Installed: 37s with NO LIFT on JLUR

makumozosd

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I've been rocking this setup for several months now and couldn't be happier. The torque from the 2.0T handles the 37s without breaking a sweat. Why no lift? Simple; I wanted to keep suspension geometry as close to factory as possible while still being able to swallow 37s. You NEED 37s, even 35s look puny on JLs IMO. I'm not rock crawling so 100% clearance at MAX articulation was not the focus. If I'm able to wheel mild and moderate trails without issues I'm good. This setup does exactly that. The icing on the cake is that "low and wide" stance you get with no lift. Its all personal preference guys! Its all about proper wheel offset/backspacing + tire selection for clearance. The point is you can run 37s (not just any 37 setup though) on a stock JLUR without too much fuss.

- 37s BFG KO2s
- 17x9 Fuel Zephyr -12mm
- Stock Suspension
- Cavfab spare delete
- Rockhard Stubby front with Squadron Pros
- Dynomax muffler delete
- Alienshade

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Dkretden

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I’m glad that you built the Jeep exactly like you want it. Well done.

to me personally, the 37s look too big (is there such a thing? LOL). But who the hell cares? It’s your Jeep. You built it. It drives like you want it. It functions perfectly on the trails you wan to drive on. It’s perfect for you in every way. Kudos to you! Drive it with pride.
 

MarkY3130

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You must rub the back of the rear tire in the well like 200 times a day. I have a 3.5” lift and would hit that thing daily driving before I went to aftermarket wheel well liners.

Glad what you have works for you. Wouldn’t work for my needs.
 

Rubi-Zero

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You must rub the back of the rear tire in the well like 200 times a day. I have a 3.5” lift and would hit that thing daily driving before I went to aftermarket wheel well liners.

Glad what you have works for you. Wouldn’t work for my needs.
He isn’t running a spare, so he isn’t going to rub. I ran 37”s at stock height for a couple of weeks until my lift came, and I never touched the rear wheel well, because I didn’t have the spare mounted like him. I drove it all over town like that, even with passengers in the back, and it never scrubbed the liner.
Once I mounted the carrier and put my 37” spare on, it would rub going over dips and transition sections.
 

JtwJL

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Looks good, if I were going this route I still would personally look into AAD high line fender brace here, maintain the geometry, yet, providing abit more clearance for the peace of mind.
 
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makumozosd

makumozosd

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You must rub the back of the rear tire in the well like 200 times a day. I have a 3.5” lift and would hit that thing daily driving before I went to aftermarket wheel well liners.

Glad what you have works for you. Wouldn’t work for my needs.
This is my point; not all 37" setups can do this. Fractions of inches count here. I see you're running Mopars + Patagonia M/Ts. Mopars run a far less aggressive offset which means they rotate closer to the body AND those M/Ts have a larger OD than my BFG A/Ts further creating clearance issues. Those two factors combined with your heavy rear spare leveraging your rear suspension make the difference here.

Question, how much bumpstop have you added?
Nada, 100% stock.

He isn’t running a spare, so he isn’t going to rub. I ran 37”s at stock height for a couple of weeks until my lift came, and I never touched the rear wheel well, because I didn’t have the spare mounted like him. I drove it all over town like that, even with passengers in the back, and it never scrubbed the liner.
Once I mounted the carrier and put my 37” spare on, it would rub going over dips and transition sections.
Bingo! The spare tire + muffler delete is part of the secret sauce here for rear clearance. Aside from the free ~1/2" "lift" you get by taking the weight off the rear bumper you have less suspension articulation in the rear due to reduced leverage at the fulcrum point. This combined with the aggressive offset wheels and smallish 37s = no rubbing in most situations.

Looks good, if I were going this route I still would personally look into AAD high line fender brace here, maintain the geometry, yet, providing abit more clearance for the peace of mind.
I agree, I love the AAL kit and it will likely be added in the future. I am not saying my current setup would not run in all situations - it WOULD rub at max articulation I'm sure of it. I think the solution to this could simply be fender liners, not suspension lift - the AAL kit in the front and rear could make it all work.

How tall is it with the 37's and no lift?
No idea
 

MarkY3130

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This is my point; not all 37" setups can do this. Fractions of inches count here. I see you're running Mopars + Patagonia M/Ts. Mopars run a far less aggressive offset which means they rotate closer to the body AND those M/Ts have a larger OD than my BFG A/Ts further creating clearance issues. Those two factors combined with your heavy rear spare leveraging your rear suspension make the difference here.



Nada, 100% stock.



Bingo! The spare tire + muffler delete is part of the secret sauce here for rear clearance. Aside from the free ~1/2" "lift" you get by taking the weight off the rear bumper you have less suspension articulation in the rear due to reduced leverage at the fulcrum point. This combined with the aggressive offset wheels and smallish 37s = no rubbing in most situations.



I agree, I love the AAL kit and it will likely be added in the future. I am not saying my current setup would not run in all situations - it WOULD rub at max articulation I'm sure of it. I think the solution to this could simply be fender liners, not suspension lift - the AAL kit in the front and rear could make it all work.

No idea
I can see how not having a spare will reduce how much your rear suspension travels when hitting bumps and stuff.

Clearly a larger tire, like you claim mine is, would rub easier. Haven’t checked the tire sizes, sure you are right.

I don’t buy for a second that the wheels have anything to do with rubbing in the rear pinch seam. You’d have to move the wheel out like 6” to clear that seam.

You are crazy not extending your bump stop. Suspension height is irrelevant here. Bump stop is determined by tire size. If you flex your suspension it will rub (in many places) you should at a minimum address that.

Again, glad you are happy and that it works for you. That’s all that matters. Our builds don’t have to be the same. They are clearly set up for different uses.
 

ale70

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I feel like numerous members have posted info, examples and experiences with 37's and no lift?

But hey in other breaking news, the sky is blue and water is wet.
Yes!
 

HeavyUser

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Totally off topic here, but I've always wondered this... What is the appeal of buying a JLUR as you have no intentions of doing any hard offroading?

I'm not knocking your decision in anyway just really curious.
 

scrape

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Totally off topic here, but I've always wondered this... What is the appeal of buying a JLUR as you have no intentions of doing any hard offroading?

I'm not knocking your decision in anyway just really curious.
The base model is probably a better platform for light wheeling where you can keep it mostly stock, and hard wheeling where you end up replacing everything anyway. Rubi occupies a nice mid-range where you will keep most of the stock stuff and not beat on it too hard. But everyone has a different opinion on what hard wheeling is. I like to prerun the KOH course because they change it every year. And even with 35s I wouldn't put the stock axles, driveshafts, and suspension/steering arms through that. And more people than you think are dealing with budgets that will allow them to start with a Rubi just because, even though they will replace all the parts.
 

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