JL comfort if lifted

[TTEChris]

I'll tell you my experience. I've lifted dozens of Jeeps and trucks, and the ride ALWAYS gets more firm and stiff afterward. The reason? Geometry. If you increase the angle of control arms and suspension links, you are redirecting energy into the frame of the vehicle in larger proportions. For that reason, it is impossible for a Jeep to "ride like stock" with a lift kit. Ain't happnin'.

Now, how MUCH firmness you pick up depends solely upon how high you lift, whether you use control arm relocation brackets, spring rate (if you replace the coils), shocks, etc. Some kits ride better than others. But none of them will truly ride like stock.

On Wranglers, in particular, you also pick up more yawl when you lift. The reason for that is Wranglers use track bars (sometimes called panhard bars) and when you lift the vehicle these bars increase in angle and cause the axles to sit offset under the Jeep (the axle end is connected at different ends front to rear). So, when you hit dips in the roadway it tries to twist the Jeep a bit. It very much feels like being on an airplane and hitting a patch of turbulence. Sometimes it can be very noticeable and uncomfortable. Other times you can get used to it.

All of this is NOT to say that a lift kit will make your Jeep horrible. All I'm saying is, there is no way it will ride like stock unless it is stock. Be careful reading advertising.

I agree with 99% of what you posted, but you are not taking into account long arm lift kits and draglink flip's with raised front/rear trackbars to match the lift height(I know there are not a lot of options right now, so it makes my point somewhat irrelevant at this moment for the JL.)

My long arm kit rides better than most stock JL Wranglers that come into my shop even though I have aggressive mud terrains. Sure they are noisier than stock, but with the long arm kit it actually rides/handles better than a factory JL.

What you can't get rid of is the classic Jeep aerodynamics. Try lifting a big cardboard box above you'r head on a really windy day, and you have a basic idea of how aerodynamic your Jeep is. But I wouldn't trade that classic shape for any other truck/SUV currently available.

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[Spank]

I'm running the 2" Mopar lift kit on my JL with 35" KO2s and I think it rides just fine. My expectations for ride quality in a Wrangler have always been low, though, and I've been driving these things since the YJ. The ride, steering, and general comfort will always pale in comparison to virtually every other vehicle on the planet, but for a solid axle vehicle with a suspension dynamic that really hasn't changed too much in twenty years, the ride you get is very impressive, lift or otherwise.

 

[Jeeper219]

I'm also running the mopar 2" lift with 35" fun country tires. It rides firmer and stiffer than before the lift. It's a 4 door, but it still rides better with the lift than my 2 door unlifted jk. I like the ride and it tracks straighter with considerably less wandering with the lift.

 

[twisty]

I agree with 99% of what you posted, but you are not taking into account long arm lift kits and draglink flip's with raised front/rear trackbars to match the lift height(I know there are not a lot of options right now, so it makes my point somewhat irrelevant at this moment for the JL.)

My long arm kit rides better than most stock JL Wranglers that come into my shop even though I have aggressive mud terrains. Sure they are noisier than stock, but with the long arm kit it actually rides/handles better than a factory JL.

What you can't get rid of is the classic Jeep aerodynamics. Try lifting a big cardboard box above you'r head on a really windy day, and you have a basic idea of how aerodynamic your Jeep is. But I wouldn't trade that classic shape for any other truck/SUV currently available.

Good post. I have the long arm on my TJ and it made an amazing difference in on road and off road comfort. The TJ arms were very short and transmitted the shock of the road/trail right to the trame and its occupants.

The JL arms appear to be quite a bit longer compared to the TJ's and the mild lifts of around 2 inches I wouldnt think would make the bumpy rides much more abrupt. At least this is what I'm hoping. haha.

As far as tires, I think I am done forever with aggressive meats. They look great but I hate how loud they end up getting. Plus for the most part they arent that much better off road, in fact might even be worse in certain terrains. I did the rubicon on 32 inch michelins and a 2-3 inch lift and never had an issue. Never got stuck, never searched for traction, worked great. I dont advocate that tire but making a point that tires are a lot of hype for the most part.

Honestly who needs big lugs in Moab? You're riding on sand paper for cripes sake. lol

 

[Rubidozer]

I'll tell you my experience. I've lifted dozens of Jeeps and trucks, and the ride ALWAYS gets more firm and stiff afterward. The reason? Geometry. If you increase the angle of control arms and suspension links, you are redirecting energy into the frame of the vehicle in larger proportions. For that reason, it is impossible for a Jeep to "ride like stock" with a lift kit. Ain't happnin'.

