Installed Voswitch JL100 in my '21 JLUR

[jdsqrd]

A short thread on my challenges and triumphs of installing a Voswitch JL100 in my JLUR.

I had already installed a pair of KC Hilites LED Daylighters and a Quake fairlead light bar (which doesn't fit in the OEM steel bumper fairlead opening BTW). All three were powered by a rocker switch velcroed to my steering column because I didn't realize how convenient the auxiliary switch package could be and didn't get it. I want to install additional accessories and there are only so many rockers you can velcro to a steering column (I'm not ready to drill holes in dash panels yet) so I researched switch pod options.

The OEM auxiliary switches look the best but there are only four of them -- two are somewhat limited in capacity -- and anecdotally they are a bear to install.

The sPOD was highly recommended by the one friend I bothered to ask (thanks Nate). 6 or 8 switches and use relays to isolate the switching from the power (I like that idea) but at $100+ a switch it was out of the range I'm willing to spend (the velcro and rocker on my steering column was $11).

I saw Voswitch mentioned in several times in the What Did You Do To Your JL? thread. Like the "s" it could be had with 6 or 8 switches and it too uses relays. Best of all, the price is $260-$280 depending on options and which vendor you use. I decided to give it a try.

The following posts show some of the steps I went through to get the JL100 installed and operating in my Jeep.

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[Fuel Fire Desire]

I just did the same with mine, the 8 switch version. Great unit, but be aware, it’s sensitive to VHF radios. Not an issue if you’re running a low watt handheld, but anything over 10 watts and the relays spaz and chatter, even if the unit is switched off. I tried putting ferrite chokes on the input power line and output power line to the radio, but no luck. I’m installing a 100 amp normally closed relay to the power line to act as a kill switch so I can transmit on my VHF without my lights creating a seizure inducing light show.

I had thought about lining the control box in lead tape to create a faraday cage....but the kill switch is the only sure way to stop the issue.

a problem for maybe 10% of jeepers out there with a HAM license (GMRS uses UHF and doesn’t affect it, neither does my 90 watt HF radio), but it’s still something to be aware of.

I love that the rocker switches are labeled with text and pictures, and turn amber when on. The dimmer matches my factory dash lighting and color exactly. Looks very clean and professional when done.

The control box WILL sit on top of the brake lines coming out of the ABS module, but they added a rubber pad under the box where they make contact. Very well thought out, easy to install.

 

[jdsqrd]

I'm a cheap ass so I looked for deals on the Voswitch JL100. I didn't find many. Amazon is $279. I found it at BleepinJeep for $269 plus $6 shipping. But BleepinJeep also had a pretty detailed install video so I went with them. The shipment arrived two days later which was nice.

The Voswitch JL100 comes with a replacement tray for the dash. The stock rubber mat in the tray is removed and the Voswitch tray fits inside it, held down by two screws in existing holes (no drilling or modifications required). I installed this for the three ball mounts -- but I don't intend to use them for the switch panel. Instead I planned to use a CMM Pillar Base Ball Mount on the driver's side grab handle.

The tray that comes with the switch kit.

The CMM ball mount and a RAM double socket swivel arm.

.

 

[jdsqrd]

The first issue I ran into was what is under my hood doesn't match what the instructions or the BleepinJeep video show. Where the relay unit is supposed to go on the driver's side of the engine compartment was blocked by a reservoir for the Power Pack Unit. I had to look this up in the manual and there really isn't much about it in there. Not that it matters because it was in the way.

I read a review on the Voswitch on Amazon that mentioned a similar problem and that person "fixed" it by installing the relay box on the passenger side over the battery. That's the route I took. However, that wasn't straightforward either. The battery is a little too tall so some spacers were needed to raise the relays. I also swapped out two of the bolts that attached the relay box to the relay mounting bracket to flat head screws -- that gave an additional 1/8" of clearance over the battery.

Alternate location

Swapped the original bolts for 8-32 truss head screws (right side) on bottom of relay box to gain a little clearance

Spacers (oversized nuts) to raise mounting bracket about 1/4" on the left, around 7/16" on the right.

Of course spacers means longer bolts are needed

 

[jdsqrd]

Things went more smoothly after getting the relay box mounted. When I installed my Daylighters I'd run the switch wires through the windshield wiper channel from the battery to the driver's side then into the cab through a hole I drilled through the 2" grommet in the footwell that only we weenie automatic drivers have available. Since I would be terminating those wires at the relay box I didn't need them routed into the cab anymore. I pulled those wires back but first attached a couple of strings to them to use to pull 1) the switch controller wire for the relays, and 2) the A-pillar lights I plan on installing later this year.

