Installed: Rancho 2" Sport System for Rubicon

[Ninazu]

Today I got the boxes for the 2" Rancho Sport System for Rubicon JL's. Part number: RS66122BR5

I plan on putting it on this weekend.
I will try to remember to take measurements at all four corners before and after. This should be interesting as I am keeping stock wheels / tires for now.

For now, here is a before picture from this weekend.

More later!

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[Thrive]

Awesome! I’m about to order that exact kit for a Sahara so really looking forward to install.
Did you get geo correction brackets for front lower control arms?

 

[Ninazu]

Awesome! I’m about to order that exact kit for a Sahara so really looking forward to install.
Did you get geo correction brackets for front lower control arms?

I did not, I am going to try without it.
Plus I am thinking of getting the Metalcloak lower front arms fairly soon.

 

[Ninazu]

Measurements before the lift. First number is ground to bottom of outer lip of fender measured across the center of the wheel. Second number is center of tire to the inner top of the fender. Will re-measure after lift.
LF 39 1/8" 7 1/18"
RF 39 1/8" 7 1/18"
LR 38 5/8" 7 1/2"
RR 38 5/8" 7 1/2"

Later i found out that I shroud measure from the center of the wheel, oh-well. At least I can get that additional measurement after the lift is installed.
Installing in the morning (of the 28th).

 

[Ninazu]

ok, finished!

Before & After

 

[Ninazu]

Some other random pictures:
Stock vs Rancho from springs

 

[Ninazu]

Note on this electrical connector:
You need to first pull the grey tab out (away from where the plug is connected) just a small bit. Then you need to squeeze it down as you squeeze the plug to remove it.
Pictures of the grey tab in locked position, verses slightly pulled out: (top is out, bottom is in and locked)

 

[Ninazu]

Final measurements. Ground to bottom of fender, center wheel to bottom of fender, top of tire to inner top of fender. Center of wheel to fender is based on my terrible estimate of the center of the wheel

DF 41 1/2" 26" 9 1/2"
PF 41 3/8" 26" 9 1/2"
PR 41 1/2" 26" 10 1/2"
DR 41 1/2" 26" 10 1/2"

 

[Ninazu]

Some notes on the installation / instructions.

In the parts list it shows part "RS176905 E-Brake Brkt" as having a count of 2. But there is only 1 shipped. Don't Panic! there is supposed to only be one.

After step 14 on page 10 of the (rear) SHOCK ABSORBER &COIL SPRING REMOVAL step, it gives a warning of do not allow the "front" axle to hang by any hoses, they of course mean the rear axle.

The front brake line clamps on the frame are just "bent upwards" to allow for the additional length needed. New brackets would have been appreciated, even if the bend method appears to be just fine.

Instructions state to loosen control arms and even disconnect the front drive shaft to provide more flexibility to allow the axle to drop enough to make spring installation easy. With 2 people working this install, I found none of that necessary. With a bit of weight on the axle, and just hand compression of the springs, they went in just fine with out loosening those items.
With that said I would think that removing the bolt for the track bars is essential. This really made the difference in getting the axle low enough, especially the passenger side in the front.

There are several tasks, like removing the e-brake lines from the axle tubes, where having a 2nd person makes things a lot easier and a lot faster.
With 2 people working on this, it took us 5 hours.

 

[Thrive]

Thanks for the tips. Looks like it gave you about 2” or darn near close right? That’s on a Rubicon so on my Sahara I’m guessing 2.5 or almost 3”

 

[Trauma PA]

ok, finished!

Before & After

I think your lifted Jeep looks great! How does it drive compared to stock? Any plans for bigger tires?

 

[Ninazu]

Thanks for the tips. Looks like it gave you about 2” or darn near close right? That’s on a Rubicon so on my Sahara I’m guessing 2.5 or almost 3”

Yep, about 2" in the front and 3" in the back, which seems odd.
I wonder how it will react when I get a winch for the front? (Synthetic rope to keep the weight down)

 

[Ninazu]

I think your lifted Jeep looks great! How does it drive compared to stock? Any plans for bigger tires?

Thanks!

So far I have had it up to 60 with no issues, but only have driven 15 or so miles. It seems to drive just like stock and I love the new shocks.
I have several speed bumps in the parking lot at work, so I will give an update on that.

No new wheels / tires yet.I only have 2400 miles on these ones so will probably wait until I need new tires.

 

[TTEChris]

Some notes on the installation / instructions.

In the parts list it shows part "RS176905 E-Brake Brkt" as having a count of 2. But there is only 1 shipped. Don't Panic! there is supposed to only be one.

After step 14 on page 10 of the (rear) SHOCK ABSORBER &COIL SPRING REMOVAL step, it gives a warning of do not allow the "front" axle to hang by any hoses, they of course mean the rear axle.

The front brake line clamps on the frame are just "bent upwards" to allow for the additional length needed. New brackets would have been appreciated, even if the bend method appears to be just fine.

Instructions state to loosen control arms and even disconnect the front drive shaft to provide more flexibility to allow the axle to drop enough to make spring installation easy. With 2 people working this install, I found none of that necessary. With a bit of weight on the axle, and just hand compression of the springs, they went in just fine with out loosening those items.
With that said I would think that removing the bolt for the track bars is essential. This really made the difference in getting the axle low enough, especially the passenger side in the front.

There are several tasks, like removing the e-brake lines from the axle tubes, where having a 2nd person makes things a lot easier and a lot faster.
With 2 people working on this, it took us 5 hours.

Looks great!
I have not found a need to disconnect the driveshaft on any of the smaller lifts that I've installed.
I would however loosen all the control arm bolts while in the air. Not for making the spring easier to get out, but so that the bushings are not binding when at rest in their new height/position. Same goes with the track bar(I always remove one end prior to jacking it up, but both ends should be loosened and tightened when on the ground at the new ride height. )
This can always be done after the lift install, but it's easier to get to some of the bolts with the Jeep in the air.

 

[Ninazu]

Looks great!
I would however loosen all the control arm bolts while in the air. Not for making the spring easier to get out, but so that the bushings are not binding when at rest in their new height/position.

Ah! that makes sense!
Thanks for the information

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