Jeep.com Lease Calc?

Salt1972

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I only drive about 6k miles per year and a lease seems like a good option based on the lease calc on Jeep.com. After spec'ing a Willys the way we want, the website says $349/mo (details below), but the dealers are NO WHERE close. Why would the online Jeep lease calc be that far off?

MSRP - $37,490
Destination - $1,495
Options - $8,285

Down - $0
Trade - $0
Dealer Discount - ~$3750 (assuming this is about -7% invoice, but haven't calculated exactly)

Cap Cost - $43,520
10k annual miles
36mo

$349/mo

Dealer is at $420 + tax??





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wrc777

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The online calculator uses the minimum money factor for that model which is pretty high on wranglers. The dealer can mark it up. I also noticed the Willys leases are cheaper online than the sport s. I assume residual is higher on the Willys but maybe that is a website error.
 

Impy5

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Residual on the Willy's is 77% this month for 3/36 with a MF of .00189 through CCAP. I'm at 4.5 under invoice with my local dealer on a pretty loaded Willy's and it comes out to $361 a month with nothing down except start up cost.
 
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Salt1972

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Residual on the Willy's is 77% this month for 3/36 with a MF of .00189 through CCAP. I'm at 4.5 under invoice with my local dealer on a pretty loaded Willy's and it comes out to $361 a month with nothing down except start up cost.
Thanks Impy. That's good info. Does that include the doc fees and/or taxes?

I built a quick spreadsheet (attached) - your residual and money factor info was hugely helpful.

2 More Questions-
1. Are we generally able to negotiate to the same -7% of invoice on lease purchases?
2. Not related to the this topic / thread - There's no option for proximity keyless entry. Why?

I attached the Lease Worksheet here in case it might be of value to anyone- these are not verified numbers, but based on information from this forum.
 

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ThirtyOne

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Remote proximity keyless entry is only available on trims based on Sahara or Rubicon. Willys is based on Sport S.
 

Impy5

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Thanks Impy. That's good info. Does that include the doc fees and/or taxes?

I built a quick spreadsheet (attached) - your residual and money factor info was hugely helpful.
Glad I could help! Doc fees are to be paid up front out of pocket, but it does include usage tax in CT at 6.35%. If you lucky enough to live in CT you get to pay sales/usage tax AND property tax based on the value of the vehicle every single year...
Yes you can negotiate the 7% on leases, how far you get will all depend on your dealer.
 

TopDown2020

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Residual on the Willy's is 77% this month for 3/36 with a MF of .00189 through CCAP. I'm at 4.5 under invoice with my local dealer on a pretty loaded Willy's and it comes out to $361 a month with nothing down except start up cost.

I wish my dealer here in TN would give me this deal. I would have already ordered.
 

stiks511

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Residual on the Willy's is 77% this month for 3/36 with a MF of .00189 through CCAP. I'm at 4.5 under invoice with my local dealer on a pretty loaded Willy's and it comes out to $361 a month with nothing down except start up cost.
good to know. I'm really thinking of ordering a willys instead of a rubicon - just need to get leather seats installed at the dealer as you can't order them. still a bit on the fence if i like the black wheels and m/t tires. what color did you get? some of the colors look off to me with the black grill. now just bummed the proximity keyless entry isn't available on the sport/willys.
 

fjrrider

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Let me start by saying, I'm one of those 'I'm always gonna have a car payment' kinda guys. I know others think this is one of the worst things you can do, but, I work for my money and I'm gonna spend it the way I want.

