Increase Clearance Options

rizej

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I'm trying to decide what the best thing to do for increasing my JLUR ground clearance while keeping price in mind as the driving factor. If I had unlimited money and a garage to install everything myself then I'd grab a 2.5" suspension lift (i.e. MetalCloak or Teraflex) and get new wheels and tires with better backspacing. However, all of that plus installation would be a huge amount of money. I'm trying to slowly build everything out so I was wondering what the next best step to increasing clearance would be?

  • Option 1
    • 5x 315/70R17 Cooper Discoverer STT Pros on Stock Rubicon Wheels
    • 1.75" Spidertrax Wheel Spacers
    • Teraflex Tire Carrier to allow for carrying the 35" spare
  • Option 2
    • MetalCloak 2.5" Gamechange w/ Rocksport Shocks OR Mopar 2" Lift w/ Adjustable Trackbar
    • Stock 33" KO2 Tires & Wheels
My only fear is that going with the lift and not upgrading the tires at the same time would leave too large of an awkward gap because of the 33" tires





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UNC Rubicon

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A lift won’t increase ground clearance. Tires will. A lift will allow you to run larger tires, that’s it.

On a JLUR, you can fit 315s with no lift. If you run a lift with 33s, it will look like your Jeep skipped leg day.

IMO, you don’t need the tire carrier. I’m running 315s with the stock carrier. I added some home made bump stops. No need for more.
 

Sean K.

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A lift won’t increase ground clearance. Tires will. A lift will allow you to run larger tires, that’s it.

On a JLUR, you can fit 315s with no lift. If you run a lift with 33s, it will look like your Jeep skipped leg day.

IMO, you don’t need the tire carrier. I’m running 315s with the stock carrier. I added some home made bump stops. No need for more.
It depends on what the OP means by ground clearance. People on this site seem to have a real hang up over diff clearance equating to THE abject standard of "ground clearance"....and while it may technically be correct, you also have breakover and approach and departure angles to deal with as well as any other component and its distance to well, the ground.....like the frame rails, gas tank, x-members, shock mounts, etc.

Some of those items will be raised by a suspension lift without changing tires....some won't....so we should probably get clarification about what the OP means by 'ground clearance'....as in, what exactly is he wanting to raise up?
 

Sean K.

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I'm trying to decide what the best thing to do for increasing my JLUR ground clearance while keeping price in mind as the driving factor. If I had unlimited money and a garage to install everything myself then I'd grab a 2.5" suspension lift (i.e. MetalCloak or Teraflex) and get new wheels and tires with better backspacing. However, all of that plus installation would be a huge amount of money. I'm trying to slowly build everything out so I was wondering what the next best step to increasing clearance would be?

  • Option 1
    • 5x 315/70R17 Cooper Discoverer STT Pros on Stock Rubicon Wheels
    • 1.75" Spidertrax Wheel Spacers
    • Teraflex Tire Carrier to allow for carrying the 35" spare
  • Option 2
    • MetalCloak 2.5" Gamechange w/ Rocksport Shocks OR Mopar 2" Lift w/ Adjustable Trackbar
    • Stock 33" KO2 Tires & Wheels
My only fear is that going with the lift and not upgrading the tires at the same time would leave too large of an awkward gap because of the 33" tires

BTW, I agree with UNCRubicon....If 35s are the goal....you can fit those stock. I'm running true 37's with no lift on my wife's JLUR.

That said, the "clearance" you gain by going to 35s is only going to be roughly 1" depending on the true tire sizes you're talking about.
 

UNC Rubicon

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It depends on what the OP means by ground clearance. People on this site seem to have a real hang up over diff clearance equating to THE abject standard of "ground clearance"....and while it may technically be correct, you also have breakover and approach and departure angles to deal with as well as any other component and its distance to well, the ground.....like the frame rails, gas tank, x-members, shock mounts, etc.

Some of those items will be raised by a suspension lift without changing tires....some won't....so we should probably get clarification about what the OP means by 'ground clearance'....as in, what exactly is he wanting to raise up?
Fair enough. I’ve always assumed increasing ground clearance is increasing the clearance of the lowest point. You are correct that a suspension lift will increase approach and departure angles. I suppose increasing break over angle is desirable. However, how often is the approach or departure angle of a Jeep the limiting factor?
 

Sean K.

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Fair enough. I’ve always assumed increasing ground clearance is increasing the clearance of the lowest point. You are correct that a suspension lift will increase approach and departure angles. I suppose increasing break over angle is desirable. However, how often is the approach or departure angle of a Jeep the limiting factor?
IME, the major problem point on the JLUR is the breakover....the frame height is just too freaking low on this thing, especially for a vehicle on 37s; just under 16" at full street pressure is problematic to say the least.

Approach can usually be accommodated by simply picking a different line and hitting the obstacle at an angle...although every bit up front helps as the trail gets harder. Departure is often hindered b/c there's only one good way off a really steep obstacle and you're going to drag regardless....which is why body mounted spares are usually a bad idea and bumper mounted ones fare better.
 

UNC Rubicon

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IME, the major problem point on the JLUR is the breakover....the frame height is just too freaking low on this thing, especially for a vehicle on 37s; just under 16" at full street pressure is problematic to say the least.

Approach can usually be accommodated by simply picking a different line and hitting the obstacle at an angle...although every bit up front helps as the trail gets harder. Departure is often hindered b/c there's only one good way off a really steep obstacle and you're going to drag regardless....which is why body mounted spares are usually a bad idea and bumper mounted ones fare better.
Well said. Thanks for providing a different perspective than I previously considered.
 

Sean K.

