JLU 315s 2” Mopar Lift Stats

[Foster_WV]

Centered the JL w the help of the TJ and a JKS trackbar, I swear it seems to drive better. Was off by 1.5”

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[Therby]

I was running stock gears on my 35s for months now, 8spd auto. I didn't notice much change in performance after the tires, calibrated for 35s and all so shifting was perfect and rpms were fine. I just had lockers installed this week, regeared while there. Went from 3.45 to 4.56. Holy shit I had no idea there would be so much difference. Insane difference upon dead starts and shifting. OX locker in rear, Eaton Detroit Truetrac up front, Revolution gear sets. $4400 out the door. Couldn't be happier.

How is the OX working? Waiting months for them to release one for the sport m220 axle.

Also do you have a part number on the tru trac you got installed? Thanks

 

[cosmec]

What supporting mods are everyone running with the mopar kit these days?

 

[Therby]

What supporting mods are everyone running with the mopar kit these days?

trackbars are a must, in general they help but on a lift they’re really helpful

geometry correction brackets to get the caster good or adjustable arms(mopar lift is 3” usually) and the longer arms arent long enough that come with it.

sport? Some sway bar disconnects

not sure if they corrected the spring bow, so maybe rock krawler front spring perches

 

[cosmec]

trackbars are a must, in general they help but on a lift they’re really helpful

geometry correction brackets to get the caster good or adjustable arms(mopar lift is 3” usually) and the longer arms arent long enough that come with it.

sport? Some sway bar disconnects

not sure if they corrected the spring bow, so maybe rock krawler front spring perches

JLUR. What about a steering stabilizer?

 

[Therby]

JLUR. What about a steering stabilizer?

no, spend your money on a good trackbar, tie rod, draglink. Maybe synergy sector shaft brace

Any of the above if you have steering issues or just want to improve it. Stabilizer doesn’t do much or will mask real problems

 

[bgj1010]

How is the OX working? Waiting months for them to release one for the sport m220 axle.

Also do you have a part number on the tru trac you got installed? Thanks

The OX was hands-down the best thing I've purchased, aside from the lift and 35s of course. Insane how it boosts your confidence. I generally don't wait to have an issue or start slipping, I just look at the obstacle and engage and power through. Hell, that's why I paid for it! After using it a good amount of times on our runs I'd do it all over again. As for the Eaton up front, sorry, no part number. The shop I went to (props to Mitchell Drivetrain in Shrewsbury, MA) made sure it was the right one. All I know is that it's the TruTrac, much different than the standard Detroit Locker which is very clicky and noisy. The TruTrac uses some crazy helical or whatever gears. High tech stuff :P
Wondering what you're referring to about the M220 though? I see you have a Sport, not a Rubi, so you should have the M200/M186 config like my Sport S. Only the Rubi comes with the M220 f/r. Not sure what Sahara uses. I'm not a Sahara fan. Too much of an in-betweener. If you're spending more than you would on a Sport or S, just go Rubi.
Confession time. When I bought my S, I had NO IDEA I'd be modding it as heavily as I did and joining a club that does some seriously insane runs. I surprise the hell out of them every time, as 98% of them have Rubis of some flavor. The one and only thing I regret about not coughing up the extra dough for a Rubi is the damn M220 (Dana 44s). I'm pretty much there with everything else I've done, but the axles haunt me. Maybe one day, but I daily drive this and will never put larger than 35s on it, so I should be fine. All the guys in my club drive old jeeps aside from 1 JL and a few JKs, and they all have the old Dana 35 (and 30) stigma, as they were bad and broke easily. These new axles are the Dana AdvanTek technology, not their father's Dana 35/30s. They say shit and post all the time, with zero knowledge of the new advancements. Oh well, I know the truth!

