Jeepeto III - JLUR XR (Xtreme Recon) Build Thread

[FreedomFur]

yea, i'm in the same mindset. I'll always find the line that will allow me to crawl and not risk damage.

Have you seen seen the specs anywhere comparing the XR HD Dana 44 to the standard Rubi Dana 44 axles? I have been hunting for them out of curiousity with no luck. I was hoping they are tossing an Ultimate Dana 44 in there, but wouldn’t be surprised since it is FCA.

Sponsored

 

[hoag4147]

Have you seen seen the specs anywhere comparing the XR HD Dana 44 to the standard Rubi Dana 44 axles? I have been hunting for them out of curiousity with no luck. I was hoping they are tossing an Ultimate Dana 44 in there, but wouldn’t be surprised since it is FCA.

Always read it is same the JT Mohave.

The Mojave package's front axle is the wide-track 3rd Generation Dana 44 front with 10mm axletubes, cast iron steering knuckles, 4.10 gears, and an open differential.

 

[Jeepeto]

Your build looks incredible and thanks for the great information. I have the same JL build 2022 on order now. I may of missed some of this in the thread, hopefully I don't repeat to much here. I see you put the MC 3.5 lift on, what did you do with those huge OEM bump stops? Curious thoughts here, I'm staying with 35" tires on the XR wheels. I'm thinking about using the MC 2.5" lift instead of 3.5", assuming that I will gain about an inch over the OEM XR setup. Also which steering components are a must to replace to get the best highway ride as well as flex. My goal is the best possible highway drivability and great flex for wheeling without going too high. I'm a regular Moab visitor so have run most the majors with my 3.5 lifted JK on 35s. I'm also wondering about the double battery and EES. Would using the Mini Tazer fix the dead starter battery situation, turn off the EES? Or is the Genesis Dual battery kit the best idea. I won't be adding any other equipment other than a Warn 10k winch. I think I saw that the 21/22 JL now has a lithium battery instead of the small battery below the battery box, does this fix it? I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you

Your build looks incredible and thanks for the great information.

Thanks man!



I have the same JL build 2022 on order now.

Congrats! You’re going to love it!

I may of missed some of this in the thread, hopefully I don't repeat to much here. I see you put the MC 3.5 lift on, what did you do with those huge OEM bump stops?

they’re still there, however I did have to make sure my alignment was just right to prevent rubbing on the inside of the spring (ended up moving the axle forward a bit and rolling the axle to clear the inside of the spring)

Curious thoughts here, I'm staying with 35" tires on the XR wheels. I'm thinking about using the MC 2.5" lift instead of 3.5", assuming that I will gain about an inch over the OEM XR setup.

Correct, you’ll end up ~1” taller than the XR factory lift. I have a picture on the first page here that shows the 3.5” GC lift and factory 35s. I liked the look, but 2.5” might be a better option if you never plan to run 37s. Moab is a tippy place at times and low center of gravity is nice. I could also justify more lift to save dragging bumpers and belly out there too though. It’s personal preference

Also which steering components are a must to replace to get the best highway ride as well as flex. My goal is the best possible highway drivability and great flex for wheeling without going too high. I'm a regular Moab visitor so have run most the majors with my 3.5 lifted JK on 35s.

I did the drag link, tie rod, and the billet stabilizer relocation bracket. (They didn’t offer a stabilizer, and I just re-used the stock one) It drives great, although I’ll likely do some research and eventually find an upgraded stabilizer to fit. It held alignment after a week trip to Moab over Thanksgiving. I’m quite happy with it.

I'm also wondering about the double battery and EES. Would using the Mini Tazer fix the dead starter battery situation, turn off the EES? Or is the Genesis Dual battery kit the best idea. I won't be adding any other equipment other than a Warn 10k winch. I think I saw that the 21/22 JL now has a lithium battery instead of the small battery below the battery box, does this fix it? I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you

As far as I know , I haven’t heard of any battery issues with the E-torque ESS system. I installed the Genesis dual battery kit to provide my fridge with enough power to run continuously in day to day life. I have heard of others using the Genesis system to replace the little aux battery on the regular ESS system although I didn’t have any issues in the short time I owned my 19 JL sport. As far as the ESS itself, I’ve had both options, my 19 JL sport had the regular ESS and was easily bypassed with the Tazer, my 21 JLUR has the E-torque and it doesn’t have the little aux battery under the main battery tray. I believe it’s a 48v 17-18 KW lithium pack opposite the gas tank. It works flawlessly, and I don’t find the need to bypass it. It provides a nice little shove of torque from a dead stop as well.

