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JLU smartbar motor rotate

WillysRubicon

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First time posting here, so hopefully the formatting from my phone isn't too bad.

I understand the reasons behind Jeep squeezing out all the MPG they can get, but I can't handle a Jeep with a big plastic shield hanging in front of the axle. So I decided to remove it, this is where I realized how far down the JL smartbar motor hangs down compared to my old JK.

Those who had a JK Rubicon may have heard of the swaybar motor rotation mod. Basically involves rotating up the motor and using a different bolt hole for the rubber hanger. Boom, instant 2in more clearance to the swaybar motor.

So I checked the JL Rubicon to see if a similar mod can be done to improve appearance without the airdam and better protect the swaybar motor. See pictures below.

Everything still functions perfectly... so anyone understand why they do not come like this from the factory? Maybe someone else knows the reason and I will return it back to factory if necessary.

20180721_121012.jpg


20180721_121017.jpg


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aerosynch

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I was thinking about this the other day. Can you tell us what you are pointing at in several of the photos? Have you tried flexing it now and disconnecting to see if there is any binding? Thanks!

EDIT:

Found this video by Metalcloak on a JK that explains it well also and answered some questions:

http://www.metalcloak.com/product-p/3141.htm
 
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WillysRubicon

WillysRubicon

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Yeah oops! Let me break it down. So in these pictures I am showing where I removed the shoulder bolt that goes in the hanger and which bolt I will remove from the housing to mount through the insulator.

The bolt in the comparison picture is not the best choice honestly and I am looking for a better replacement. It's the correct length but it needs more thread for better thread engagement in replacement hole. Best choice would honestly be to turn down the shoulder bolt 3/8" on a lathe.

20180721_121012.jpg


20180721_121017.jpg


20180721_121036.jpg


20180721_121117.jpg
 
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WillysRubicon

WillysRubicon

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In these pictures I am pointing to the wiring harness that is clipped I think an AC line. When rotating the motor up the wiring harness needs to be unclipped in the closest connection.

There are two connections that hold the harness though, from what I see, I recommend sliding the second connection towards the passenger side along the AC(I think) line. This receives stress on the harness but still holds it up out of the way well.

The pictures are in this step by step order.

20180721_121123.jpg


20180721_121139.jpg


20180721_121156.jpg
 
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WillysRubicon

WillysRubicon

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Last pictures, not sure how to post words next to each picture. So hopefully these all make sense, sorry.

Firdt picture here shows the swaybar motor rotated and reassembled. And second picture is the jeep with all aurdams removed and swaybar motor rotated. Looks really great in person.

Last picture is the only concern. The wiring harness from the plug is very close to the condenser. But the wiring harness here was originally in from of the motor and is wrapped by 3 protective sleeves, so I think no concern, but I will monitor it.

Next I will try making a better shoulder bolt that has more thread engagement. Also monitoring real world impact to gas mileage. Too early to really know yet. But honestly, I dont care.

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20180721_121614.jpg
 

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aerosynch

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Perfect, thanks again! This is something I will try once I swap out the front bumper.
 

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Likely the reason they don't do this from the factory is due to space claims in the truck. One group will tell another group they need to stay so far away, and now you have rubber isolators designed not to touch components touching a component. Looking at what you have doesn't seem like too bad of an idea. I've smashed the electronic connector already and am looking for the control board now...
 

irishtim7

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@WillysRubicon

I'm about to do this prior to installing my my new front bumper. Questions...

  1. Did you have to unbolt the swaybar frame mounts before rotating up? I've seen some posts about the JK's needing to do this.
  2. Did you disconnect prior to rotating?
  3. Did you do this with the bumper on?

Thanks.
 

Arterius2

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First time posting here, so hopefully the formatting from my phone isn't too bad.

I understand the reasons behind Jeep squeezing out all the MPG they can get, but I can't handle a Jeep with a big plastic shield hanging in front of the axle. So I decided to remove it, this is where I realized how far down the JL smartbar motor hangs down compared to my old JK.

Those who had a JK Rubicon may have heard of the swaybar motor rotation mod. Basically involves rotating up the motor and using a different bolt hole for the rubber hanger. Boom, instant 2in more clearance to the swaybar motor.

So I checked the JL Rubicon to see if a similar mod can be done to improve appearance without the airdam and better protect the swaybar motor. See pictures below.

Everything still functions perfectly... so anyone understand why they do not come like this from the factory? Maybe someone else knows the reason and I will return it back to factory if necessary.
Why did you also remove the metal (sheet) skid plate as well? At least that offers a bit of protection and serves as a warning system...
 

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Does anyone have the exact specs of the shoulder bolt needed? I’d like to do this but I’m reluctant (i.e. too cheap) to give @ACE Engineering $30 to do so. I can probably find a suitable shoulder bolt or have a friend at a machine shop make one.
 

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irishtim7

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Does anyone have the exact specs of the shoulder bolt needed? I’d like to do this but I’m reluctant (i.e. too cheap) to give @ACE Engineering $30 to do so. I can probably find a suitable shoulder bolt or have a friend at a machine shop make one.
Based on my research for the JK flip, here's what you'll need. It's not a perfect fit, but will get the job done. I, like you, refuse to pay Ace $30 for $5 worth of hardware.

(1) 10mm x 1.5 bolt, ~4" long and fully threaded
(1) Sleeve, ~1.5" long
(3) 10mm nuts
(1) small diameter washer
(2) large diameter washers

upload_2019-4-10_15-21-16.png

upload_2019-4-10_15-23-44.png
 

aerosynch

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Based on my research for the JK flip, here's what you'll need. It's not a perfect fit, but will get the job done. I, like you, refuse to pay Ace $30 for $5 worth of hardware.

(1) 10mm x 1.5 bolt, ~4" long and fully threaded
(1) Sleeve, ~1.5" long
(3) 10mm nuts
(1) small diameter washer
(2) large diameter washers

upload_2019-4-10_15-21-16.png

upload_2019-4-10_15-23-44.png
Looks good I still need to try this. Dumb question, but why can't you reuse the original bolt in the new hole location? Different threads?
 

mlebofsky

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Looks good I still need to try this. Dumb question, but why can't you reuse the original bolt in the new hole location? Different threads?
30 minutes to do the mod?
 

irishtim7

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Looks good I still need to try this. Dumb question, but why can't you reuse the original bolt in the new hole location? Different threads?
You need longer threads because the hole you are putting the new bolt into also secures the side to the motor housing. The original bolt only holds up the motor.
 
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WillysRubicon

WillysRubicon

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@WillysRubicon

I'm about to do this prior to installing my my new front bumper. Questions...

  1. Did you have to unbolt the swaybar frame mounts before rotating up? I've seen some posts about the JK's needing to do this.
  2. Did you disconnect prior to rotating?
  3. Did you do this with the bumper on?

Thanks.

Sorry for the late reply.

Basically no, no, and yes. It was very easy and quick to do. Make sure you completely disconnect the harness clips to allow the length to rotate the assembly.
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