limeade
Well-Known Member
Can any of you who are running the BB A/T tell me if they're a 3 ply sidewall? I looked on the MT site and it didn't specifically say. The BB M/T does state 3 ply sidewall.
Thank you
Thank you
Sponsored
How often did you rotate the ATZs? I've heard a few that have gotten 60k on them.I am planning on the AT Boss in 35” for my 2021 JLUR. I had two sets of ATZ P3 (=10 tires) on my 13 JKU which lasted me 45k miles on each set. Absolutely superb tires for the South West U.S. I suspect the AT Boss will be just as good, but hopefully they will be a little smoother and quieter as they wear.
I tried a set of 35s BFG AT2s on my 2020 JLUR thinking they would be a nice change and although a tuff tire, I did not like them as much as my ATZ P3 tires on my 13 JKU. So it’s back to Mickeys for me.
I did rotations every 10k miles and ran them at 30 psi “cold” on stock JKUR rims. I never let my tires get worn down to the “wear bars” and replace them while they still have usable life. Yes I could have easily gotten more street miles out of each set, but 45k was about right for me to still have faith in viable “off road” performance and toughness. The south west desert off road environment where I live and do a lot of off roading is pretty demanding and quite unforgiving on tires so better to error on the side of caution.How often did you rotate the ATZs? I've heard a few that have gotten 60k on them.
E has a higher load rating and a thicker sidewall, this translates into a firmer ride but more puncture resistance and a heavier towing/load capacity (also heavier weight). For a Jeep Wrangler a D-rated will be more than adequate and will be more compliant when you air down and more comfortable on the road.On Micky Thompsons website there is basically 2 part numbers for 35s. One is load range e vs d. Can someone tell me the difference or why I'd want one over the other?
I drove up on a 6” tall rubber wheel chock to get an idea how much I needed to air down to envelop a rock about that size. I went down to 14 but down to about 15 was where the gain was. The stiffer sidewall was a factor there. If that chock were 4” tall it would have covered it. It’ll be good for what I’m doing though. It’s an E load.E has a higher load rating and a thicker sidewall, this translates into a firmer ride but more puncture resistance and a heavier towing/load capacity (also heavier weight). For a Jeep Wrangler a D-rated will be more than adequate and will be more compliant when you air down and more comfortable on the road.
Go with the “D” rated tire. I had two sets of the “Ds” and they provided super tough, so much so I never worried after a short while about the sidewalls being damaged. I ran them on most of the “big name” CA, UT and NV trails and also all over North America and Mexico.On Micky Thompsons website there is basically 2 part numbers for 35s. One is load range e vs d. Can someone tell me the difference or why I'd want one over the other?
My lift came in last week. So everything will be installed this week. What PSI are you running your tires at?I see. Other than they been just 34”, they ride great.
Initially I left the 37psi (computer reading) that installer inflated the tires. The ride over bumps was super harsh. Eventually, I did the chalk test. I measured 35-36 psi cold with a digital gauge and went to 32psi but still saw the edges of the tire not having contact with the ground on a straight line drive. Finally I went to 30 psi with the digital gauge (32 psi on the computer) and the ride is way much better just like before with the factory 33s. The edges of the tire still didn’t contact the ground (see attached chalk test image) on a straight line drive but I didn’t wanted to go lower than 30psi. I have a front steel bumper and winch which added 153 pounds and will be different for you if you have more or less weight. However, this will give you an idea where to start.My lift came in last week. So everything will be installed this week. What PSI are you running your tires at?
Thanks.Initially I left the 37psi (computer reading) that installer inflated the tires. The ride over bumps was super harsh. Eventually, I did the chalk test. I measured 35-36 psi cold with a digital gauge and went to 32psi but still saw the edges of the tire not having contact with the ground on a straight line drive. Finally I went to 30 psi with the digital gauge (32 psi on the computer) and the ride is way much better just like before with the factory 33s. The edges of the tire still didn’t contact the ground (see attached chalk test image) on a straight line drive but I didn’t wanted to go lower than 30psi. I have a front steel bumper and winch which added 153 pounds and will be different for you if you have more or less weight. However, this will give you an idea where to start.
That looks pretty good IMO.Here is a picture of the tires with the Clayton 2.5 inch overland lift just installed. It still needs an alignment. So I won't be picking it up for a few days. This picture was from a distance and through glass. I'll get some better pictures in a few days.