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basedmora

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So I just got done changing out all 8 speakers on my stock system, 4 kicker 43csc44 4 inch speakers in kick panels and roll bar and 4 43CSC354 3.5 inch speakers in dash and roll bar. Mid’s and high’s are night and day I mean total improvement and crisp and clean up to max volume. The problem I’m having is lack of bass at high volumes and distortion from bass at high volumes. Anything past 30 and the bass distorts pretty badly but if I turn the eq down to -9 bass theres no distortion and the mids and highs still sound great so im assuming the low frequencies is whats ruining the quality. I’d like a little more bass nothing crazy enough to feel and figure a powered sub would do the trick for more bass however if i have the bass turned down to -9 will the sub do anything at all? And if so would adding bass blockers to all 8 speakers allow me to set the eq back to normal levels and get more bass out of the sub? Any input would be appreciated really regretting not getting the upgraded audio lol.
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So I just got done changing out all 8 speakers on my stock system, 4 kicker 43csc44 4 inch speakers in kick panels and roll bar and 4 43CSC354 3.5 inch speakers in dash and roll bar. Mid’s and high’s are night and day I mean total improvement and crisp and clean up to max volume. The problem I’m having is lack of bass at high volumes and distortion from bass at high volumes. Anything past 30 and the bass distorts pretty badly but if I turn the eq down to -9 bass theres no distortion and the mids and highs still sound great so im assuming the low frequencies is whats ruining the quality. I’d like a little more bass nothing crazy enough to feel and figure a powered sub would do the trick for more bass however if i have the bass turned down to -9 will the sub do anything at all? And if so would adding bass blockers to all 8 speakers allow me to set the eq back to normal levels and get more bass out of the sub? Any input would be appreciated really regretting not getting the upgraded audio lol.
I’m not sure we have the same radio. But 30 on my 7” Rubicon stock radio is pretty loud. Not clear, but loud. If you’re really looking for crystal clear sound at that amplitude you may want to look into a 4 channel amp as well.

However, you really need bass. Adding bass blockers to all the speakers will reduce bass and allow for you to turn the volume louder and maintain more clarity. But, it’s never going to sound full.

I put a cheap sub in from amazon, leave my bass adjustment at something like -5 and adjust the bass knob to increase the volume of the bass.

I can’t be heard from 3 blocks away, but it does sound pretty damn good.

Here’s the $90 sub I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-SS...+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvmpbLxDL&ref=plSrch
 

basedmora

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Well its only when im topless and doorless that id crank the sound up since you sorta have to to be able to hear anything on the highway, i guess my question to you would be do you still get decent sound and fell out of that sub when your eq is set on negative bass? Because if at all possible i’d like to avoid taking the jeep apart again just to add the bass blockers in all the speakers, btw kick panel speakers are not a fun install lol. And just so im clear on the install its just power+ground wires and tapping into the speaker wires in the b pillar and connecting it to the high input side on the amp? Is there a need for tapping in a remote wire since it has an auto on feature? Btw my jeep has the 7 inch screen.
 

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Well its only when im topless and doorless that id crank the sound up since you sorta have to to be able to hear anything on the highway, i guess my question to you would be do you still get decent sound and fell out of that sub when your eq is set on negative bass? Because if at all possible i’d like to avoid taking the jeep apart again just to add the bass blockers in all the speakers, btw kick panel speakers are not a fun install lol. And just so im clear on the install its just power+ground wires and tapping into the speaker wires in the b pillar and connecting it to the high input side on the amp? Is there a need for tapping in a remote wire since it has an auto on feature? Btw my jeep has the 7 inch screen.
Yes, lots of bass with the eq set to negative bass.

I grabbed the remote wire off of the cigarette lighter. I’ve had problems with auto-on/off line inputs in different setups. “Once of prevention” in this case... should be fine without but getting to the cigarette lighter in the dash is pretty simple. And, I was already in the area because I mounted my bass knob where my Aux switchs would have been. Bass knob uses a telephone cable to communicate to the amp.

