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Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428

Varilux

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Finally tracked down a set of bumper brackets (part 82215428) to install some front lights. Although the install isn't difficult, there were a few issues with the supplied instructions and the kit, so I thought I'd post a few comments and pics...

After removing the grille and the plastic trim that covers the gap between the bumper and the body, you have access to the holes to which the brackets are supposed to mount (each bracket has two mounting bolts). This is where the first issue is encountered. The instructions indicate the holes should be enlarged with a 10mm drill bit. Then there is a collared sleeve which is supposed to be expanded within the hole to create a threaded mounting point for the bolt.
tumblr_pl8q6j98Qn1tkp167o1_1280.jpg

The idea is to insert the sleeve into the hole you've expanded with the drill bit (and you really do need a 10mm drill bit, because 3/8" is too small and 7/16" is a bit large). There is an extra bolt and nut supplied, and you are supposed to thread the bolt through the nut and into the sleeve. As you continue to tighten the bolt (with the sleeve in the hole), the sleeve will begin to crush- expanding it to be permanently positioned in the hole. Then you take the extra bolt and nut out and you have a mounting point for the bracket bolts.
tumblr_pl8q6j98Qn1tkp167o2_1280.jpg

The problem (at least in my kit) is the nut was too big for the bolt- making it impossible to crush/expand the sleeve. Fortunately, like most of us I have a huge collection of miscellaneous nuts- and one of them was the correct size. The pic above shows the sleeve expanded into the back hole, along with a non-crushed sleeve, the bolt with my extra nut and the incorrect-sized nut supplied with the kit. Once I had the top sleeves mounted, I bolted them down and quickly decided I would NOT be drilling out the side holes- instead, I'll be using 5/16" rivets. Unless you plan to use the brackets as tow hooks (which I don't :^), there is no need to drill out the side mounting points. The only downside being- if I ever want to remove the brackets, I'll need to drill out the aluminum rivets.
tumblr_pl8q6j98Qn1tkp167o7_1280.jpg

The pic above shows the brackets in place secured by only the top bolts. The yellow area shows the side mounting point where the rivets will go. At this point, I read ahead in the directions and noticed that Jeep's engineers apparently want you to discard the trim piece that fills the fender/body gap- or at the very least cut the back portion of the trim piece off! Just looking at how the brackets are set up, it becomes obvious that you do NOT need to discard- or even cut the back off- the trim piece. All you need to do is insert the brackets through the trim piece BEFORE attaching it to the mounting points.
tumblr_pl8q6j98Qn1tkp167o4_1280.jpg

If (like any rational person) you decide to retain the trim piece, the instructions do provide a template to create holes in the piece for the trim to go through. The template works for the passenger side hole, but- as I discovered- it is incorrect for the driver side hole...
tumblr_pl8q6j98Qn1tkp167o6_1280.jpg

The yellow arrow shows where the driver side hole needs to be adjusted. Basically, you can still use the template, but move the rectangular opening in it towards the circular well that houses the round retaining clip. The edge of the hole needs to be about 1/8" from the hole (i.e., you need to move it over about 1/2" to 5/8" from where they tell you to put it). If you don't, the trim piece will not fit over the brackets. I figured it would be a lot easier to pre-install the wiring for my lights.
tumblr_pl8sa0rMxv1tkp167o1_1280.jpg

BTW, according to my voltmeter, the top of the mounting bolt cannot be used as a grounding point (as was my original plan). The only way to ground to the bracket mount is to touch the sleeve itself (which would require you to put the ground between the bracket and the mounting surface). So, I decided to ground to the radiator support. The yellow arrow shows a factory wiring connection point you'll need to take out of the mounting hole on the passenger side. The red arrow is where I grounded.
tumblr_pl8q6j98Qn1tkp167o8_1280.jpg

After enlarging the driver's side hole, I was able to bolt down the brackets using the top bolts (it's easy to access the bolts with your ratchet- even with the trim piece in place). Although the brackets feel very solid as is, I'll be putting in the rivets once I've reinserted all the hold down pins to the trim piece and reinstalled the grill (want to install the rivets last, since I can't take the brackets back off without drilling them out once I do). If I have to, I'll remove the skirt to access the sides of the brackets, but it looks like I'll be able to reach my riveter to where it needs to go without doing so. Now it's time to watch some football! Hopefully, I'll be able to post some pics of installed lights tomorrow (looking forward to using one of those factory AUX switches)!

