Dynomite1371
Well-Known Member
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- #1
@1100 miles! Ok, I decided to get the first oil change completed. I had mild weather, for once, and since I plan to do all my own routine service and I want to run full synthetic, I just decided to get it done . First, a big shout out goes to @DanW for all his help. I decided to go with Mobile 1, "Extended Prefomance" I plan to do my own oil changes between 5/6k in the future. There's a lot of information out there, so do your own oil research. (let's not turn this thread into "what's the best oil" thread) . Anyway it's about as straight forward and easy as it gets. Having been raised doing my own oil changes, this one can be done in the amount of it would have taken me to pull the filter in some vehicles.
#1 Set your drain pan
#2 Loosen the filter cap with 15/16ths socket. (top, front and center in engine bay)
#3 Drain oil in pan (don't miss) (1/2 socket first)
#4 Remove oil filter and pull apart from cap
#5 Remove old Ring withwstraight edgee Attatch new O Ring to cap and then press new filter into cap. (lightly run some oil on the new O ring before attaching to cap)
#6 After old drains, (5-10 minutes) , level ground is recommended.
#7 Clean pan with rag and replace oil drain nut w-1/2 "socket (do not over tighten quarter turn pass initial stop)
#8 Pull dipstick, and fill with 5 quarts!
#9 Wipe dipstick and check oil leverl (new oil is hard to see on the stick)
#10 I drove it, got it hot, and rechecked the oil level. 5 QUARTS IS IT!
Side notes. To get the $sale on the oil that was running I needed to buy 5 quarts with a filter ($32.99). They only had the Purolator filter. Cross referenced from Mopar # (see pics) Same filter as in the 2016 GCGC and up.
More notes: While driving on my "get it hot" drive I I checked the cluster display under Oil Life. It still showed 86‰. After getting home I turned vehicle off, re-checked the oil level.. then put the vehicle in run mode {2 button presses with for off brake} Pressed the gas pedal to the floor 3 times, then re-checked the cluster display. It read 100‰
Last notes. The original filter looked good after 1100 miles. The Purolator I had to get
(only one they had
) is rated @5k miles. So my next change may come a bit earlier than the planned 5/6k changes.
I checked the old oil with a magnet and didn't notice any metal shavings.
#1 Set your drain pan
#2 Loosen the filter cap with 15/16ths socket. (top, front and center in engine bay)
#3 Drain oil in pan (don't miss) (1/2 socket first)
#4 Remove oil filter and pull apart from cap
#5 Remove old Ring withwstraight edgee Attatch new O Ring to cap and then press new filter into cap. (lightly run some oil on the new O ring before attaching to cap)
#6 After old drains, (5-10 minutes) , level ground is recommended.
#7 Clean pan with rag and replace oil drain nut w-1/2 "socket (do not over tighten quarter turn pass initial stop)
#8 Pull dipstick, and fill with 5 quarts!
#9 Wipe dipstick and check oil leverl (new oil is hard to see on the stick)
#10 I drove it, got it hot, and rechecked the oil level. 5 QUARTS IS IT!
Side notes. To get the $sale on the oil that was running I needed to buy 5 quarts with a filter ($32.99). They only had the Purolator filter. Cross referenced from Mopar # (see pics) Same filter as in the 2016 GCGC and up.
More notes: While driving on my "get it hot" drive I I checked the cluster display under Oil Life. It still showed 86‰. After getting home I turned vehicle off, re-checked the oil level.. then put the vehicle in run mode {2 button presses with for off brake} Pressed the gas pedal to the floor 3 times, then re-checked the cluster display. It read 100‰
Last notes. The original filter looked good after 1100 miles. The Purolator I had to get
(only one they had
I checked the old oil with a magnet and didn't notice any metal shavings.
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