Gaitero
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Caleb
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2020
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 4,018
- Reaction score
- 29,782
- Location
- Urbanna, VA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Honda Civic Si, 1995 Toyota T100, 70 Bronco
- Occupation
- marine mechanic/ electrician/ fabricator
I cringe at the thought of using anything that creates sparks while on a moving blanket. Them things ignite easily and are a bitch to put out- they keep relighting on their own. Learned that after almost setting a boat ablaze.General rule of thumb I have used is: adjustable uppers for setting pinion angle (driveshaft) and lowers for caster. IMO, with the stock driveshaft, I would do just lowers.
Metalcloak, Rock Krawler, JKS, Teraflex, Clayton, Rancho, and Synergy are all good brands that make adjustable lowers. You will need to free the brake line from the bracket on the control arm for pretty much all of them I believe.
If you score the top clamp with a cutoff wheel, you can pry it open pretty easy. Just be careful not to catch the brake line. Here's mine from when I installed my (fixed) JKS lowers:
I do like the JKS arms I'm running on my JL for the fact that they're 2" OD, .250" wall DOM (they are not the adjustable arms though, so do be aware of that). Super duper beefy and thick, not sure there's anyone else doing .250" wall DOM. Just note, with most aftermarket lowers you may have to grind a clearance notch in the top of the LCA axle bracket (just to the left of the brake line clamp in the pic above) to avoid the bracket hitting the bigger arm during full droop.
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