear to 3.1".)
i'm toying with the possibility of going with another set of multi-rate springs if i still percieve an issue and can be convinced that anyone has got the springs right for a diesel yet, but really think i want to just loosen the thing up at the anti-sway bars first front and rear.


i would strongly recommend them with the heavy bars - it runs very well and i didnt give up any noticeable articulation. they have now come up with an even heavier bar that is a full inch (up from the .850). i may actually throw that in and move the .850 over to my JK next
 

TX_Ovrlnd

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Did y'all go forged or aluminum arms on the sway bars? How are the on-road manners compared to stock?
 

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My set is scheduled to be here Tuesday. I ordered .850 bar and Forged steel arms.
 

word302

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good to know; thanks.

i'm annoyed by how much more easily the rear of mine articulates compared to the front. watching video of it moving through rock gardens, it's clear that the entire chassis is following the front axle while the rear axle is going to the limits in the wheel wells.

i'm suspecting the front anti-sway bar is just too much beefier than the rear, though it's pretty clear they didn't exactly nail it with the springs on the Mopar Performance "2-inch" lift either; mine went up over 4" in the front, and under 3" in the rear. (a winch and steel bumper brought the front down to 3.8" and the rear to 3.1".)
i'm toying with the possibility of going with another set of multi-rate springs if i still percieve an issue and can be convinced that anyone has got the springs right for a diesel yet, but really think i want to just loosen the thing up at the anti-sway bars first front and rear.
Are you disconnecting the front? You’ll get waaaaay more articulation with some front disconnects. Even the rubicon benefits from a full mechanical disconnect (or the RK no-limits sway bar links).
 

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yeah, we know.
i ran my last J**p fully disconnected. that's not the plan for this one.

if you mean just as a diagnostic to see if it's the springs or the bar that are keeping things from flexing in a balanced manner, not yet; that's on the list.


Are you disconnecting the front? You’ll get waaaaay more articulation with some front disconnects. Even the rubicon benefits from a full mechanical disconnect (or the RK no-limits sway bar links).

 
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