Now, how MUCH firmness you pick up depends solely upon how high you lift, whether you use control arm relocation brackets, spring rate (if you replace the coils), shocks, etc. Some kits ride better than others. But none of them will truly ride like stock.

On Wranglers, in particular, you also pick up more yawl when you lift. The reason for that is Wranglers use track bars (sometimes called panhard bars) and when you lift the vehicle these bars increase in angle and cause the axles to sit offset under the Jeep (the axle end is connected at different ends front to rear). So, when you hit dips in the roadway it tries to twist the Jeep a bit. It very much feels like being on an airplane and hitting a patch of turbulence. Sometimes it can be very noticeable and uncomfortable. Other times you can get used to it.

All of this is NOT to say that a lift kit will make your Jeep horrible. All I'm saying is, there is no way it will ride like stock unless it is stock. Be careful reading advertising.

I’ve had many lifted vehicles and jeeps too.
I’ve learned that every angle has to be adjusted to remain in similar arcs of travel to keep the articulation free of bind.
I’ve also learned that I could make my vehicles drive BETTER than stock.
Changing suspension components is a balancing act. I mean that everything changed has caused a necessary change to something else.
The trick is not just buying a kit that is assumed complete but making it complete with additional parts.
For instance: A longer, adjustable track bar can be good, if it remains at a similar angle as the drag link. A track bar bracket can be good, if it has similar angle too. However, it matters where that bracket is located. If you do a spacer Lift that just relocated your suspension to a lower distance from the frame, then you need the bracket at the top.
Spring rates are huge. Most companies just throw springs out there as a one-size-fits-all without actually checking the ride.
I’ve always had to change or upgrade the suspension and steering to fine-tune the ride. For instance, my JKUR had different springs front to rear from different companies to balance the articulation. It had a complete steering change with new tie rod and ends, drag link, and track bar. I changed bushings to eliminate binding and upgraded ball joints to eliminate issues.
In the end, my rig did drive like a smooth, level Cadillac over obstacles that more costly rigs would struggle over. In fact, I’ve always removed my steering stabilizers and left them off because they are unnecessary with upgraded steering joints.
I’m just saying that YES, you can make your rig far better than stock. Just do your homework and don’t just throw parts at it. Make sure the part/parts are necessary and determine if something else will be needed.

 

[Joe Paul]

I’ve had many lifted vehicles and jeeps too.
I’ve learned that every angle has to be adjusted to remain in similar arcs of travel to keep the articulation free of bind.
I’ve also learned that I could make my vehicles drive BETTER than stock.
Changing suspension components is a balancing act. I mean that everything changed has caused a necessary change to something else.
The trick is not just buying a kit that is assumed complete but making it complete with additional parts.
For instance: A longer, adjustable track bar can be good, if it remains at a similar angle as the drag link. A track bar bracket can be good, if it has similar angle too. However, it matters where that bracket is located. If you do a spacer Lift that just relocated your suspension to a lower distance from the frame, then you need the bracket at the top.
Spring rates are huge. Most companies just throw springs out there as a one-size-fits-all without actually checking the ride.
I’ve always had to change or upgrade the suspension and steering to fine-tune the ride. For instance, my JKUR had different springs front to rear from different companies to balance the articulation. It had a complete steering change with new tie rod and ends, drag link, and track bar. I changed bushings to eliminate binding and upgraded ball joints to eliminate issues.
In the end, my rig did drive like a smooth, level Cadillac over obstacles that more costly rigs would struggle over. In fact, I’ve always removed my steering stabilizers and left them off because they are unnecessary with upgraded steering joints.
I’m just saying that YES, you can make your rig far better than stock. Just do your homework and don’t just throw parts at it. Make sure the part/parts are necessary and determine if something else will be needed.

I installed the Mopar 2 on my JLSU and it's better than stock; of course I like a stiffer ride, but this does ride and handle better. Tires and wheels also add to it one way or the other.

 

[Duffinator]

I got my JLU Sahara a couple of months ago so it's clearly overdue for some modification

I was looking at the Teraflex 1.5 in. Performance Spacer Lift Kit (https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-15-performance-spacer-lift-kit-2018-jeep-jl-4-door.html) Since the suspension is new and I don't do allot of rock crawling, I thought this may be an easy lift upgrade.

Does anyone have experience with these? or should I bite the bullet and save up for a whole new kit in a year?

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