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JL accessories to avoid at ALL costs (post your warnings here)

jlewissystem

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Do you or @Chipe have some instructions on how the make the extended bump stops?
I have a short mention of them on pg7 of our biuld thread. Also read this - https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/tailgate-bumpstops.5667/#post-118049

Basically, bought a short piece of 1" PVC, cut them into 2" sections (length may vary), painted them black. Pushed them (evenly) into the stool feet - by first wiggling them in, then putting them on the ground and doing a "pushup", to push them down in. Then insert that result into the factory bumpstops. Cheap and easy! Let me know if anyone has any questions.
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Sean L

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When I ran 4Runners we called these types of “grill guards” damage enhancers. As you learned, they do exactly that.
lol, yep, I will take it off the next time I go off roading.
 

Kraty1

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Does an "accessory" to avoid, count the engine? I would avoid the 3.6 at all cost. What a POS.
I’m curious why you say that? I’ve had no issues whatsoever and thought this engine was tried and true for years?
 

Chipe

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Do you or @Chipe have some instructions on how the make the extended bump stops?
Here is the info I have:

7/8” ID. 1 1/4 OD. 2 ft long 98592Dispose. Ez flo. 98592 (Lowes)
Rubber chair tips. 1 1/8 to 1 1/4. Softtouch. (Lowes)

The rubber chair tips fit right on the ez-flo tube and fit right in the current OEM bumpstops.

Some people are just using the chair tips pushed into the OEM bumpstop. :)

HTH
 

bwright1818

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I’m curious why you say that? I’ve had no issues whatsoever and thought this engine was tried and true for years?
Maybe POS is a bit strong but it has very little low end torque and mine (and some others here on this site) run like garbage between 35 and 45 mph. No exaggeration, the worst running car I have ever owned. Also, it has some funky mechanical noises in it that are considered normal by FCA but you don't usually hear them in modern engines...or even a lot of older engines. It does get up and go, though. I will give it that much.
 

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LearRigh

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I know this gonna sound strange but I hope no one else gets the Rhino Armory Wheels, unless you do not plan on running a spare. I have gone threw three different brake light setups to get around the issue that there is no opening for the light to run through. For instance I got the Spartacus setup and it comes with a brake light where the mounting bolts don't fit into the wheels with enough room to get any attachment to tighten them, and then it comes free with that circle brake light that lights up behind the wheel, which I tried thinking that even behind the wheels should show some light, it did not. Then the last try was getting another tire carrier Teraflex Alpha with the quick detachable release this release barely sits on the end of the new camera housing because the wheels are so deep! So if you plan on running a third brake light with any tire carrier that replaces the brake lights original place behind and above the wheel you are kinda up a creek.

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I know this is a late post - I'm a new owner and I've been creeping on the forums. If you're still having this problem I just saw a fix for this in the "What did you do TO your jeep JL today?" Forum. It was posted back in 2018 (told you I've been creeping).
They mounted a third brake light to the hard top, and had a detachable mount for the sports bar when they went topless.
 

jeepingib

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Nice thread resurrection, I still stand by my statement on the first page. The Mopar lift kit should be avoided unless, you are fully aware that additional components will be necessary for most people.
 

jbozz

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Close all doors, open roof, thread garden hose into Jeep through roof, fill Jeep with water.

If it holds water and does not leak, you're fine.

;)
:giggle::CWL::LOL:
 
 



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