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Install XR fender flares

brewski

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I ordered the XR fender flares a while ago and they arrived today. Took me about 1hr 20min to do and that was figuring out what is needed and taking all the pics to do this write up. I did it during my lunch break (was working at home). I would guess most people could do this in an hour or less.
One thing I was surprised by is each fender requires drilling 3 additional holes, but this is into plastic so it is easy.

IMG_0237.jpg



Here is what I did and what I used:

Tools:
- Drill​
- 1/8 & 1/4 inch drill bits (3mm & 6mm)​
- Plastic rivet tool (this is the one I thought looked good and it worked well for me, Amazon)​
- 6 x 30mm plastic rivets (Amazon ones I thought looked good and happy with how they performed)​
- Trim tool, christmas tree tool or small screw driver to remove drilled out rivets​
- Angled cutters or knife. I have a pair of cutters that are straight bladed and they work great for this or zipties when you're snipping up against a surface. Highly recommend a set if you don't have one already.​

Parts: I'd recommend talking to Benny @AllMoparParts.com, for OEM parts. Great prices and customer service.
- XR rubicon fender flares (set of 4 - PN: JLRECONFLAREEXT)
68536652AA (front right)​
68536653AA (front left)​
68536654AA (rear right)​
68536655AA (rear left)​

How they are packaged. My fronts were a little twisted when installing but they worked themselves out ok. If yours are really bad you could soften with a little heat from a heatgun to help form them as needed. Just be careful to not over heat them.
IMG_0205.jpg


IMG_0206.jpg


A quick how to use these rivets, yeah its basic, but if someone hasn't before it lets them see what is done before they have parts in hand to figure it out.
rivettool.jpg


Because of the loose fit, I had to put them in the gun. Push the gun firmly against the surface (perpendicular to surface) and then squeeze the handle. I found for this gun, rivets and application I had to reset and squeeze again because the pull wasn't long enough.
IMG_0216.jpg


Rear Install
I started in the rear. Clean the area you're doing the install and dry.
Drill out the 5 existing rivets that need to be removed with 1/8in drill bit. Red arrows show which.
rear01.jpg


Pull the rivets out of the fender. I used this tool, but a trim tool or small screw driver will work. Do your best to not scratch the fenders, I didn't scratch mine but I think they look like they would scratch easy.
rear02.jpg


IMG_0212.jpg


A note about drilling out the rivets.
The fenders (F & R) are hollow and I think I found all my rivet tips in the driveway with a little shaking of the fender and liner. If I missed any I'm sure they will shake themselves out in a short while. If you're concerned by this, you can pull back the fender liner to pull any that don't immediately fall out, but I wouldn't worry. You remove the rivet and it is just a 1/4in piece of the rivet head that is left which you've mostly drilled away already.​


Loosely install the fender flare. I did this by pulling the rivet until i felt a hair of tension. This makes it tight enough to hold, but not so tight that you can't move it. I put in all rivets of existing holes in. This allowed me to move it around a little to position it exactly where I want. They have quite a bit of play between the fender flare and the rivet size so I will see how this plays out when they get knocked around offroading. But on the fender flare the existing holes are all larger than the 3 new holes are which are a snug fit for the rivets. I think the 3 new holes will really help hold it in position.
rear03.jpg


Once fender flare is in position tighten the rivets down until the stem snaps off. For me most break with part of the shaft sticking out. I waited to trim these until I was done installing the 3 new holes and rivets.

Drill pilot hole w/ 1/8in drill bit in center of the 3 holes on the fender. Then chase it with a 1/4in drill bit making sure both times you are going in perpendicular to the surface. I have a bit of experience with this stuff and didn't use a center punch, if you are feeling nervous a center punch can be helpful to prevent drill bit walk. With soft plastic like this I just push into it hard and do full speed and don't get walking... I use a center punch with metal.
rear04.jpg


Trim the stems up to make them look nice. I used straight bladed cutters, but a knife or other such tools would all work fine.