 

[Therby]

The OX was hands-down the best thing I've purchased, aside from the lift and 35s of course. Insane how it boosts your confidence. I generally don't wait to have an issue or start slipping, I just look at the obstacle and engage and power through. Hell, that's why I paid for it! After using it a good amount of times on our runs I'd do it all over again. As for the Eaton up front, sorry, no part number. The shop I went to (props to Mitchell Drivetrain in Shrewsbury, MA) made sure it was the right one. All I know is that it's the TruTrac, much different than the standard Detroit Locker which is very clicky and noisy. The TruTrac uses some crazy helical or whatever gears. High tech stuff :P
Wondering what you're referring to about the M220 though? I see you have a Sport, not a Rubi, so you should have the M200/M186 config like my Sport S. Only the Rubi comes with the M220 f/r. Not sure what Sahara uses. I'm not a Sahara fan. Too much of an in-betweener. If you're spending more than you would on a Sport or S, just go Rubi.
Confession time. When I bought my S, I had NO IDEA I'd be modding it as heavily as I did and joining a club that does some seriously insane runs. I surprise the hell out of them every time, as 98% of them have Rubis of some flavor. The one and only thing I regret about not coughing up the extra dough for a Rubi is the damn M220 (Dana 44s). I'm pretty much there with everything else I've done, but the axles haunt me. Maybe one day, but I daily drive this and will never put larger than 35s on it, so I should be fine. All the guys in my club drive old jeeps aside from 1 JL and a few JKs, and they all have the old Dana 35 (and 30) stigma, as they were bad and broke easily. These new axles are the Dana AdvanTek technology, not their father's Dana 35/30s. They say shit and post all the time, with zero knowledge of the new advancements. Oh well, I know the truth!

nice, thanks.
Yeah my sport has the narrow m220 with limited slip, its an option for the rear and standard on manual trans.
I have the m186(30) front though.

waiting patiently for ox to release the rear locker for me, im pretty happy on 35s and think this newer dana 30 will be fine on 35s. Thats why I want to add the trutrac aswell (not a full locker because I think thats a bad recipe for the dana 30) but it will help gain some traction in addition to the rear locker

 

[bgj1010]

trackbars are a must, in general they help but on a lift they’re really helpful

geometry correction brackets to get the caster good or adjustable arms(mopar lift is 3” usually) and the longer arms arent long enough that come with it.

sport? Some sway bar disconnects

not sure if they corrected the spring bow, so maybe rock krawler front spring perches

I upgraded to a JKS adjustable track bar. Wasn't really necessary, as it lined up fine, but my stock bent on a run so I had to go big or go home. Aside from that, the Mopar lift doesn't really need much more than the kit comes with to ride true. My Mpoar 2" lift gave me 4" true height difference. They should totally market it differently, as some think it's just 2", I need way more. Not true. Also, the engineering that went into the Mopar lift makes it ride so awesome on tar or over boulders. I have the JKS Quicker Discos and they are awesome. My springs bow, but don't touch anything and don't hinder the performance at all. Jeep says they're designed that way, which is hard to believe, but when you see them compress and decompress you see they work fine as intended. I know there are aftermarket perches and even the newer Mopar kits come with the updated gray ones, which mine are and still bow a bit, but until something rubs I see no need to spend money on that.

 

[bgj1010]

nice, thanks.
Yeah my sport has the narrow m220 with limited slip, its an option for the rear and standard on manual trans.
I have the m186(30) front though.

waiting patiently for ox to release the rear locker for me, im pretty happy on 35s and think this newer dana 30 will be fine on 35s. Thats why I want to add the trutrac aswell (not a full locker because I think thats a bad recipe for the dana 30) but it will help gain some traction in addition to the rear locker

I love the fact that the TruTrac just works when it's supposed to as long as you're in 4wd. The rear can be engaged in 2wd, so that's pretty slick as well. I'm sure OX is working diligently as we type... peace!

 

[PsychoTrucker81]

I was running stock gears on my 35s for months now, 8spd auto. I didn't notice much change in performance after the tires, calibrated for 35s and all so shifting was perfect and rpms were fine. I just had lockers installed this week, regeared while there. Went from 3.45 to 4.56. Holy shit I had no idea there would be so much difference. Insane difference upon dead starts and shifting. OX locker in rear, Eaton Detroit Truetrac up front, Revolution gear sets. $4400 out the door. Couldn't be happier.