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Well said. Thanks for providing a different perspective than I previously considered.
Nothing wrong with your perspective....the OP may mean exactly what you're talking about...clearance at the diff. To me, that problem is usually fixed by going to the largest tire the axle can reasonably/reliably handle for the type of wheeling a particular person does, and then *line selection* (which is the larger contributor to that issue).
 

Sean K.

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Also, keep in mind, there are a lot of IFS rigs out there with far better "ground clearance" numbers than the Jeep...even if the Jeep is equipped with fairly good sized tires. Are the IFS rigs better for 4wheeling? IME, maybe for some applications like prerunning, but if conquering really technical trails that really test the overall capability of a vehicle to actually traverse difficult terrain, then the Jeep is generally going to be the better option...in spite of the others having more "ground clearance". Again, it comes down to line selection/tire placement (as well as longevity/reliability/robustness of the parts).
 
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rizej

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@Sean K. @UNC Rubicon Thanks for all the replies. Definitely good to hear both sides. I guess when I refer to ground clearance I was kind of thinking of both types.

My goal is to eventually have a 2.5" lift and 35" tires. I live in an apartment building and park underground so no room to really work on the Jeep myself or store parts. I want to get a 2.5" lift that has LCAs and adjustable trackbars so that the steering geometry stays correct. With the lift, I'd also need to get shocks and right now the Falcon 3.1s seem like a good middle ground or perhaps the MetalCloak Rocksports. The 6 pack shocks seem to give the most extension/compression but I don't want to also have to upgrade the front driveshaft. Are there any other lift kits out there that will allow me to piece meal them together over time because that could be a good option?

The reason I was thinking switching to 35" (STT Pros - 315/70R17) would be to increase ground clearance without the huge cost of having to pay a full day of installation at a shop for the lift. Also, with the lift I'd probably want to increase steering steering component strength so switching to the Yeti Steersmarts setup but again thats another $1000.
 

Sean K.

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@Sean K. @UNC Rubicon Thanks for all the replies. Definitely good to hear both sides. I guess when I refer to ground clearance I was kind of thinking of both types.

My goal is to eventually have a 2.5" lift and 35" tires. I live in an apartment building and park underground so no room to really work on the Jeep myself or store parts. I want to get a 2.5" lift that has LCAs and adjustable trackbars so that the steering geometry stays correct. With the lift, I'd also need to get shocks and right now the Falcon 3.1s seem like a good middle ground or perhaps the MetalCloak Rocksports. The 6 pack shocks seem to give the most extension/compression but I don't want to also have to upgrade the front driveshaft. Are there any other lift kits out there that will allow me to piece meal them together over time because that could be a good option?

The reason I was thinking switching to 35" (STT Pros - 315/70R17) would be to increase ground clearance without the huge cost of having to pay a full day of installation at a shop for the lift. Also, with the lift I'd probably want to increase steering steering component strength so switching to the Yeti Steersmarts setup but again thats another $1000.
Sounds like you've already decided you want a lift, and tires, and upgraded steering. Now it's time to prioritize. We cant' tell you which to do first....if it were me, I'd do tires & wheels first b/c you'll need them later anyway, they'll fit without a lift, and you may find you like it better without the lift. If you do the lift first, you're still going to need tires.
 
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JLUin818

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That said, the "clearance" you gain by going to 35s is only going to be roughly 1" depending on the true tire sizes you're talking about.
an inch makes a difference! or so my wife says, but im not sure she knows what she's talking about.... :bandit:
 

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Sounds like you've already decided you want a lift, and tires, and upgraded steering. Now it's time to prioritize. We cant' tell you which to do first....if it were me, I'd do tires & wheels first b/c you'll need them later anyway, they'll fit without a lift, and you may find you like it better without the lift. If you do the lift first, you're still going to need tires.
Hey Sean, I’m on 37 nittos at 30 psi warm and a 3.5 inch lift. I know the lift doesn’t do anything for the diff but I was curious about the height difference between true 37s no lift and 35-3/4 nittos with lift. My front diff is 12-1/8” from floor and I’m 19-1/8” inches from concrete floor to bottom of frame, not cross member, at back of drivers door. I know it’s probably 110 out today, I used to live there, so if you’re out messing around someday if you wouldn’t mind measuring yours.
Thanks
Roky
 

Sean K.

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Hey Sean, I’m on 37 nittos at 30 psi warm and a 3.5 inch lift. I know the lift doesn’t do anything for the diff but I was curious about the height difference between true 37s no lift and 35-3/4 nittos with lift. My front diff is 12-1/8” from floor and I’m 19-1/8” inches from concrete floor to bottom of frame, not cross member, at back of drivers door. I know it’s probably 110 out today, I used to live there, so if you’re out messing around someday if you wouldn’t mind measuring yours.
Thanks
Roky
I won't be home until late, but I'll get you a measurement. Keep in mind, true 37s are 37" mounted on the rim, NOT on the vehicle. I wouldn't be surprised if mine squat an inch or so with the weight of the vehicle on them.

I know my frame height is 15 7/8" at street pressure (30 psi cold) with the 37s. So you're 3 1/4" taller than mine with the 3.5" lift.
 

Roky

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I won't be home until late, but I'll get you a measurement. Keep in mind, true 37s are 37" mounted on the rim, NOT on the vehicle. I wouldn't be surprised if mine squat an inch or so with the weight of the vehicle on them.

I know my frame height is 15 7/8" at street pressure (30 psi cold) with the 37s. So you're 3 1/4" taller than mine with the 3.5" lift.
Gotcha, I just measured my spare and it’s 36-1/2 inches, I guess that what you mean by true 37s? It’s just to make that part of my brain to shut up, I just like to know sh&t,lol. You know how it is.
 

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