Overall, the kit isn't all that bad, but considering you pay $138 at the dealer (I've seen it for $83 online), it seems to me they should have put more thought into it. At the very least, the supplied instructions leave a lot to be desired.
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Diesel550

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Thanks for taking the time to post. Sounds like it was a headache to install.
Lucky for me I have a fabrication shop right down the road. I just show up with my jeep, tell em what i want and they make a bracket or custom weld.
Powder coating shop down the road as well to match paint.
Spoiled lol
 
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Varilux

Varilux

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Overnight, I thought better of riveting the sides of the brackets, because I plan on keeping this Jeep for a number of years, and it's not unlikely that I'll eventually swap out the front bumper. So, I drilled out the side holes and installed the crush sleeves. If you want to keep the trim piece intact, you have to reach up through the bottom to tighten the side bolts. The driver's side isn't all that difficult- but the passenger side involves shoving your arm through some pretty tight places. Nevertheless, I got it all tightened down and retained my full trim piece- so I'm happy.
tumblr_plajpjvYcb1tkp167o1_1280.jpg

Here's the base of the light mount installed- posting it to point out there's not a lot of clearance if you are mounting lights with any kind of depth to them...
tumblr_plajlo5HQ51tkp167o5_1280.jpg

Indeed, I had to modify my lights (Auxbeam 7" round) by grinding down two of the fins in the back about 1/2". I put a rubber sticky pad between the grille and light to keep the light from beating up the finish of the grille (more on the pads later- they're life savers). There's about 1/16" clearance between the back of the fin and the grille, and I mounted the lights level with the ground- so they shouldn't ever need to be tilted any higher.
tumblr_plajlo5HQ51tkp167o4_1280.jpg

Here's the lights wired and installed- with the trim piece still intact... I like the look. The little blue pads are called "leap pads." They're manufactured by 3M for the ophthalmic industry (I'm an optician by trade). It's a square pad of rubber with adhesive on each side (you peel off the blue tape to expose the front). If you know anyone who works in an optical lab, these little pads are super useful in the garage. They're good for eliminating squeaks, protecting surfaces, or keeping surfaces from sliding. There's another pad on each light between the bracket and the light (once you tighten the clamping bolt, the lights will not easily move from their set position).
tumblr_plajlo5HQ51tkp167o6_1280.jpg

The pre-installed AUX switches in the JL are perhaps my favorite factory option of all time! AUX1 is a 40amp circuit, which I believe already has a fuse built in. However, I decided to install a 30amp in-line fuse in front of the AUX wiring (that way if I ever get a short, the weaker fuse should blow first and ensure none of the AUX wiring is damaged).
tumblr_plajlo5HQ51tkp167o3_1280.jpg

As usual, this project took about twice as long as I figured it would- but I'm very happy with the results. I've had Auxbeams installed on ATVs, and they seem to stand up really well to being beat around and covered with mud. They throw a lot of light, and- if I do destroy one- they're only $80 a light.
tumblr_plajlo5HQ51tkp167o1_1280.jpg

I know installing factory brackets isn't all that big a deal, but I searched around before buying them and couldn't find anyone who had posted their experience with them- so hopefully something in here helps someone out down the road. I'm trying to let the Mopar A pillar mounts grow on me, but they seem to be way too beefy for the 4" side shooters I want to install in that location. Heck, if these lights put out enough light, I might just be done with forward facing lights.
 

Jeeper

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So I also did this install. I found the parts provided to be less than great. But one question I had for you was why you added a fuse in line. When I installed the mopar 7" lights, the instructions specifically stated to use AUX 3 or 4 (because they were 15amps) and I assumed there is a fuse in the box for that electric run. Is that not the case?
 