Everything else is as stated.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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So I just got done changing out all 8 speakers on my stock system, 4 kicker 43csc44 4 inch speakers in kick panels and roll bar and 4 43CSC354 3.5 inch speakers in dash and roll bar. Mid’s and high’s are night and day I mean total improvement and crisp and clean up to max volume. The problem I’m having is lack of bass at high volumes and distortion from bass at high volumes. Anything past 30 and the bass distorts pretty badly but if I turn the eq down to -9 bass theres no distortion and the mids and highs still sound great so im assuming the low frequencies is whats ruining the quality. I’d like a little more bass nothing crazy enough to feel and figure a powered sub would do the trick for more bass however if i have the bass turned down to -9 will the sub do anything at all? And if so would adding bass blockers to all 8 speakers allow me to set the eq back to normal levels and get more bass out of the sub? Any input would be appreciated really regretting not getting the upgraded audio lol.
I asked this in a new post last week but didn't get any responses. I'm posing again here since it is directly relevant to your questions:

I have 5" uconnect (it's so awful) and standard speakers. I installed a Kicker Hideaway sub this weekend and it has definitely improved the sound. I had also replaced the four 2.5" with Kicker 77KICK25AB. Again, good improvement.

The overall sound is still not as good as I'd like. I would like to now swap out the four 4" speakers (will probably go with Kicker 41DSC44). My question is, should l buy bass blockers for all four of them (looking at these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB300/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-300-Hz-cut-off.html)? Currently, it's really easy to get distortion with the current speakers. I'd like better speakers and be able to reduce distortion, especially since I have a sub for the lows.

So my question is, how are the existing speakers crossovers set stock? I assume there is some crossover between the tweeter and 4" in both the dash and the soundbar. Since the soundbar is ported, is it set differently than the dash? This post (https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/speaker-sizes-in-new-jl.3367/#post-61390) describes the front 4" as "speakers" and the soundbar 4" as "subwoofers". Not sure how much to read into that, but it tends to imply that maybe the fronts are not being fed bass already, so bass blocking them won't do anything?

Looking for any advice or knowledge about this that I'm missing. Thanks!
 

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Peanut Butter

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I asked this in a new post last week but didn't get any responses. I'm posing again here since it is directly relevant to your questions:

I have 5" uconnect (it's so awful) and standard speakers. I installed a Kicker Hideaway sub this weekend and it has definitely improved the sound. I had also replaced the four 2.5" with Kicker 77KICK25AB. Again, good improvement.

The overall sound is still not as good as I'd like. I would like to now swap out the four 4" speakers (will probably go with Kicker 41DSC44). My question is, should l buy bass blockers for all four of them (looking at these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB300/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-300-Hz-cut-off.html)? Currently, it's really easy to get distortion with the current speakers. I'd like better speakers and be able to reduce distortion, especially since I have a sub for the lows.

So my question is, how are the existing speakers crossovers set stock? I assume there is some crossover between the tweeter and 4" in both the dash and the soundbar. Since the soundbar is ported, is it set differently than the dash? This post (https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/speaker-sizes-in-new-jl.3367/#post-61390) describes the front 4" as "speakers" and the soundbar 4" as "subwoofers". Not sure how much to read into that, but it tends to imply that maybe the fronts are not being fed bass already, so bass blocking them won't do anything?

Looking for any advice or knowledge about this that I'm missing. Thanks!
I, unfortunately, cannot answer your question directly. I don't know how Jeep has the crossovers set in their speakers/ radio.

In, general, I don't think the speakers are your problem. In fact, in a vehicle with separate tweeters, they are the last thing I'd replace. Reason being, stock speakers are almost always more efficient than aftermarket speakers. Your head unit only supplies so much power and it's typically dirty power to boot. If you hook up more power hungry speakers to a stock radio it usually sounds better (clearer, especially with the upgraded tweeters) at lower volumes; but distorts quicker at higher volumes (radio doesn't have enough clean power for given amplitude). With new speakers and a stock radio, you'll most likely experience distortion at lower volumes than previously (exceptions apply).

If you want the sound to be clearer & louder, then I would start with a 4 channel amp. It will increase both amplitude and clarity. As a bonus it will have built in crossovers. Save your money from the speakers and put towards more power.

Other thoughts:
I intentionally purchased a sub that has a separate bass knob that I can control. If your Kicker has that option I would highly recommend connecting (even if it has to be purchased separate). This way, you can adjust your bass up or down by the bass knob and leave the bass down on your radio (always).