A note about drilling with fender flare installed:
At first I thought of installing the fender flare with a couple sacrificial rivets to be removed and then drilling the holes. I don't think this is a good idea because there is nothing holding the fender and fender liner together to get those holes aligned. Also if the fender flare is installed you're not going to miss your mark. And lastly if the fender flare is tight against the fender, I do see any issue the fender bulging or something causing a fitment issue. I think there are many more fitment issue potentials drilling the holes w/o the fender flare installed.​



Front Fender liners
You'll need to turn your wheel a little to get access to the rear couple rivets.
IMG_0234.jpg


Drill out and remove the 6 stock rivets (red arrows). The lower most one is left in place.
front01.jpg


As I did with the rear I recommend loosely setting the fender flare in place with partial pull on rivets to get the alignment where you like and then tightening rivets until the stems snap off.
Drill the 3 new holes as required like with the rear, 1/8 drill bit for pilot and 1/4in chase. Be precise and don't round out the hole because that will make for a loose rivet fitment.
front02.jpg



Repeat on both sides and your done. Here are some before and after pics to show coverage. I'm running 17x8.5 w/ 0 offset, or 4.75in backspace Method 701s for reference and Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x12.5-17 which have only about 1000 miles on them so far
Before:
IMG_0208.jpg


After: Wheel is turned a little to the right (passenger) side here and not perfectly straight.
IMG_0231.jpg



here is the splash up on the stock fenders. After I drive in some rain I’ll report if I see rooster tails or not and hopefully a reduce splash up. But the shape of the flare is thin so not much surface for dirt to stick to.
AA0D4AC7-32CC-47FA-BCCF-DF2BF4D6C574.jpeg


B42E4C21-5473-4F24-9D8C-3558D361B0F8.jpeg


Update after some rain driving.
I don’t see the rooster tails coming off the front tires. There may still be some but is small enough that I’m not seeing them while driving. Clearly there is some water coming in front and over the flare on the front and some rear kick up onto the front fender. Rear flare looks like it is doing about the same, clearly an improvement with some kick up front and rear of the fender flare.

D8072B17-B8CC-4F2C-A85A-D39ED96B29C6.jpeg

D69908CC-8DA2-49C3-9751-0DF404A74C6D.jpeg




 
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CarbonSteel

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@brewski - thanks for this. Mine will be here Friday and this will help with the install this weekend.
 
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brewski

brewski

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Great write up Jack!
Thank you for your patience in waiting for these parts.

- Benny
Frankly I was surprised it wasn’t longer. They shipped about 1 month later than initially estimated. During this supply chain disaster we’re currently living in I’m seeing some crazy long lead times in all industries. It also doesn’t help I live on the opposite side of the country so shipping is never quick.
 

Chile1

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great write-up. I should be getting the XR Fender Flares i ordered back in late Dec sometime this week. Looking forward to the project following your detailed guidelines.

Cheers.... :beer:
 

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brewski

brewski

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@CarbonSteel & @Chile1 look forward to seeing pics. It’s easier than I expect. A lot of times these things can look easy and end up being really finicky.
I was not expecting to have to drill new holes but I think those will make for a more secure part.
 
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brewski

brewski

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i have the Weathertech mud flaps on my Jeep. Hopefully i can still install these XR Fender Flares. i'll report back to share how they turned out..

1646885185749.png
On the front you might have to trim those down. I’d trim the weathertech to fit than shorten or trim the OEM part.
rears should be fine since they’re attached to the bumper.

I have rear Rokblokz mudflaps I need to install. I use them to prevent my trailer from getting real bad; especially if you ever go thru a open range area.
 
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CarbonSteel

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@CarbonSteel & @Chile1 look forward to seeing pics. It’s easier than I expect. A lot of times these things can look easy and end up being really finicky.
I was not expecting to have to drill new holes but I think those will make for a more secure part.
I had read that additional holes were needed. I have the rivet tool, rivets, and trim tool--just waiting on the extensions to show up.
 

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CarbonSteel

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Mine came in today--ordered on 26 December 2021. They were in a long box with plenty of room--3 loose and 1 in the plastic wrapper so no twists like @brewski had. I miscounted on the number of rivets needed, but the remainder will be here tomorrow. Now if it warms up on Sunday, I have a few weekend projects:

XR Fender Extensions
Auxiliary Battery Replacement
Springtail Tailgate Table Installation

20220311_162006.jpg
 
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brewski

brewski

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Mine came in today--yada yada yada, Now if it warms up on Sunday, I have a few weekend
projects:

XR Fender Extensions
Auxiliary Battery Replacement
Springtail Tailgate Table Installation
mine did as well.......ad like Grinch, hoping for warm weather over the weekend....🥶
🥶🥶
I completely lucked out with my delivery. Came on a nice sunny warm day (high of 50ish) when I live in the PNW and usually FedEx delivers around 5-6pm, but that day they came at 12:30. I think they were also a day early. That is why I took a little long lunch to do them. I was very excited. Also I shortened the quotes to keep the stuff I was replying too. Good luck with the projects @CarbonSteel
 
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brewski

brewski

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Any chance of you selling your old fenders?
I think you're confused. These rivet onto the "old" fenders. The only old parts are the rivets that have been drilled out and are no good anymore.
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