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JLU sport, MC 2.5”, 37” tires

Irishjl

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I have a sport with Rough country 2.5” spacer lift and 35s now. I love the low stance and I want to run 37” Milestar Patagonia. I have a ProRock 44 on order with 5.13 and E-locker, have rear Dana 44 limited slip. I just ordered Metalcloak 2.5” lift . Do you think I will fit 37s? My thought is, if they don’t fit just get Rubicam fenders. Would rather not spend the money on fenders now. If there are any pictures, that would be great.
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I have a sport with Rough country 2.5” spacer lift and 35s now. I love the low stance and I want to run 37” Milestar Patagonia. I have a ProRock 44 on order with 5.13 and E-locker, have rear Dana 44 limited slip. I just ordered Metalcloak 2.5” lift . Do you think I will fit 37s? My thought is, if they don’t fit just get Rubicam fenders. Would rather not spend the money on fenders now. If there are any pictures, that would be great.
My mopar lift is sitting around 2.5 now after settling and bumpers front and rear. I have no rub up front and just rub the inner fender liners in the rear, not the fender flare. My +12 offset wheels allow the rear to tuck up in the wheelwell. My coworker who runs mopar with 37s has -12 and his will hit the fender flare when he flexes a bit but hasn’t ripped off a flare yet. With the sport flares I think you’ll need rubicon flares or aftermarket flares since you wheel it. I’m not to the point of chopping flares but may add rear inner fender liners.

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Irishjl

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Thanks for the feedback. I think I will keep the 35s till I get rubicon fenders and AAL chop kit and do 37” or 38”s. It never ends. Lol
 

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I have a sport with Rough country 2.5” spacer lift and 35s now. I love the low stance and I want to run 37” Milestar Patagonia. I have a ProRock 44 on order with 5.13 and E-locker, have rear Dana 44 limited slip. I just ordered Metalcloak 2.5” lift . Do you think I will fit 37s? My thought is, if they don’t fit just get Rubicam fenders. Would rather not spend the money on fenders now. If there are any pictures, that would be great.
You could chop your existing fenders, which should gain you about 3.5" of up travel
 
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Irishjl

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That’s not a bad idea. May try that first! thanks
 

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Irishjl

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So I cot the 2.5” inch lift installed. Gained 4.25” over stock (on a sport). I have a winch and stubby steel bumper. Sock rearbumpber and 35” tire on the tailgate. Now I think the 35slook small and can fit 37s.

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Just to share a little food for thought. I was looking to go bigger than stock wheels with 315/70 ko2's, and originally thought of 37x12.5, but didn't quite like getting forced into a D- or E-rated tire. Ended up going with a set of 38x13.5 Milestar Pat's, which are not only C-rated but have a weight very comparable to a heavier 35.
 
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Irishjl

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That is my end goal (38s). Problem is I would need new wheels (have stock rims). I will need to do the fender chop also to clear 38s, and possibly 37. I am heading to Windrock with some Jeep friends in a few weeks and have spent a fortune already. Going to try 37s first cause they will fit stock rims. Do you have any problems with 13.5” width.
 

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Just to share a little food for thought. I was looking to go bigger than stock wheels with 315/70 ko2's, and originally thought of 37x12.5, but didn't quite like getting forced into a D- or E-rated tire. Ended up going with a set of 38x13.5 Milestar Pat's, which are not only C-rated but have a weight very comparable to a heavier 35.
I’ve been searching for an answer to this question. I really want to go to 37s, but don’t have the funding for a new axel currently. I noticed though that the K02 is incredibly light. With the 37 being only 3# heavier than the 35, and around 5-10# lighter than a few other 35s like some of the nittos. Then close to 30# on some of the other 37s.
Jeep Wrangler JL JLU sport, MC 2.5”,  37” tires 738F98DA-3A24-4D9D-B1C9-CEF0B8966706
 

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I’ve been searching for an answer to this question. I really want to go to 37s, but don’t have the funding for a new axel currently. I noticed though that the K02 is incredibly light. With the 37 being only 3# heavier than the 35, and around 5-10# lighter than a few other 35s like some of the nittos. Then close to 30# on some of the other 37s.
Tire weight mainly taxes your load-bearing components. Ball joints, unit bearings, rear axle flanges.
Tire diameter and grip is what taxes the spinny stuff on the inside. The larger the diameter of the tire, the more leverage it can exert on your drivetrain. Larger diameter tires also have a lot more grip which means you are more likely to break a component instead of just losing traction, compared to a 35.

But with that said you'd have to wheel awfully hard to break an open diff dana 30/35 with a 37 KO2. Partly because open diffs take a lot of drivetrain stress out of the picture, and partly because KO2s are actually pretty shitty tires when it comes to traction.
 

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I’ve been searching for an answer to this question. I really want to go to 37s, but don’t have the funding for a new axel currently. I noticed though that the K02 is incredibly light. With the 37 being only 3# heavier than the 35, and around 5-10# lighter than a few other 35s like some of the nittos. Then close to 30# on some of the other 37s.
Jeep Wrangler JL JLU sport, MC 2.5”,  37” tires 738F98DA-3A24-4D9D-B1C9-CEF0B8966706
I see your rationale on why it being a lighter weight than the usual 37 would make it less of an issue. I'll add to that the fact that the 37 ko2 is more of a 35.5 in actuality.
 

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Tire weight mainly taxes your load-bearing components. Ball joints, unit bearings, rear axle flanges.
Tire diameter and grip is what taxes the spinny stuff on the inside. The larger the diameter of the tire, the more leverage it can exert on your drivetrain. Larger diameter tires also have a lot more grip which means you are more likely to break a component instead of just losing traction, compared to a 35.

But with that said you'd have to wheel awfully hard to break an open diff dana 30/35 with a 37 KO2. Partly because open diffs take a lot of drivetrain stress out of the picture, and partly because KO2s are actually pretty shitty tires when it comes to traction.
Not really even sure I would even wheel hard enough to do any serious damage. The few times I’ve been off-roading so far have been lighter trails. Though that could slowly change as the lockdown lets up. I’ve been debating on just going for it and upgrading whatever breaks. I need to save a little more first though. I do so see what your saying about bigger diameter having more leverage. I drive for UPS, and the trucks with bigger steering wheels are always better to drive.
I see your rationale on why it being a lighter weight than the usual 37 would make it less of an issue. I'll add to that the fact that the 37 ko2 is more of a 35.5 in actuality.
I just looked into that, and found a post where they do infact measure 35.5. Not really sure it’s worth the extra cost then.
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