JL/JLU/JT Seat Slammers - Big and Tall Front Seat Drop (Desert Does It)

Steel vs 7075 Aluminum


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bigfoot21075

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Here is my 2 cents. On my square tube hack job fix, I ended up settling on 1 3/4" (shimmed to reach that size, BUT I cut the leg at the weld, so with your configuration it would be 2") and that is about perfect for me with about a 34" inseam and being 6'5". As for the metal, my thought is the seat belt is not part of the seat, so in an accident there is not as much force on the seat mounts as there would be if it were. I would be fine with either and look forward to replacing my home made mess with something nice.

One other thought, when I cut mine, I used a metal cutoff wheel and cut the entire leg from the seat at the weld, I did not cut the leg, just the weld. Mine can be put back together. Also, that gave me a nice clean surface to work with. just a thought....





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DesertDoesIt

DesertDoesIt

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This looks very promising! Thank you very much for your efforts! My main priority is to increase the distance between my head and the roof. With option two and three it appears as though you're raising the front and dropping the rear at the same time which would tilt the seat, but what does that do for overall dropping the seat so I have increased headroom? Is the overall effect lowering the seat?
Option 3 (soon to be option 2) will give you the most headroom as it drops the rear of the seat 2". Although it raises the front of the seat .75" your butt is still lower than Option 1 or 2.

Is there a way to make an all inclusive kit? Something like buy option 3, but be able to add spacers to raise it if that angle is too much? Get spacers to make it like option 2 or 1
Absolutely. That is our plan and why I noted that shims would be included to adjust the height. Essentially original Option 1 and 2 are the same kit but with the shims used differently (Editing the first post now)

Primary Parts in OPTION 1:
  • Cutting/Drilling Fixture
  • Drop Leg Blocks
  • Two .5" Shims
  • Four .25" Shims
  • Associated Class 10.9/12.9 Hardware

OPTION 1 Drop Combos:
Drop Combo 1A - No shims in front would require 1" of shims in back (1" rear drop)​
Drop Combo 1B - .25" shim used in front would allow only .5" or .75" of rear shims to dial in comfort (1.25" or 1.5" rear drop)​


Primary Parts in OPTION 2:
  • Everything from Option 1 plus .75" Front Seat Jackers
OPTION 2 Drop Combos (MAX DROP)
Drop Combo 2A - Front Seat Jacker (.75") no shims in back (2" rear drop)​
Drop Combo 2B - Front Seat Jacker (.75") variable rear shims to dial in rear drop (1" to 2" rear drop)​
Option 1 would be the most economical with Option 2 having the most adjustability.

Here is my 2 cents. On my square tube hack job fix, I ended up settling on 1 3/4" (shimmed to reach that size, BUT I cut the leg at the weld, so with your configuration it would be 2") and that is about perfect for me with about a 34" inseam and being 6'5". As for the metal, my thought is the seat belt is not part of the seat, so in an accident there is not as much force on the seat mounts as there would be if it were. I would be fine with either and look forward to replacing my home made mess with something nice.

One other thought, when I cut mine, I used a metal cutoff wheel and cut the entire leg from the seat at the weld, I did not cut the leg, just the weld. Mine can be put back together. Also, that gave me a nice clean surface to work with. just a thought....
Thank you for the feedback and for being one of the guys to blaze the trail. We went back and forth on the best way to cut the rear legs. We landed on cutting them off at an angle for a couple reasons. One its the simplest way to do it and not risk the end user getting sloppy and cutting into the seat rail adding a weak link. Two because steel of the seat rail combined with the steel of the foot makes for a stronger point to bolt through.

In the end a skilled welder could weld the cutoff feet back on.

I agree 100% with the seat belt doing most the work in the case of an accident.



Thank you all for the feedback. Please keep it coming. We are trying to keep price in mind but at the end of the day it is what it is and I hope we can find a solution that works for everyone.

Steve
DDI
 

LAWS

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Thank you for the feedback and for being one of the guys to blaze the trail. We went back and forth on the best way to cut the rear legs. We landed on cutting them off at an angle for a couple reasons. One its the simplest way to do it and not risk the end user getting sloppy and cutting into the seat rail adding a weak link. Two because steel of the seat rail combined with the steel of the foot makes for a stronger point to bolt through.
I'm lucky enough to work at company with CNC shop so I will be making my own when my JLUR arrives a few weeks. I didn't think about the added material making that connection point stronger which is a good point and idea.

Another concern I have with the Aluminum depends on the construction. If you are tapping the aluminum, then It doesn't really matter the strength of your hardware if you rip the threads out before the bolt is even stressed very much. For that reason I was planning on making a welded version to accommodate a nut being placed underneath, and not relying on the strength of threads in a tapped hole.
 

Qwerty43606

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Option 3 (soon to be option 2) will give you the most headroom as it drops the rear of the seat 2". Although it raises the front of the seat .75" your butt is still lower than Option 1 or 2.



