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Interesting Mopar Lift Info

Shots

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Hmmm. I got the Dynatrac lift because it’s not too high and is claimed to have great ride and handling. Does it ride badly compared to stock?
Everything I read while researching lifts had Dynatrac rated the highest for comfort for kits that replaced both the springs and shocks. I couldn't find a single review where someone was unhappy with it. That says a lot, when you can't find any unhappy buyers. Usually you'll get at least a few.

It is amazing Mopar lift almost adding about 3" height, but the LCA is barely longer. That is inviting for troubles. Also the track bar is probably pushed to the side too.
To be clear, my lift isn't Mopar. Their LCA's may be a little longer than mine since they do provide more lift.

FWIW, I just have a simple 2" Daystar lift. It rides and handles exactly like stock. Aside from the increased height you can't tell it's been changed.. That's exactly what I was looking for, and don't need any increased off-road capability or load capacity or anything else. Stock works just fine for me, but I wanted it a little higher.
Anyway, the slightly longer LCA's (from my photo) kept the caster the same as stock after the 2" lift. I measured it before and after the lift and right on, just as it should be. I would hope Mopar's LCA's are slightly longer than mine so they adjust for the extra lift.
Also, any lift you add will shift the axle due to the change in the track bar angle. Mine shifted 1/8" as a result of a 2" lift. I did a lot of research on the topic, and the general consensus is that longer/adjustable track bars aren't needed until you start getting to 3"+ lifts. I had actually planned on changing mine, but after talking to alignment shops, experienced Jeepers, lift manufacturers, and a lot of online searches it was nearly unanimous saying it's not needed for 2". This was supported by the fact that Mopar doesn't adjust with their kit, and by driving mine after a small lift. If Mopar's kit gives you 3", as I've read it does, I'd change the track bars too.
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plex

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Everything I read while researching lifts had Dynatrac rated the highest for comfort for kits that replaced both the springs and shocks. I couldn't find a single review where someone was unhappy with it. That says a lot, when you can't find any unhappy buyers. Usually you'll get at least a few.

To be clear, my lift isn't Mopar. Their LCA's may be a little longer than mine since they do provide more lift.

FWIW, I just have a simple 2" Daystar lift. It rides and handles exactly like stock. Aside from the increased height you can't tell it's been changed.. That's exactly what I was looking for, and don't need any increased off-road capability or load capacity or anything else. Stock works just fine for me, but I wanted it a little higher.
Anyway, the slightly longer LCA's (from my photo) kept the caster the same as stock after the 2" lift. I measured it before and after the lift and right on, just as it should be. I would hope Mopar's LCA's are slightly longer than mine so they adjust for the extra lift.
Also, any lift you add will shift the axle due to the change in the track bar angle. Mine shifted 1/8" as a result of a 2" lift. I did a lot of research on the topic, and the general consensus is that longer/adjustable track bars aren't needed until you start getting to 3"+ lifts. I had actually planned on changing mine, but after talking to alignment shops, experienced Jeepers, lift manufacturers, and a lot of online searches it was nearly unanimous saying it's not needed for 2". This was supported by the fact that Mopar doesn't adjust with their kit, and by driving mine after a small lift. If Mopar's kit gives you 3", as I've read it does, I'd change the track bars too.
The angle of track bar is not an issue, it is the stock track bar is too weak to be "stretched" and "angled", adding to the already weak bushings. The stock track bar is a thin piece of hollow metal for "weight saving purpose".

I do agree 2" or less lift, you are probably fine with stock track bar if you are not into hard rock crawling. To me, an aftermarket solid track bar like Yeti or Teraflex is just an insurance plus they come with superior bushings.
 

Shots

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Yeah, I was just referring to geometry and keeping the tires centered under the Jeep. If you're doing any serious off-roading and/or adding bigger/heavier tires, adding heavier gear like steel bumpers, winches, racks, etc,.then the more robust your components the better.
 

dannko

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I also have the Dynatrac kit and KO2's in 315's, I'm adding the Rancho LCA drop brackets on Monday. After a ton of research, I'm hoping that's a better solution for smoothing out the choppy road feel.
ha, that's a great description, CHOPPY, that's what I feel like when driving with the wandering. So the caster is causing this? I just put on the Mopar kit and I either need to replace the LCA's with adjustable ones, or now I read about the Rancho geometry brackets, is that what you are talking about doing?
 

dannko

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Well, i've read a far amount about folks adding brackets to their Mopar lifts because their LCA's are still to short. If I was going that route I'd add adjustable.
After spending money on the Mopar kit though I can see where brackets are alluring as I don't want to replace new LCA's with new adjustable LCA's, but I want to do what's right. I only need to do the lower LCA's correct?
 

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Shots

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Yes you only need to change the lower control arms to correct the caster.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, or sound condescending so please don't take this wrong. "LCA" stands Lower Control Arm. I only mention this to help you while searching for parts. If you search for lower lca, you may limit your search results.

As for the choppy ride after a lift. There's no official cause/remedy but, the caster angle does seem to be the most common thing that I've heard.
 

Swanny297

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My reason for ordering the springs minus the shocks is to try and improve upon the lift by gaining a little more travel from the "kits" shocks. From what's been reported the travel is limited in the shocks...... Just experimenting and maybe save a few $'s. Most probably wouldn't bother, but always enjoy a project.
You will need longer shocks
 

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The Mopar Fox shocks are basically the Fox 2.5 performance shocks without the external reservoirs. I've been pretty happy with them. They don't seem to fade the way the factory shocks did on fast bumpy stuff. Considering the 2" shocks are about $170 ea, it doesn't seem unreasonable that the 2.5" shocks would be $1000 for 4... The 2.5 with the reservoirs are $1600 a pair...
 

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The reason for no shocks is the major complaint, other than short LCA's & no track bar, is the range of travel (short shocks). I will measure to see if I can use the Fox Shocks from a 3-4.5" lift. Worse case I might have to add 1/2" bump. On a 2dr the other issue might be Driveshaft angles at full drop, but wait for issues before addressing.
 

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The reason for no shocks is the major complaint, other than short LCA's & no track bar, is the range of travel (short shocks). I will measure to see if I can use the Fox Shocks from a 3-4.5" lift. Worse case I might have to add 1/2" bump. On a 2dr the other issue might be Driveshaft angles at full drop, but wait for issues before addressing.
@DeVoTee did you ever test out how long of a shock you can run with the Mopar springs? I like the spring rates for the Mopar springs, but prefer different shocks than what come in the lift. I would love to use the fox factory race shocks from the 3.5-4" lift, but they seem like they may be a tad long. However the ones for the 2-3" seem short.
 

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@DeVoTee did you ever test out how long of a shock you can run with the Mopar springs? I like the spring rates for the Mopar springs, but prefer different shocks than what come in the lift. I would love to use the fox factory race shocks from the 3.5-4" lift, but they seem like they may be a tad long. However the ones for the 2-3" seem short.
Just get the longest shock that will meet your compressed length requirement (should be about 18.5" if you used the mopar bump stops, but definitely double check) and add straps to limit droop if needed. On an expensive shock like that I would want to strap them anyway.
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