 

[path0s]

Always read it is same the JT Mohave.

The Mojave package's front axle is the wide-track 3rd Generation Dana 44 front with 10mm axletubes, cast iron steering knuckles, 4.10 gears, and an open differential.

There is alot of weird information, because In some articles they say a regular rubi has the new 10mm tubes, but yet it doesn't specify the wide track HD tube on build sheets. I believe the rubis are indeed the 7.9mm(believe it's 7.9) and the XR and 392 are 10mm tubes.(basically .400 wall).

I've been talking to someone that has a few contacts with FCA, and they're trying to find more information on the XR axle to see the actual dimensions. I think the only other option is run part numbers and compare to a normal rubi. Specifically the numbers on the tubes.

 

[hoag4147]

There is alot of weird information, because In some articles they say a regular rubi has the new 10mm tubes, but yet it doesn't specify the wide track HD tube on build sheets. I believe the rubis are indeed the 7.9mm(believe it's 7.9) and the XR and 392 are 10mm tubes.(basically .400 wall).

I've been talking to someone that has a few contacts with FCA, and they're trying to find more information on the XR axle to see the actual dimensions. I think the only other option is run part numbers and compare to a normal rubi. Specifically the numbers on the tubes.

I had the wrangler product team lead verify 10MM tubes and cast iron knuckles on the XR pkg. Same axle as 392 except still has FAD.

 

[path0s]

Have you seen seen the specs anywhere comparing the XR HD Dana 44 to the standard Rubi Dana 44 axles? I have been hunting for them out of curiousity with no luck. I was hoping they are tossing an Ultimate Dana 44 in there, but wouldn’t be surprised since it is FCA.

Tried to quote your post in my reply, but it didn't pull over. I asked someone that is in contact with some others at FCA in toledo, we will see what they say. My guess is it's the 10mm axle tubes instead of rubi tubes.

Someone pulled knuckles to install RCVs on one, and he noticed the ends are tapered at the very end to accept RCVs. So if the rubi doesn't have tapered tubes, that's the sign right there that the XR does have the 10mm compared to 7.9mm

 

[trekster]

Your build looks incredible and thanks for the great information.

Thanks man!



I have the same JL build 2022 on order now.

Congrats! You’re going to love it!

I may of missed some of this in the thread, hopefully I don't repeat to much here. I see you put the MC 3.5 lift on, what did you do with those huge OEM bump stops?

they’re still there, however I did have to make sure my alignment was just right to prevent rubbing on the inside of the spring (ended up moving the axle forward a bit and rolling the axle to clear the inside of the spring)

Curious thoughts here, I'm staying with 35" tires on the XR wheels. I'm thinking about using the MC 2.5" lift instead of 3.5", assuming that I will gain about an inch over the OEM XR setup.

Correct, you’ll end up ~1” taller than the XR factory lift. I have a picture on the first page here that shows the 3.5” GC lift and factory 35s. I liked the look, but 2.5” might be a better option if you never plan to run 37s. Moab is a tippy place at times and low center of gravity is nice. I could also justify more lift to save dragging bumpers and belly out there too though. It’s personal preference

Also which steering components are a must to replace to get the best highway ride as well as flex. My goal is the best possible highway drivability and great flex for wheeling without going too high. I'm a regular Moab visitor so have run most the majors with my 3.5 lifted JK on 35s.

I did the drag link, tie rod, and the billet stabilizer relocation bracket. (They didn’t offer a stabilizer, and I just re-used the stock one) It drives great, although I’ll likely do some research and eventually find an upgraded stabilizer to fit. It held alignment after a week trip to Moab over Thanksgiving. I’m quite happy with it.

