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JL Rubicon caster measure

Cypher

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Great! I'm in the Black Hills right now, heading to Colorado for a month in a couple weeks! Thanks for your feed back!
For what it's worth, PSC recommends 7 degrees caster on the JL. I think that a lifted JLUR on 35s or larger seems to do very well in the mid 6 to low 7 range from all I have been able to find.
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Priherd

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For what it's worth, PSC recommends 7 degrees caster on the JL. I think that a lifted JLUR on 35s or larger seems to do very well in the mid 6 to low 7 range from all I have been able to find.
Yeah, I read that on several threads. I also read that you don't want more than -1 degree of pinion angle. From my understanding, with 7 dergees of caster the pinion angle is at - 1 degree so that means my current pinon angle is - 7.3 with my caster at 7.3. So I'm slightly over what I read was the max.
 

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Yeah, I read that on several threads. I also read that you don't want more than -1 degree of pinion angle. From my understanding, with 7 dergees of caster the pinion angle is at - 1 degree so that means my current pinon angle is - 7.3 with my caster at 7.3. So I'm slightly over what I read was the max.
You’ll be ok.
 

Tsalvador

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I have a stock height JLUR, but weighted down with armor, bumper winch etc. I also have the Mopar LCAs. When measuring the diff holes I get 88.7*, and measuring the flat spot under the knuckle I get 8.7*. Mine actually drives really nice, but may be lifting soon and want to get at least back where I am now.

I zero'd out my Klein digital angle finder at 90 degree vertical and it is now showing 1.3*. It looks like to be at 90* I need shorter LCA, or longer UCA.

I am assuming I am running about 7.3 degree caster correct? This is new to me and I am a little confused. I have adjustable UCA on the way to go with my Mopar Lift LCA so I can get this dialed back in after a lift to keep it driving as nice as it does now.
I’m looking to get the mopar LCA’s from the lift kit to add to my standard height rubicon. Do I just swap the parts or do I need relocation brackets as well? I think this is the same set up you have?
 

Cypher

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I’m looking to get the mopar LCA’s from the lift kit to add to my standard height rubicon. Do I just swap the parts or do I need relocation brackets as well? I think this is the same set up you have?
you can just swap. no brackets for a stock JL, that would add way too much caster with the Mopar lift lca.
 

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Tsalvador

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you can just swap. no brackets for a stock JL, that would add way too much caster with the Mopar lift lca.
Great! I guess a cheap way of getting me to drive straight at highway speeds!
 

Cypher

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Great! I guess a cheap way of getting me to drive straight at highway speeds!
yeah, made a huge difference. best $60 easy mod for sure as far as drivability
 

MntsRcalln

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I want to make sure I have this right. I am seeing conflicting posts.

Measuring at the pumpkin.

0 = 6 Caster
+1 = 5 Caster
+2 = 4 Caster
+3 = 3 Caster

Am I on the right track or am I ass backwards?
 

Moto_21

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I want to make sure I have this right. I am seeing conflicting posts.

Measuring at the pumpkin.

0 = 6 Caster
+1 = 5 Caster
+2 = 4 Caster
+3 = 3 Caster

Am I on the right track or am I ass backwards?
Correct
 

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Moto_21

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Thanks!

What's the best way to know that I have both adjustable LCAs at the same length while adjusting?
Measure center of bolt to center of bolt. Also if you have adjustable uppers dial in caster with the one over the pumpkin and when its set adjust the passenger arm so that the bolt just slides in, dont bother making them the same length, if they are good if its longer or shorter no biggie. The uppers are on a slight triangulation so you just want the main weight one (pumpkin side) to set caster and the passenger side is just a follower.

if they are not adjustable dontworry about it. It just helps eliminate any potential bind if done that way
 

rickinAZ

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Thanks!

What's the best way to know that I have both adjustable LCAs at the same length while adjusting?
What Erik said. Also...it's hard to mismatch length since it they can only be adjusted in full rotations only, so if they're off, it'll be noticeable right away.
 

MntsRcalln

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Measure center of bolt to center of bolt. Also if you have adjustable uppers dial in caster with the one over the pumpkin and when its set adjust the passenger arm so that the bolt just slides in, dont bother making them the same length, if they are good if its longer or shorter no biggie. The uppers are on a slight triangulation so you just want the main weight one (pumpkin side) to set caster and the passenger side is just a follower.

if they are not adjustable dontworry about it. It just helps eliminate any potential bind if done that way
Appreciate it.

I'm just putting on lowers. I only have a leveling kit on it and 35s. Just want to get caster about 6, get my toe right (im out) and adding track bar.
 

MntsRcalln

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I checked mine today. JLUR with stock LCAs, 2in spacer and 35s. Im at 88 and/or +2 however you want to read it. That gives me 4 degrees caster. Ill be fix'n that this week with Teraflex adjustables.
 

Tsalvador

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I checked mine today. JLUR with stock LCAs, 2in spacer and 35s. Im at 88 and/or +2 however you want to read it. That gives me 4 degrees caster. Ill be fix'n that this week with Teraflex adjustables.
my stock JLURD was pulling to the right pretty bad on highway speeds. Caster measured at 5.2

installed 35’s on my rig this week and that right pull is on steroids now.

Im not lifting it, but can only assume the extra tire height is of course making it worst.

mim installing the mopar lift LCA’s tomorrow. Now I’m wondering if it will be sufficient or if I need adjustable ones.
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