If regearing (4.10 to 5.13) should the axle shafts be replaced?

[BpBpImaJp]

JLUR 37s 3.5" lift Regear to 5.13 from stock 4.10. Should the axle shafts be upgraded as well?

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[jlewissystem]

They don’t HAVE to be, but a lot of guys take the opportunity of “while you’re in there”. I re-geared to 5.13s and haven’t touched the shafts....yet. I haven’t had a need, but plan to in the future for more rock terrain.

 

[limeade]

I haven't re-geared yet, but planning to go with 5.13's also on my JLUR with 37's. I upgraded my axle shafts already as I didn't trust the stock shafts and u-joints with 37's while off roading.

If you're paying someone to do the gears, you might as well have them install new shafts at the same time. There shouldn't be any labor charge since the stock ones have to be pulled out anyways.

I think it's smart to upgrade your shafts whether you do it or they do it, especially if you go off road with 37's.

 

[Halstem1]

I'm hoping to do my re-gear to 5.13s soon-ish. I did go ahead and buy a set of dana spicer chomoly rear shafts. Like someone above said, the rear shaft has to be pulled anyway so I already checked with the shop that there were no additional costs. To me, it seemed like cheap "insurance" to just do the rear. 37's add plenty of additional stress and I also tow a small travel trailer. I also now have a set of spare stock shofts.

The front shafts however.... I don't know. I was worried about twisting a shaft in the rear. I don't see that a lot with the front. Seems the weak point is the u-joint. That said, RCV looks like the better option and those are way more money. If I could afford it, i'd do it for sure. Although, I don't know if I need them. I'll do the fronts later.

 

[Xtremetj]

I’m replacing the shafts when I do mine next month. The shop doing mine said no charge since they are in there. It will just give me piece of mind when wheeling.

I think a little differently. I’m dong the fronts and can wait on the rear. I think the front get more stress than the rear. Especially when climbing obstacles and turning.

It appears a lot of folks are running RCV but I’m not convinced. I think I’m going to do the Yukon with FAD delete up front since they replace the inner shaft with one piece.

 

[Halstem1]

I’m replacing the shafts when I do mine next month. The shop doing mine said no charge since they are in there. It will just give me piece of mind when wheeling.

I think a little differently. I’m dong the fronts and can wait on the rear. I think the front get more stress than the rear. Especially when climbing obstacles and turning.

It appears a lot of folks are running RCV but I’m not convinced. I think I’m going to do the Yukon with FAD delete up front since they replace the inner shaft with one piece.

That makes sense! I'm curious about the chromoly fronts. What did you spend, if you don't mind me asking? I'm not sure I "need" RCVs and may do just chromoly shafts. Do they have a bigger u-joint or just the fact they are chromoly?

 

[Xtremetj]

That makes sense! I'm curious about the chromoly fronts. What did you spend, if you don't mind me asking? I'm not sure I "need" RCVs and may do just chromoly shafts. Do they have a bigger u-joint or just the fact they are chromoly?

This is my understanding after a ton of research and discussions the phone.

The Yukon setup with FAD delete is $850. Unfortunately they run the 1350 u-joint and not a bigger one like Dana does. However, more importantly to me, I want to eliminate the intermediate shaft which Yukon does. They us a 1 piece shaft like the RCV setup. Dana does not eliminate the inner shaft in their FAD delete kit. They lock it with a collar.

I’m okay with 1350 u-joints... after all that’s all most guys are running in their driveshafts.

Another reason for not running RCV’s is that I would rather not make the ring and pinion the weak link in the system. I’d rather deal with a u-joint on the trail.

Just my opinion.

Greg

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