JLU Rubicon Check Your Ball Joints ASAP!!

[OBJLU]

this is from Jeep themselves. I trust their instructions.

I am going to use those values. I think ReadyLift is just going off torque values for the bolt sizes.

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[ocrejects]

Well,
For the last few weeks I have been chasing this bump steer issue and slight wondering steering. From running different PSI to re-balancing and another alignment I decided to double check the Factory steering components and what I found was pretty upsetting to say the least. I removed the cotter pin on both upper and lower ball joints and was able to get 3 full turns on a wrench before I put some serious torque on them, I was quite surprised to see how loose they were right from the factory. After torquing these down I decided to check the bolts on the track bar and yep!! you guessed it, they were just as loose and I was able to get a few turns out of them before really torquing them down. I am not sure if FCA has a torque issue or a out of spec machine but I would highly recommend anyone to check those areas and I can tell you this completely brought my steering back into spec and no more bump steer. I noticed that even with the slight movement of my steering wheel I was able to see the tires move, were as before I had a good 1/4 inch of play before they even buged!! Just a thought for you guys to double check if you are having steering issues. The upper and lower are 7/8 just a note.

Not to alarm you, however, your lower ball joint looks like it’s not even all the way in was that picture taken after they replaced them? I should look like your top one.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Not to alarm you, however, your lower ball joint looks like it’s not even all the way in was that picture taken after they replaced them? I should look like your top one.

I just looked at my ball joints for correct seating in the housing knuckle yokes. Just like the picture above, the lower ball joints don't come up level with the top of the yokes. But looking on the underside, the ball joint has a flange that is seated against the yoke surface. That's what matters. That ball joint flange should be seated against the surface of the knuckle yoke.

 

[XJrider]

This is what I got from my instructions for the ReadyLift SST kit:

• Torque the upper control arms to 110 ft-lbs
• Lower control arms and track bar hardware to 135 ft-lbs
• Shock and sway bar end link hardware to 50 ft-lbs

The kit itself is very nice but I'm not sure about these torque values.

Maybe because they have nothing to do with the track bar or ball joints?

 

[XJrider]

this is from Jeep themselves. I trust their instructions.

This looks correct

 

[jeepauug]

Bigger question - what was the result?

 

[Uhdinator]

Read somewhere that bottom ball joint is torqued then the top and then bottom torqued again. The first torque value for the bottom is to seat the ball joints properly. Then torque top and torque bottom again to a higher value.

Point being is I would not just throw a wrench on it and randomly tighten either one. I would remove cotter pins and then follow torque order and specs.

 

[TIDALWAVE]

I recommend that everyone have your ball joints checked when you accept delivery. At 750 miles, while I was in having my gas tank and fuel pump replaced, my service manager mentioned that his district service manager also directed him to check the steering and ball joints. He found that my Rubi's ball joints "were quite loose" and had them tightened to specs. They also tightened the steering box.

Update: There was a significant improvement in steering/handling. Still has the most wandering of any vehicle I have had in 20 years but much better than before.

 

[jeepauug]

I recommend that everyone have your ball joints checked when you accept delivery. At 750 miles, while I was in having my gas tank and fuel pump replaced, my service manager mentioned that his district service manager also directed him to check the steering and ball joints. He found that my Rubi's ball joints "were quite loose" and had them tightened to specs.

And what was the result?

 

[JROOO]

I just checked my front lowers and they were both cotter pinned in less than spec. The lower left nut was hand tight only. Each nut was set to spec and then advanced to next available hole.

wheeling this morning, no more popping in the front end. The trip over the steering was the tightest it’s been since I’ve bought it, no more loose center.

 

[Wraith]

I just checked my front lowers and they were both cotter pinned in less than spec. The lower left nut was hand tight only. Each nut was set to spec and then advanced to next available hole.

wheeling this morning, no more popping in the front end. The trip over the steering was the tightest it’s been since I’ve bought it, no more loose center.

Did you torque yours to the Spicer specs?

 

[JROOO]

Did you torque yours to the Spicer specs?

Yes, and I had to advance about a quarter inch to the next opening per the instructions.

By the way, this seems imperfect science since first setting to 35ftlbs and then advancing can yield many different final torque values.

 

[grandsrus]

Finally got a chance to tighten both lower BJs. What i had to do, like others, was torque to spec, (33 ft lbs) then go to the next hole for the cotter pin. I am sure this over torques the nut but at this point it fixed my final wobble issues.
Just returned from a drive that normally has wobbles. My god what a night and day difference!
No more wobble down the road, no more bump steer on pot holes or unjulations. Drives straight and points exactly where i want it to go! Finally!!!
I hope you all have the same luck i did!
Thank you for this thread!
Now on to install a 1.5" lift and new shocks so the 35"s can breathe a bit.

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