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Jeep Wrangler JL Sequential LED DRL & Turn Signals - Morimoto XB LED

Alanscott1

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Hi all using Tazer and they work great. Do everyone elses DRLs get dimmer when the headlights are on? When mine are in DRL mode they are really bright. When the headlights are on they are noticeably dimmer. Sequantial turn signals work as advertised.
Mine do that as well, I figured that was normal operation. My previous Tacoma did the same thing.
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2k2wranglerx

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TRS sent me 2 more pairs of lights. each with a differently set up modification to make them work correctly. They came in yesterday but everyone in the house has been sick as a dog. I'm hoping to test them tomorrow and send back the results so you guys with them can get your adapters!
 

DCBlake

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Just look through the thread pages here as 2k2wranglerx has several video's and other comments around the product... I even have some spots for advice on how to do a few things like pulling one of the flaps out and leaving halogen wiring in place to reuse for later if needed plus it allows you to reuse the current fasteners for new wiring... So basically if you look through all of these you should have a great idea on how to install... The main thing is you will need something to pry out fasteners (trim tool kit), rivet tool for one rivet on fender and a cutter to remove rivet, and then mainly 8 & 10 mm sockets, ratchet / power tool, extensions. The rest is take your time and have patience... I left the fenders on and using all of the info from the threads here & was able to install both in roughly 1 - 2 hours... I did use the 3m 2 sided tape when reinstalling the new lights as per the video instructions from 2k2wranglerx... I attached some pictures of tools used and please note you could prob improvise on trim tool but i recommend using proper tools for job:


To be honest the most difficult items for this is:

1> removing the flap that drops down (with fender attached) behind the lights as shown in his video... I removed a bolt in the engine housing instead of popping the fender clips...

2> disconnecting the wire harness from the connector as it can be a tight space depending on how much of the plastic fender liner you move out of the way...

I have also included a picture to show location points for getting the fender panel removed:

Orange -- items use a trim tool to remove --> 4 items

Purple -- use trim tool to pry up then a wire cutter or snip tool to cut off rivet as this need to be removed in order to get bracket out that hold in light later. -- 1 rivet

Yellow -- 10mm socket and if you don't want to use a ratchet you can use a power drill by turning the wheels each direction to gain clear access to bolts with socket adapter just remember when installing again to use ratchet to fully tighten -- 4 bolts

Blue -- 8mm socket and same as above a power drill can be used with adapter -- 1 item

White -- this is really a push pin expander that has a phillips head... I put trim tool under it to pry a bit while just removing screw a few turns before popping it out

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I just decided to use the Tazer JL and enable the LED turns... Here's what they look like now in sync with my Quake LED Halo lights...



I decided it's just easier to drop the entire wheel well liner as you just have to remove all of the additional items in yellow in attached photos... I didn't want to take a chance to remove fender and break the clips as it's just easier to drop the liner and put back together using new rivets...

Also, the red arrows shows where i zip stripped the wiring harness to the original wiring that was there which allowed me to tuck the control box up and out of the way in the fender... In the last 2 pictures it shows how much easier it is to get to the connector for the lights when the whole wheel liner is dropped...

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View attachment 143278

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Hardybreed

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I just decided to use the Tazer JL and enable the LED turns... Here's what they look like now in sync with my Quake LED Halo lights...



I decided it's just easier to drop the entire wheel well liner as you just have to remove all of the additional items in yellow in attached photos... I didn't want to take a chance to remove fender and break the clips as it's just easier to drop the liner and put back together using new rivets...

Also, the red arrows shows where i zip stripped the wiring harness to the original wiring that was there which allowed me to tuck the control box up and out of the way in the fender... In the last 2 pictures it shows how much easier it is to get to the connector for the lights when the whole wheel liner is dropped...

IMG_6798.JPG


IMG_6800.JPG


IMG_6786.JPG


IMG_6789.JPG


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View attachment 143278

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What color wire on the morimoto’s did you tap for the turn signal on your quakes?
 

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DCBlake

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What color wire on the morimoto’s did you tap for the turn signal on your quakes?

The new Quake Halo Headlights now come with a JL specific wire harness with the T-tap already installed for you so all you have to do really is plug and play... Rob at Quake has been working on this for sometime now trying to make the installation easier... So now you no longer have to find the proper wire from the engine compartment to tap... Again, let's be honest Jeep didn't make it easy to get to this connector anyway...

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TMac99

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I decided it's just easier to drop the entire wheel well liner as you just have to remove all of the additional items in yellow in attached photos... I didn't want to take a chance to remove fender and break the clips as it's just easier to drop the liner and put back together using new rivets...
DCBlake - My new Morimoto DRL/Turn signals are on their way. After reading through all of the posts, it looks to me like it's easiest to drop the entire wheel well liner to do the change (as you suggest). One question - do you know what size plastic rivets I will need to reinstall the liner - I take it they get destroyed when removing the liner. Do you just drill them out, or is there another way to remove them?

Thanks in advance.
 

DCBlake

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DCBlake - My new Morimoto DRL/Turn signals are on their way. After reading through all of the posts, it looks to me like it's easiest to drop the entire wheel well liner to do the change (as you suggest). One question - do you know what size plastic rivets I will need to reinstall the liner - I take it they get destroyed when removing the liner. Do you just drill them out, or is there another way to remove them?

Thanks in advance.

I will post some pics but for my purpose I have a harbor freight up the street and this kit has everything needed.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-with-40-industrial-strength-poly-rivets-97757.html

Tomorrow I will post what rivets out of that set I use and where most of the rivets are located by size. The first ones on front and back are longer as they tie the fender to frame brackets. As far as removing the rivets I use a trim tool to pull them up enough to get wire snips under them to cut off the heads. Again, I will post some pics on this tomorrow for you along with the tools I use to drop liner.
 

DCBlake

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I will post some pics but for my purpose I have a harbor freight up the street and this kit has everything needed.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-with-40-industrial-strength-poly-rivets-97757.html

Tomorrow I will post what rivets out of that set I use and where most of the rivets are located by size. The first ones on front and back are longer as they tie the fender to frame brackets. As far as removing the rivets I use a trim tool to pull them up enough to get wire snips under them to cut off the heads. Again, I will post some pics on this tomorrow for you along with the tools I use to drop liner.
I have uploaded just the rivet sizes and somewhat of a comprehensive install PDF file

FrontFenderRivetSizes.JPG
 

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TMac99

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I have uploaded just the rivet sizes and somewhat of a comprehensive install PDF file

FrontFenderRivetSizes.JPG
DCBlake - Awesome writeup. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this - your efforts are very much appreciated. Now off to Harbor Freight to get my rivets and rivet gun.
 

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DCBlake

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DCBlake - Awesome writeup. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this - your efforts are very much appreciated. Now off to Harbor Freight to get my rivets and rivet gun.
Glad it will help. If you have questions just let us know.
 

KCwrangler

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TRS sent me 2 more pairs of lights. each with a differently set up modification to make them work correctly. They came in yesterday but everyone in the house has been sick as a dog. I'm hoping to test them tomorrow and send back the results so you guys with them can get your adapters!
Have you cleared the sickness yet?? Lol I want my sequential turn signals :)
 
 



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