Technical advice. You can install passive bass blockers on the front speakers. (marginal difference) Assuming you tapped into the rear speakers for the sub, you can not install bass blocker on those speakers.

I'm sure you've done this already, but try turning your bass down on your radio to say -5. Then adjust your fade slightly rear, and then adjust your bass to your liking (gain up on the amp). If you haven't done this, it just may be the difference.
 

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Those considering bass; I installed the $90 Rockville sub in the rear. I didn’t want to block the heater vent (kids, soft top, Idaho winter)... Plus wear and tear from the kids stuff in the back.
Hi @peanutbutter,
I'm feeling inspired after reading your posts about the sub. I was hoping you could double check my thought process as I haven't installed a sub since I was... substantially younger :)

Looking @ this: https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rw8c...9mhHLcniHoSGRqTDf8vmi3z_tEw-8gbxoC5A4QAvD_BwE

Hoping Under Passenger Seat w/ Heater Wedged above it, or move to trunk like you have.

Power: under passenger rail, through pass firewall to Battery.
Ground: frame next to seat (or any good ground under the carpet)
Speaker: Connect under plastic @ Floorboard where roll bar pillar comes up.
Remote: Ignition Accessory Aux wire
Bass Dial: run w/ Remote wire to dash switch

Does this seem reasonable?

Thanks.
 

Peanut Butter

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Hi @peanutbutter,
I'm feeling inspired after reading your posts about the sub. I was hoping you could double check my thought process as I haven't installed a sub since I was... substantially younger :)

Looking @ this: https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rw8c...9mhHLcniHoSGRqTDf8vmi3z_tEw-8gbxoC5A4QAvD_BwE

Hoping Under Passenger Seat w/ Heater Wedged above it, or move to trunk like you have.

Power: under passenger rail, through pass firewall to Battery.
Ground: frame next to seat (or any good ground under the carpet)
Speaker: Connect under plastic @ Floorboard where roll bar pillar comes up.
Remote: Ignition Accessory Aux wire
Bass Dial: run w/ Remote wire to dash switch

Does this seem reasonable?

Thanks.
Hi @peanutbutter,
I'm feeling inspired after reading your posts about the sub. I was hoping you could double check my thought process as I haven't installed a sub since I was... substantially younger :)

Looking @ this: https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rw8c...9mhHLcniHoSGRqTDf8vmi3z_tEw-8gbxoC5A4QAvD_BwE

Hoping Under Passenger Seat w/ Heater Wedged above it, or move to trunk like you have.

Power: under passenger rail, through pass firewall to Battery.
Ground: frame next to seat (or any good ground under the carpet)
Speaker: Connect under plastic @ Floorboard where roll bar pillar comes up.
Remote: Ignition Accessory Aux wire
Bass Dial: run w/ Remote wire to dash switch

Does this seem reasonable?

Thanks.
That one is bigger than the one I purchased. I wouldn’t plan on it fitting well under the seat. It, for sure, won’t fit under the heater vent. Maybe on top?

Power: yes. I drilled a hole in the fire wall and ran along passenger side. Kick panels are pretty tight for a jeep.
Ground: I scratched some paint by the jack and used self tapping screws to hold it in place. I try to avoid grounding at seat bolts.
Speaker: yes, you can grab the twisted wires in the B pillar behind the access panel. Probably in the kick panel as well, but the bundle is taped there. It would take longer to untape than grabbing them higher in the pillar.
Remote: yes, but I used cigarette lighter.
Bass knob: exactly.

Good luck!
 

robmoz

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I, unfortunately, cannot answer your question directly. I don't know how Jeep has the crossovers set in their speakers/ radio.

In, general, I don't think the speakers are your problem. In fact, in a vehicle with separate tweeters, they are the last thing I'd replace. Reason being, stock speakers are almost always more efficient than aftermarket speakers. Your head unit only supplies so much power and it's typically dirty power to boot. If you hook up more power hungry speakers to a stock radio it usually sounds better (clearer, especially with the upgraded tweeters) at lower volumes; but distorts quicker at higher volumes (radio doesn't have enough clean power for given amplitude). With new speakers and a stock radio, you'll most likely experience distortion at lower volumes than previously (exceptions apply).