Is this installed in a M200/new Dana 35 or M220/new Dana 44?

 

[bgj1010]

Is this installed in a M200/new Dana 35 or M220/new Dana 44?

M200 Dana 35 in back, M186 Dana 30 up front on my model. Just changed the diff fluid this morning, way early, just wanted to. Went with Royal Purple Max Gear synthetic. 75W-140 in back, 75W-90 up front. Not sure what the shop used when lockers and gears were installed last November, but I swear I can feel a difference with the better, thicker lube. In a good way, feels very smooth.

 

[JLAFAKASI]

Picked up a JLU 2 weeks ago had a ton questions being new to the JL

@bgj1010 is a solid dude, after stalking threads his build was similar to what I had in mind and he answered numerous questions with killer detail. Thanks again!!!

So here is to paying it forward, hope this helps someone.

Stock Suspension 245/75R17
Front Bumper Bottom 19.75”
B Pillar Bottom of Drip Rail 68”
Pinch Weld 16.5”
Frame 12.5”
Bottom Rear Bumper 20”
Front Fender Gap 5.5”
Rear Fender Gap 6”

Stock Suspension 315/70R17
Front Bumper Bottom 21.5”
B Pillar Bottom of Drip Rail 69.75”
Pinch Weld 18.25”
Frame 14.25”
Bottom Rear Bumper 21.5”
Front Fender Gap 3.5”
Rear Fender Gap 4”

Mopar 2” Lift 315/70R17
Front Bumper Bottom 25.5”
B Pillar Bottom of Drip Rail 73.75”
Pinch Weld 22.25”
Frame 18.5”
Bottom Rear Bumper 25.5”
Front Fender Gap 7.5”
*front gap looks larger due parked on hill
Rear Fender Gap 8.25”
Over Height at B-Pillar 6’4”

View attachment 243580

Did you need wheel spacers for these wheels? I have the rubicon take off wheels and bought the mopar lift, I dont want to buy new wheels. I heard that buying different contorl arms will help me run stock wheels as the jks control arms arms are bent away from the wheel

 

[bgj1010]

You will be fine installing and driving with 315 or 12.5in (same thing, almost) tires on the stock 7.9" wheels. No rubbing or anything, but you will not have much, if any, tire poke from the fenders. They will be flush or inset, like stock, but obviously a bit wider. Probably get you to the edge of the fenders. Since this post, I have upgraded even further. I now have 35x12.5x17 BFG KM3s mounted on 17" FUEL Beast wheels. I was running spacers prior to this because I NEEDED the tires to poke. I hate the look of stock wheel position. That said, I ditched the 1.75" spacers a few days prior to receiving my new wheel and tire package to make the swap a little quicker. Drove around on my 315/70R17s with zero rub anywhere at full turn. You'll be fine with no spacers until you eventually get proper wheels with offset and backspacing.

 

[markpc13]

You will be fine installing and driving with 315 or 12.5in (same thing, almost) tires on the stock 7.9" wheels. No rubbing or anything, but you will not have much, if any, tire poke from the fenders. They will be flush or inset, like stock, but obviously a bit wider. Probably get you to the edge of the fenders. Since this post, I have upgraded even further. I now have 35x12.5x17 BFG KM3s mounted on 17" FUEL Beast wheels. I was running spacers prior to this because I NEEDED the tires to poke. I hate the look of stock wheel position. That said, I ditched the 1.75" spacers a few days prior to receiving my new wheel and tire package to make the swap a little quicker. Drove around on my 315/70R17s with zero rub anywhere at full turn. You'll be fine with no spacers until you eventually get proper wheels with offset and backspacing.

do you have leveling kit or lift installed on this picture? Awesome wheels. What roof rack system are you using? thanks for the advice

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