I'm also wondering about the double battery and EES. Would using the Mini Tazer fix the dead starter battery situation, turn off the EES? Or is the Genesis Dual battery kit the best idea. I won't be adding any other equipment other than a Warn 10k winch. I think I saw that the 21/22 JL now has a lithium battery instead of the small battery below the battery box, does this fix it? I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you

As far as I know , I haven’t heard of any battery issues with the E-torque ESS system. I installed the Genesis dual battery kit to provide my fridge with enough power to run continuously in day to day life. I have heard of others using the Genesis system to replace the little aux battery on the regular ESS system although I didn’t have any issues in the short time I owned my 19 JL sport. As far as the ESS itself, I’ve had both options, my 19 JL sport had the regular ESS and was easily bypassed with the Tazer, my 21 JLUR has the E-torque and it doesn’t have the little aux battery under the main battery tray. I believe it’s a 48v 17-18 KW lithium pack opposite the gas tank. It works flawlessly, and I don’t find the need to bypass it. It provides a nice little shove of torque from a dead stop as well.

 

[path0s]

I had the wrangler product team lead verify 10MM tubes and cast iron knuckles on the XR pkg. Same axle as 392 except still has FAD.

So I'm guessing standard rubis don't have the 10mm tubes. Originally I was under the impression they do.

 

[hoag4147]

So I'm guessing standard rubis don't have the 10mm tubes. Originally I was under the impression they do.

You are correct

 

[trekster]

Your build looks incredible and thanks for the great information.

Thanks man!



I have the same JL build 2022 on order now.

Congrats! You’re going to love it!

I may of missed some of this in the thread, hopefully I don't repeat to much here. I see you put the MC 3.5 lift on, what did you do with those huge OEM bump stops?

they’re still there, however I did have to make sure my alignment was just right to prevent rubbing on the inside of the spring (ended up moving the axle forward a bit and rolling the axle to clear the inside of the spring)

Curious thoughts here, I'm staying with 35" tires on the XR wheels. I'm thinking about using the MC 2.5" lift instead of 3.5", assuming that I will gain about an inch over the OEM XR setup.

Correct, you’ll end up ~1” taller than the XR factory lift. I have a picture on the first page here that shows the 3.5” GC lift and factory 35s. I liked the look, but 2.5” might be a better option if you never plan to run 37s. Moab is a tippy place at times and low center of gravity is nice. I could also justify more lift to save dragging bumpers and belly out there too though. It’s personal preference

Also which steering components are a must to replace to get the best highway ride as well as flex. My goal is the best possible highway drivability and great flex for wheeling without going too high. I'm a regular Moab visitor so have run most the majors with my 3.5 lifted JK on 35s.

I did the drag link, tie rod, and the billet stabilizer relocation bracket. (They didn’t offer a stabilizer, and I just re-used the stock one) It drives great, although I’ll likely do some research and eventually find an upgraded stabilizer to fit. It held alignment after a week trip to Moab over Thanksgiving. I’m quite happy with it.

I'm also wondering about the double battery and EES. Would using the Mini Tazer fix the dead starter battery situation, turn off the EES? Or is the Genesis Dual battery kit the best idea. I won't be adding any other equipment other than a Warn 10k winch. I think I saw that the 21/22 JL now has a lithium battery instead of the small battery below the battery box, does this fix it? I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you

As far as I know , I haven’t heard of any battery issues with the E-torque ESS system. I installed the Genesis dual battery kit to provide my fridge with enough power to run continuously in day to day life. I have heard of others using the Genesis system to replace the little aux battery on the regular ESS system although I didn’t have any issues in the short time I owned my 19 JL sport. As far as the ESS itself, I’ve had both options, my 19 JL sport had the regular ESS and was easily bypassed with the Tazer, my 21 JLUR has the E-torque and it doesn’t have the little aux battery under the main battery tray. I believe it’s a 48v 17-18 KW lithium pack opposite the gas tank. It works flawlessly, and I don’t find the need to bypass it. It provides a nice little shove of torque from a dead stop as well.

 

[trekster]

Curious thoughts here, I'm staying with 35" tires on the XR wheels. I'm thinking about using the MC 2.5" lift instead of 3.5", assuming that I will gain about an inch over the OEM XR setup.

Correct, you’ll end up ~1” taller than the XR factory lift. I have a picture on the first page here that shows the 3.5” GC lift and factory 35s. I liked the look, but 2.5” might be a better option if you never plan to run 37s. Moab is a tippy place at times and low center of gravity is nice. I could also justify more lift to save dragging bumpers and belly out there too though. It’s personal preference


Great!! Information, will save me quite a bit of work. Thank you! Based on your comments, I'm looking closely now at the 3 1/2" MC Game Changer and 37s. Is the Highway handling as good as the OEM 4 Door Rubi Extreme Recon? This is my main concern

 

[JJsJL]

Your build looks incredible and thanks for the great information.