If you want the sound to be clearer & louder, then I would start with a 4 channel amp. It will increase both amplitude and clarity. As a bonus it will have built in crossovers. Save your money from the speakers and put towards more power.

Other thoughts:
I intentionally purchased a sub that has a separate bass knob that I can control. If your Kicker has that option I would highly recommend connecting (even if it has to be purchased separate). This way, you can adjust your bass up or down by the bass knob and leave the bass down on your radio (always).

Technical advice. You can install passive bass blockers on the front speakers. (marginal difference) Assuming you tapped into the rear speakers for the sub, you can not install bass blocker on those speakers.

I'm sure you've done this already, but try turning your bass down on your radio to say -5. Then adjust your fade slightly rear, and then adjust your bass to your liking (gain up on the amp). If you haven't done this, it just may be the difference.

Good thoughts. The one thing I definitely missed was that a bass blocker on the soundbar speakers would impact the subwoofer since I tapped those wire. Good catch.

I'm reluctant to install an amp based on what I've ready here. It looks like a bit of a hassle since most have described the need for signal conditioning. I am currently doing what you've suggested which is to crank down the bass on the head unit and crank up the bass on the sub with the remote knob. I'll probably just run this way for a while and see what I think. Thanks again.
 

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Peanut Butter

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I'm reluctant to install an amp based on what I've ready here. It looks like a bit of a hassle since most have described the need for signal conditioning. I am currently doing what you've suggested which is to crank down the bass on the head unit and crank up the bass on the sub with the remote knob. I'll probably just run this way for a while and see what I think. Thanks again.[/QUOTE]

4 channel amps are more work. And, you have the potential to induce a few more problems (engine noise, clipping (low speaker resistance) ect... But, I think it's the solution to your problem (not more speakers). If you decide to go that route; I recommend getting a good amp, and quality rca converters. Unlike bass, quality is important for the highs.
 

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i still want to semi-recreate the alpine audio since i regret not getting the upgrade...i found that buying the speakers from other dealers in parts is very cheap

am i doing this wrong:

https://parts.lithiachryslermedford.com/v-2018-jeep-wrangler--sport--3-6l-v6-gas/body--sound-system

on here you can order the premium speakers for a total cost of around 280 + subwoofer for 150. So 430 dollars to get the same alpine speakers from the upgrade??? so I would just need someone to hook it up the same way and I would be saving money?
 

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i still want to semi-recreate the alpine audio since i regret not getting the upgrade...i found that buying the speakers from other dealers in parts is very cheap

am i doing this wrong:

https://parts.lithiachryslermedford.com/v-2018-jeep-wrangler--sport--3-6l-v6-gas/body--sound-system

on here you can order the premium speakers for a total cost of around 280 + subwoofer for 150. So 430 dollars to get the same alpine speakers from the upgrade??? so I would just need someone to hook it up the same way and I would be saving money?
I think you would need the amp for another $200? I would think it’s at least a 4 hr install so let’s call it $250 in labor (radio shop rates not dealership).

For just shy of $1000 I think you could do better aftermarket. If you decide to go this route, let us know. I’m curious.
 

mango315

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I think you would need the amp for another $200? I would think it’s at least a 4 hr install so let’s call it $250 in labor (radio shop rates not dealership).

For just shy of $1000 I think you could do better aftermarket. If you decide to go this route, let us know. I’m curious.
will do more research and let you know and you are prob right about the amp...i dont mind the aftermarket route, but looking stock is very important to me so i dont want anything visible...i would even be open to do aftermarket speakers but buy that sub, but jeep is making it seem like it is impossible to use the sub without hte package which doesnt make much sense if i get it wired properly
 

Peanut Butter

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will do more research and let you know and you are prob right about the amp...i dont mind the aftermarket route, but looking stock is very important to me so i dont want anything visible...i would even be open to do aftermarket speakers but buy that sub, but jeep is making it seem like it is impossible to use the sub without hte package which doesnt make much sense if i get it wired properly
Based on other factory amplified systems, i would suspect it would be very difficult to just hook up the sub. I would suspect that it is only plug and play as a complete system (speakers would be the only thing that I could see as an exception).
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