Is there a turn-key 2 1/2" lift kit to run stock wheel 37's?

Clayton Off Road

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Thank you for that response. When tires rub control arms, is it only the Lower front or will they rub uppers also. I am asking because your entry kit includes upper not lower. Are upper control arms also adustable so they simply align by pulling in the opposite direction? So the question, with my larger backspace AEV wheel, maybe I should adjust castor with new uppers only?
Of course. The tires primarily rub on the front lower arms when using incorrect backspacing. Front uppers are not affected due to being inside the frame, but it is possible to rub rear uppers if you are running too large of a tire size for the amount of lift on your vehicle. The upper arms are adjustable and would be a more effective way of dialing in your caster angle, however even if you plan on running factory lowers you still would get the same amount of rubbing as the issue actually comes from the tire width and size itself.





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ale70

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I used the Rough Country 2.5" Spacer lift, which was cheap and perfect for my "beach only" location. I'd use the cash to upgrade wheels to 9" width to allow the 37" to sit properly.

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av8or

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I tried running stock wheels and failed. Too much rubbing with 12.5 inch wide tires. I have the mopar lift and went with a +10 offset to end the rubbing. Was on a jamboree last weekend and a guy with a mopar lift and 315 KO2s on stock wheels tore a sidewall on his sway bar link (that’s what he told me). Unless you’re ok with spacers, give up on the idea of keeping stock wheels. My .02 cents.
 

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Stock wheels are just fine. With a little fine tuning there will be zero problems.
 

MarkY3130

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I tried running stock wheels and failed. Too much rubbing with 12.5 inch wide tires. I have the mopar lift and went with a +10 offset to end the rubbing. Was on a jamboree last weekend and a guy with a mopar lift and 315 KO2s on stock wheels tore a sidewall on his sway bar link (that’s what he told me). Unless you’re ok with spacers, give up on the idea of keeping stock wheels. My .02 cents.
I had similar experience with the mopar simulated beadlocks which have a 5” backspace, or about 1.2” more clearance than stock wheels. The issue occurs at full stuff on one side of the front, with the tire at that location turned all the way in. It presses the sidewall into where the sway bar link attaches to the sway bar.

This was with the Metalcloak end link which is quite long and puts that connection point up pretty high. It may be possible that the shorter end link shown in the pictures by @OnlyOne above may clear the tire.

The trade off there compared to the MC kit is much less articulation (MC has 30” shocks), and with that you need longer links to keep your sway bar from flipping.

Ultimately I sold the mopar sim Beadlock wheels and went with something with less backspacing. No problems now.
 

Cleoncini

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Hi All,

Recently started tinkering with the idea of lifting my '18 JLR and am having trouble keeping up with the amount of kits on the market. It seems like a ton of kits have components that need to be replaced/ upgraded to make the kit better than tolerable (Steering stabilizers, track bars, etc) . One lift kit I was really looking for, was one that will allow me to run 37's on stock wheels with no spacers. Is there a kit out there that serves this purpose? Looking around keeping this kit around $1,500.

Thanks!
Short answer. No. Once you start moving around suspension pieces it just creates something else that needs to be addressed. Thats really accurate of anything Jeep related however. If you wanted to go 37s do a spacer lift or AAL flat fenders and you could tuck 37s on your JLR. A few people are running 37s with no lift on here. Personally, I would save and do the suspension, steering, driveshaft, gears, all at once.
 

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