The strings pulled through to passenger side with the old wire. The new switch controller is tied to the end (bottom of photo)

View from the driver's side with the two pull strings in the windshield wiper channel.

New switch controller wire pulled through to driver's side. The tied off string is for future use.

 

[jdsqrd]

Per a recommendation in the instructions I connected the relay box to the fuse box using the kit's "piggyback" fuse tap. This connection allows the system to shut off before running down the battery (if you configure it that way). I saw another post in these forums that said if this wire isn't connected the head unit may act a little wonky.

 

[jdsqrd]

After buttoning up the fuse box it was time to get the switch control wire into the cab. I didn't want to use the grommet in the firewall that I'd previously used because that didn't give me a simple path to the grab handle mount. Following the BleepinJeep tutorial video I removed the driver's side corner cowl, the Freedom Panels, and then unbolted the windshield. By swinging the windshield forward a few inches I was able to push the switch control wire under the windshield and onto the dash. There was quite a bit of control wire left over so I coiled it up with a wire tie and left it inside the corner cowl area in case I ever decide to move the switch panel.

 

[jdsqrd]

With the switch controller cable inside the cab, I bolted the windshield back into place, put the Freedom Panels back on, and reinstalled the corner cowl piece. I moved on to finishing the wiring.

Since my install put the relay panel on the passenger side I had a lot of spare wire. For the positive battery connection I routed it between the battery and the fuse box and attached it to an empty post on the battery. I coiled the excess wire under the relay box mounting bracket and wire tied it to the bracket. I considered cutting it to a shorter length but decided to leave it intact partly in case I ever want to relocate it, mostly because it's a big wire and I don't have a crimper big enough to put a new lug on it.

The negative wire I did cut and put a new terminal on because it's a much smaller wire (16 gauge I think). I routed it under the relay box bracket and around the battery, attaching it to an empty bolt on the negative post.

For the KCs and Quake light circuit I cut away the switch half of the wiring harness leaving only the red & black wires that go to the lights. I put a ring terminal on the black then attached it to the ground block next to the battery. The red wire I fed through one of the relay box glans and crimped a spade connector onto it (included with the kit). I landed the spade connector on one of the relays.

I connected the switch controller cable to the relay box then buttoned up the box.

Wiring terminated. The wire with the braided cover coming from the right side of the positive is for the relay box. The black wire on the right side of the relay box is the negative going to the negative post of the battery. The red wire at the bottom of the photo is for the KC Daylighter circuit.

Closed up

 

[jdsqrd]

All that was left was connecting the switch controller cable to the switch panel and mounting the panel. As I mentioned in the first post, I got this kit with the ball mounts in the dash tray to use for something else (iPhone, iPad, GoPro, etc.) but not for the switch panel. I connected the controller cable to the panel and put that on a mounting arm connected to the driver's grab handle. I was pleased that on the first try the panel powered up and didn't release any of its magic smoke. The KCs even turned on/off the way they are supposed to.

I added the stickers to cover the individual switches but haven't yet programmed the switch for anything other that on or off (there are options such as strobe) nor have I tinkered with changing the backlight color -- those can wait for another time. All in all I'm satisfied with how this project turned out. If not for the conflict with the PPU reservoir requiring a parts run I'm sure I could have knocked this out in 90 minutes or so.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

Power pack reservoir? What’s that for?


Here’s my solution to using the Voswitch to control the winch. 500 amp relay, input from a 12” positive cable, output to the factory winch wire harness, control ground directly to battery negative, and control power coming directly from the Voswitch unit fused with a 15 amp fuse and 14 AWG wire.

 

[ALRUI]

Power pack reservoir? What’s that for?


Here’s my solution to using the Voswitch to control the winch. 500 amp relay, input from a 12” positive cable, output to the factory winch wire harness, control ground directly to battery negative, and control power coming directly from the Voswitch unit fused with a 15 amp fuse and 14 AWG wire.

What brand relay are you running there?
Thanks
ALR

 

[XJfanatic]

I have been eyeing the jl300. Simply because my Sirius onyx is mounted right where the JL100 is intended to mount. I like your placement though.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

What brand relay are you running there?
Thanks
ALR

It was on Amazon for like $30. Not sure. I think it was marketed towards marine.

 

[ALRUI]

It was on Amazon for like $30. Not sure. I think it was marketed towards marine.

Blue Sea perhaps....

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