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Varilux

Varilux

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AUX1 was overkill for those lights, but if I ever add anything that draws a lot of juice I'll just switch the lights to AUX3 or 4.

As for the fuse, you are correct- the circuit is already protected by a 40a fuse. In the near future (next time I go to the parts store) I'll grab a 15a fuse to go in that in-line holder (since ideally a fuse should be rated just over what the circuit should see in normal operation- which is probably the point of the instructions that came with your 7" lights). I suppose I could just find the factory 40a fuse and swap it out for a 15a and accomplish the same thing (or I could have just hooked the lights up to AUX4).

I just always put an in-line fuse in anytime I'm wiring anything...
 

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Jeeper

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This install kind of sucked. One of the four bolts didn't work for me so I had to macgyver it my self with an anchor. But its in there now and I really like how they look. I didn't want to get a winch guard bar so this was the best option for me. I wired them to the Aux switches but also placed an inline switch in the engine compartment so that I could cut power off in the event that I had the covers on them. That might seem odd but I have three kids and when unsupervised they push every button within reach. I didn't want to risk walking out and seeing melted covers. That said, I have yet to put the covers on so the switches largely remain unused. The lights are amazing by the way. Super bright.

Jeep 1.jpg


Jeep 1-2.jpg


Jeep 5.jpg


Jeep 6.jpg
 

Maz7

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This install kind of sucked. One of the four bolts didn't work for me so I had to macgyver it my self with an anchor. But its in there now and I really like how they look. I didn't want to get a winch guard bar so this was the best option for me. I wired them to the Aux switches but also placed an inline switch in the engine compartment so that I could cut power off in the event that I had the covers on them. That might seem odd but I have three kids and when unsupervised they push every button within reach. I didn't want to risk walking out and seeing melted covers. That said, I have yet to put the covers on so the switches largely remain unused. The lights are amazing by the way. Super bright.

Jeep 1.jpg


Jeep 1-2.jpg


Jeep 5.jpg


Jeep 6.jpg
Hi

looks way too close to the grill . Is it even possible to remove the grill with out a scratch if you have to?
 

Jeeper

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Hi

looks way too close to the grill . Is it even possible to remove the grill with out a scratch if you have to?
They do sit nice and close to the grill. but if you need to pop off the grill, the lights can be tilted down and doing so creates plenty of room to remove the grill without damage. If you are the sort of person who is rough removing the grill, I would recommend placing a hand towel around each light so that when you aggressively pry off the grill and it still bumps into the tilted down and away light, you don't suffer any scratches to your grill's paint job.
 

JeezAJeep

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This install kind of sucked. One of the four bolts didn't work for me so I had to macgyver it my self with an anchor. But its in there now and I really like how they look. I didn't want to get a winch guard bar so this was the best option for me. I wired them to the Aux switches but also placed an inline switch in the engine compartment so that I could cut power off in the event that I had the covers on them. That might seem odd but I have three kids and when unsupervised they push every button within reach. I didn't want to risk walking out and seeing melted covers. That said, I have yet to put the covers on so the switches largely remain unused. The lights are amazing by the way. Super bright.

Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6


Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6


Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6


Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6
Are those the Mopar lights? I heard they are large in the back and rub against the grill? I may have my dealer install them, and hope they do not mess them up
 

Wooly86303

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Finally tracked down a set of bumper brackets (part 82215428) to install some front lights. Although the install isn't difficult, there were a few issues with the supplied instructions and the kit, so I thought I'd post a few comments and pics...