With my first Wrangler, I considered leasing as I have leased vehicles in the past and I had just come out of a lease.
I then started doing some math.
I looked at what a 3 yr lease monthly payment would be with $0 down.
I then looked at financing, also with $0 down, to see how long I would have to finance it to get to the point where, after 3 yrs (same term as the lease I was looking at), the amount owed = current value. I had to estimate the amount.
I ended up with a 72 month loan to get the same monthly payment as a 3 yr lease.
Had I leased, at the end of 36 months, I would have handed in the keys and had nothing.
Since I financed, at the end of 36 months, I was expecting to no longer be upside down. What I found was that I actually had some equity at the end of 36 months. Additionally, I didn't have to worry about mileage.
I kept it a few extra months, built up some additional equity and then traded in for a new one. I did another 72 month loan and, with $0 down, my payment actually went down. Even though the payment was less, I kept my automatic payment the same as what it was. I've kept this one for a little less than 5 years and I now have nearly $17K in equity.
Before pulling the trigger on the lease, do some math.
 

stiks511

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Let me start by saying, I'm one of those 'I'm always gonna have a car payment' kinda guys. I know others think this is one of the worst things you can do, but, I work for my money and I'm gonna spend it the way I want.

With my first Wrangler, I considered leasing as I have leased vehicles in the past and I had just come out of a lease.
I then started doing some math.
I looked at what a 3 yr lease monthly payment would be with $0 down.
I then looked at financing, also with $0 down, to see how long I would have to finance it to get to the point where, after 3 yrs (same term as the lease I was looking at), the amount owed = current value. I had to estimate the amount.
I ended up with a 72 month loan to get the same monthly payment as a 3 yr lease.
Had I leased, at the end of 36 months, I would have handed in the keys and had nothing.
Since I financed, at the end of 36 months, I was expecting to no longer be upside down. What I found was that I actually had some equity at the end of 36 months. Additionally, I didn't have to worry about mileage.
I kept it a few extra months, built up some additional equity and then traded in for a new one. I did another 72 month loan and, with $0 down, my payment actually went down. Even though the payment was less, I kept my automatic payment the same as what it was. I've kept this one for a little less than 5 years and I now have nearly $17K in equity.
Before pulling the trigger on the lease, do some math.
Hmmm. Interesting. I’m not opposed to buying if it worked it. But I'm having a hard time figuring out your formula where the payment stays around the same. The Msrp is 45885, the residual is 77% for a 36/10 lease. The purchase price before tax title and registration is 41795. Tax, title and registration in Ca is 4532. How do I figure out what you’re computing. Not sure rates on a 72 month loan right now for tier 1.
 

fjrrider

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Hmmm. Interesting. I’m not opposed to buying if it worked it. But I'm having a hard time figuring out your formula where the payment stays around the same. The Msrp is 45885, the residual is 77% for a 36/10 lease. The purchase price before tax title and registration is 41795. Tax, title and registration in Ca is 4532. How do I figure out what you’re computing. Not sure rates on a 72 month loan right now for tier 1.
Now that I think about it, it doesn't really pertain to today's market. Back when I was looking at my first one, 7% under invoice was unheard of so the cap cost was much higher. I think I was also looking at 15K mi instead of 10K.
Howzabout we just forget what I said :facepalm:
 

YYCSahara

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Leasing seems way more complex in USA. Up here in Canada the residual is set and dealer isn't allowed to touch it. They have nothing to do with the whole thing other than do the paperwork for the leasing company. We usually only have 1 choice of leasing companies too.
 

wrc777

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Leasing seems way more complex in USA. Up here in Canada the residual is set and dealer isn't allowed to touch it. They have nothing to do with the whole thing other than do the paperwork for the leasing company. We usually only have 1 choice of leasing companies too.
Dealers in the US can’t change residual. That comes from the leasing company.
 

Germansheperd

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I only drive about 6k miles per year and a lease seems like a good option based on the lease calc on Jeep.com. After spec'ing a Willys the way we want, the website says $349/mo (details below), but the dealers are NO WHERE close. Why would the online Jeep lease calc be that far off?

MSRP - $37,490
Destination - $1,495
Options - $8,285

Down - $0
Trade - $0
Dealer Discount - ~$3750 (assuming this is about -7% invoice, but haven't calculated exactly)

Cap Cost - $43,520
10k annual miles
36mo

$349/mo

Dealer is at $420 + tax??
Online calculator does not take into effect of rolling in your first months payment, taxes, doc fee, lease ac fee, license plates, title fees. So yes the ‘349’ payment in real life is $420 plus tax
 

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