Absolutely. That is our plan and why I noted that shims would be included to adjust the height. Essentially original Option 1 and 2 are the same kit but with the shims used differently (Editing the first post now)

Primary Parts in OPTION 1:
  • Cutting/Drilling Fixture
  • Drop Leg Blocks
  • Two .5" Shims
  • Four .25" Shims
  • Associated Class 10.9/12.9 Hardware

OPTION 1 Drop Combos:
Drop Combo 1A - No shims in front would require 1" of shims in back (1" rear drop)​
Drop Combo 1B - .25" shim used in front would allow only .5" or .75" of rear shims to dial in comfort (1.25" or 1.5" rear drop)​


Primary Parts in OPTION 2:
  • Everything from Option 1 plus .75" Front Seat Jackers
OPTION 2 Drop Combos (MAX DROP)
Drop Combo 2A - Front Seat Jacker (.75") no shims in back (2" rear drop)​
Drop Combo 2B - Front Seat Jacker (.75") variable rear shims to dial in rear drop (1" to 2" rear drop)​
Option 1 would be the most economical with Option 2 having the most adjustability.



Thank you for the feedback and for being one of the guys to blaze the trail. We went back and forth on the best way to cut the rear legs. We landed on cutting them off at an angle for a couple reasons. One its the simplest way to do it and not risk the end user getting sloppy and cutting into the seat rail adding a weak link. Two because steel of the seat rail combined with the steel of the foot makes for a stronger point to bolt through.

In the end a skilled welder could weld the cutoff feet back on.

I agree 100% with the seat belt doing most the work in the case of an accident.



Thank you all for the feedback. Please keep it coming. We are trying to keep price in mind but at the end of the day it is what it is and I hope we can find a solution that works for everyone.

Steve
DDI
I really like this approach... If your not sure what you want, get the adjustable kit with all the options available. If you sat in a buddy's Jeep that had it installed and you liked it, you can save a couple bucks and get that specific combo. I will get the all-inclusive combo so I can tweak it how I want via 'some assembly required' method. I am 6'4 with a 34inch inseam. My head is currently 1/2 to 1/4 inch away from the hard top. Head rest adjusts high enough so if rear ended the back of my head doesn't slam into the roll bar. I doubt this will get me below the roll bar however I would be very happy to be further away from the hard top as well as a more tilted seat bottom for leg support/comfort.
 

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Awesome following
 

cburger71

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Nice work! I'm down with the option that will give the most driver's seat downward movement. Excited that someone is willing to provide a solution for us tall guys. I'll be ready to order a set to try out as soon as they are available.
 
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the_webers_inc

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Really looking forward to this being available!
 

RubiconRon

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Sign me up for option 1.. Any idea on pricing and availability?
 

YJGUY

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Will we be able to move the seat further back as well? I need extra leg room as well as the lowering aspect. Maybe the rear lowering portion could work in conjunction with my current Misch 4x4 brackets?

Thanks for your work, it's really helping a lot of people out!
 

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Any update?
 

F800

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I love my jeep so much. I think about it when I’m not in it but I know I’m too big for it. I make due. This product will change my life.

thank you so much for taking the initiative.
 
OP
DesertDoesIt

DesertDoesIt

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Hey guys, pictures below for those that are asking.

We are a solid 3 weeks out on machining these and another 2 weeks on powder so its looking like a late May 2021 release. Once we start machining them, I will get a presale going.

For anecdotal info only, our Toyota Tacoma/4Runner/GX Seat Jackers put the factory seats at a 22 degree angle and a lot of folks seem to really enjoy them.

OPTION 1 Drop Combos:
-Drop Combo 1A - No shims in front would require 1" of shims in back (1" total rear drop). Seat Bottom Angle is 16.5 Degrees (factory is 11.5 degrees)

Desert Does It - Jeep JL Seat Drop 1A Front.jpg


Desert Does It - Jeep JL Seat Drop 1A Rear.jpg


-Drop Combo 1B - .25" shim used in front would allow only .5" or .75" of rear shims to dial in comfort (1.25" or 1.5" total rear drop). Seat Bottom Angle is 18 Degrees (factory is 11.5 degrees)

Desert Does It - Jeep JL Seat Drop 1B Front.jpg


Desert Does It - Jeep JL Seat Drop 1B Rear.jpg



OPTION 2 Drop Combos (MAX DROP):
-Drop Combo 2A - Front Seat Jacker (.75") no shims in back (2" total rear drop). Seat Bottom Angle is 22.5 Degrees (factory is 11.5 degrees)

Desert Does It - Jeep JL Seat Drop 2A Front.jpg


Desert Does It - Jeep JL Seat Drop 2A Rear.jpg


-Drop Combo 2B - Front Seat Jacker (.75") variable rear shims to dial in rear drop (1" to 2" total rear drop)

*No pics but you can use the shims shown in 2A to dial in the rear height.

Happy to field any questions or comments.

Thanks,
Steve
DDI
 

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