After removing the grille and the plastic trim that covers the gap between the bumper and the body, you have access to the holes to which the brackets are supposed to mount (each bracket has two mounting bolts). This is where the first issue is encountered. The instructions indicate the holes should be enlarged with a 10mm drill bit. Then there is a collared sleeve which is supposed to be expanded within the hole to create a threaded mounting point for the bolt.
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

The idea is to insert the sleeve into the hole you've expanded with the drill bit (and you really do need a 10mm drill bit, because 3/8" is too small and 7/16" is a bit large). There is an extra bolt and nut supplied, and you are supposed to thread the bolt through the nut and into the sleeve. As you continue to tighten the bolt (with the sleeve in the hole), the sleeve will begin to crush- expanding it to be permanently positioned in the hole. Then you take the extra bolt and nut out and you have a mounting point for the bracket bolts.
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

The problem (at least in my kit) is the nut was too big for the bolt- making it impossible to crush/expand the sleeve. Fortunately, like most of us I have a huge collection of miscellaneous nuts- and one of them was the correct size. The pic above shows the sleeve expanded into the back hole, along with a non-crushed sleeve, the bolt with my extra nut and the incorrect-sized nut supplied with the kit. Once I had the top sleeves mounted, I bolted them down and quickly decided I would NOT be drilling out the side holes- instead, I'll be using 5/16" rivets. Unless you plan to use the brackets as tow hooks (which I don't :^), there is no need to drill out the side mounting points. The only downside being- if I ever want to remove the brackets, I'll need to drill out the aluminum rivets.
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

The pic above shows the brackets in place secured by only the top bolts. The yellow area shows the side mounting point where the rivets will go. At this point, I read ahead in the directions and noticed that Jeep's engineers apparently want you to discard the trim piece that fills the fender/body gap- or at the very least cut the back portion of the trim piece off! Just looking at how the brackets are set up, it becomes obvious that you do NOT need to discard- or even cut the back off- the trim piece. All you need to do is insert the brackets through the trim piece BEFORE attaching it to the mounting points.
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

If (like any rational person) you decide to retain the trim piece, the instructions do provide a template to create holes in the piece for the trim to go through. The template works for the passenger side hole, but- as I discovered- it is incorrect for the driver side hole...
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

The yellow arrow shows where the driver side hole needs to be adjusted. Basically, you can still use the template, but move the rectangular opening in it towards the circular well that houses the round retaining clip. The edge of the hole needs to be about 1/8" from the hole (i.e., you need to move it over about 1/2" to 5/8" from where they tell you to put it). If you don't, the trim piece will not fit over the brackets. I figured it would be a lot easier to pre-install the wiring for my lights.
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

BTW, according to my voltmeter, the top of the mounting bolt cannot be used as a grounding point (as was my original plan). The only way to ground to the bracket mount is to touch the sleeve itself (which would require you to put the ground between the bracket and the mounting surface). So, I decided to ground to the radiator support. The yellow arrow shows a factory wiring connection point you'll need to take out of the mounting hole on the passenger side. The red arrow is where I grounded.
Jeep Wrangler JL Install Thread - bumper bracket 82215428 Jeep 6

After enlarging the driver's side hole, I was able to bolt down the brackets using the top bolts (it's easy to access the bolts with your ratchet- even with the trim piece in place). Although the brackets feel very solid as is, I'll be putting in the rivets once I've reinserted all the hold down pins to the trim piece and reinstalled the grill (want to install the rivets last, since I can't take the brackets back off without drilling them out once I do). If I have to, I'll remove the skirt to access the sides of the brackets, but it looks like I'll be able to reach my riveter to where it needs to go without doing so. Now it's time to watch some football! Hopefully, I'll be able to post some pics of installed lights tomorrow (looking forward to using one of those factory AUX switches)!

Overall, the kit isn't all that bad, but considering you pay $138 at the dealer (I've seen it for $83 online), it seems to me they should have put more thought into it. At the very least, the supplied instructions leave a lot to be desired.
 

Wooly86303

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Just installed these Mopar light brackets. They were very difficult to get on due to the limited space between the bumper the the radiators. One thing to note on the plastic trim piece; since there is absolutely no way to install it before torquing the bracket fasteners, what I did was extend the two cutouts towards each other so that the trim piece fits over the already installed bracket. I have a Mopar LED light bar installed onto the brackets, so you can't see the extended cutouts.

This job took me way too long to accomplish!
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