Arc surge is not the cause for our particular issue on these axles and oil getting into the sensor is the primary failure mode. Of course, there's more than one way the sensor could fail. I could hit it with a hammer. It's easy not to speculate when every reported sensor that's failed is due to oil contamination. Those sensors without oil have not failed yet. This could easily be proven if I could get my hands on a couple of good sensors no one is using.
We've been dealing with this issue on a different thread(s) for 3 years now and it is definitely oil in the sensor and not bad solder joints. People have documented extensively what they are seeing and @chevymitchell came up with a potting thread using potting compound, not rtv.
I fixed your post.
I love the conversation but please - It is a tad disingenuous to say EVERY reported sensor failure has been diagnosed, let alone diagnosed as oil ingression on the PCB. Some guys saw the light come on, took it to the dealer and got the axle replaced. Sometimes twice. Inference to any given root cause is speculative at best.
I think we may be hard pressed to get sensors like that. I cant see any junk dealer letting someone cannibalize a D44 axle just for the sensor when they can sell the complete unit and make a lot more money.
Not sure of what other Dana applications may be using. It's a new axle for the JL, the JK used a mechanical switch if I remember correctly.
Has anyone done this? Have a friend in Colorado who has a business and has about 15 vehicles (trucks) does heavy maintenance all over with a lot of driving. He told me when discussing this thread that for almost 40 years he changed his differential fluid by draining about 30 percent of the fluid and adding kerosene. Then drive for a while until good and warm. Then drain immediately. Cleans everything out. These are heavy duty gas and diesel trucks 1/2 to 5 tons. Job site vehicles. He does this every time he changes oil. These differentials are upwards of 8000 dollars. He has never had any problems of any kind and yes there are some (most) 4wh dr. With electrical cylinoids etc. He is still working and doing his own maintenance.
Actually there is. The aftermarket jumped on this a long time ago. Personally I would only go this route after your warranty runs out.
True! But that is a bandaid or workaround rather than a full repair. And I do have one of those in my rear storage compartment, just in case. I was really referring to an aftermarket replacement for the sensor itself, for a full and proper repair. But functionally and practically, I do think that cable will do the job.