Thanks man!



I have the same JL build 2022 on order now.

Congrats! You’re going to love it!

I may of missed some of this in the thread, hopefully I don't repeat to much here. I see you put the MC 3.5 lift on, what did you do with those huge OEM bump stops?

they’re still there, however I did have to make sure my alignment was just right to prevent rubbing on the inside of the spring (ended up moving the axle forward a bit and rolling the axle to clear the inside of the spring)

Curious thoughts here, I'm staying with 35" tires on the XR wheels. I'm thinking about using the MC 2.5" lift instead of 3.5", assuming that I will gain about an inch over the OEM XR setup.

Correct, you’ll end up ~1” taller than the XR factory lift. I have a picture on the first page here that shows the 3.5” GC lift and factory 35s. I liked the look, but 2.5” might be a better option if you never plan to run 37s. Moab is a tippy place at times and low center of gravity is nice. I could also justify more lift to save dragging bumpers and belly out there too though. It’s personal preference

Also which steering components are a must to replace to get the best highway ride as well as flex. My goal is the best possible highway drivability and great flex for wheeling without going too high. I'm a regular Moab visitor so have run most the majors with my 3.5 lifted JK on 35s.

I did the drag link, tie rod, and the billet stabilizer relocation bracket. (They didn’t offer a stabilizer, and I just re-used the stock one) It drives great, although I’ll likely do some research and eventually find an upgraded stabilizer to fit. It held alignment after a week trip to Moab over Thanksgiving. I’m quite happy with it.

I'm also wondering about the double battery and EES. Would using the Mini Tazer fix the dead starter battery situation, turn off the EES? Or is the Genesis Dual battery kit the best idea. I won't be adding any other equipment other than a Warn 10k winch. I think I saw that the 21/22 JL now has a lithium battery instead of the small battery below the battery box, does this fix it? I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you

As far as I know , I haven’t heard of any battery issues with the E-torque ESS system. I installed the Genesis dual battery kit to provide my fridge with enough power to run continuously in day to day life. I have heard of others using the Genesis system to replace the little aux battery on the regular ESS system although I didn’t have any issues in the short time I owned my 19 JL sport. As far as the ESS itself, I’ve had both options, my 19 JL sport had the regular ESS and was easily bypassed with the Tazer, my 21 JLUR has the E-torque and it doesn’t have the little aux battery under the main battery tray. I believe it’s a 48v 17-18 KW lithium pack opposite the gas tank. It works flawlessly, and I don’t find the need to bypass it. It provides a nice little shove of torque from a dead stop as well.

Any chance you have a picture showing that front bump stop setup inside the MC spring?

 

[path0s]

Any chance you have a picture showing that front bump stop setup inside the MC spring?

I believe last he said he was using 1 puck front 1 puck rear. Before that he was on 2 front and rear.

@Jeepeto was curious if you used your front outboard shock mounts with the kit? Just ordered my 3.5 kit tonight.

 

[Jeepeto]

I believe last he said he was using 1 puck front 1 puck rear. Before that he was on 2 front and rear.

@Jeepeto was curious if you used your front outboard shock mounts with the kit? Just ordered my 3.5 kit tonight.

I’ve changed it a couple times. I think I’m one front 2 rear right now. I’m pretty sure I added one right before I headed to Moab. We were rolling 4 deep with a full fridge/tools/recovery gear/etc and I was thinking better safe than sorry.

I am using the shock relocation bracket. You’re gonna love the MC GC 3.5”, I’m blown away how much flex I’m getting out of a bolt on kit.

 

[path0s]

I’ve changed it a couple times. I think I’m one front 2 rear right now. I’m pretty sure I added one right before I headed to Moab. We were rolling 4 deep with a full fridge/tools/recovery gear/etc and I was thinking better safe than sorry.

I am using the shock relocation bracket. You’re gonna love the MC GC 3.5”, I’m blown away how much flex I’m getting out of a bolt on kit.

I just went with a true dual for now, i'll upgrade control arms over time. Also went with a Adams drive shaft(just used 37.5" as measurement), adams beat metalcloak by about 200$ for the driveshaft.

Been talking abit on the metalcloak page with someone about just general fitment issues. Did you use your rear 4" sway bar drop brackets? Or did you use the black 3/4" spacers.

Sponsored