I keep warping rotors. Why?

[Spank]

I replaced my OEM rotors about a year ago after having them machined twice for warping. I purchased a PowerStop kit with drilled and slotted rotors and new pads with the hopes of dropping temps and getting them to last longer, but I'm having the same results. The calipers seem to be fine, pads are okay, everything is greased nicely, and my brake fluid is fresh. I can't find any leaks in the lines or issues with the brake booster.

I'm running 37" KM3s and since it's a Rubicon, I've got the larger two-piston units up front. Anyone else having this problem or is this just a normal thing due to the JL in general not having the greatest brakes? If not, what else can I check?

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[RoadiJeff]

When you tighten the lug nuts are you using a torque wrench set to 130 ft-lbs, as the owner's manual suggests? And tightening them in a star pattern?

 

[Spank]

When you tighten the lug nuts are you using a torque wrench set to 130 ft-lbs, as the owner's manual suggests? And tightening them in a star pattern?

Yup! But that doesn't mean Discount Tire did during a rotation and balance, though.

 

[GATORB8]

Heat can do some crazy things, after tracking a car hard you don’t want to actually use the brakes to hold the car at a stop or use the parking brakes. Was always told “warped” rotors aren’t really warped, it’s pad transfer from the heat: https://centricparts.com/getmedia/b..._Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

 

[MichaelAnthony]

I can't say I have that issue, even with my automatic I use the transmission as intended and use that instead of a heavy foot. I have 63k miles and the original pads and rotors. I am not heavy on the brakes and have never had an issue with uneven brake pad deposits to cause thickness variation in the rotors to cause vibration in the pedal. I would have to say it is mounting and or driving style and or a combination of both.

 

[Walker Texas Wrangler]

When you tighten the lug nuts are you using a torque wrench set to 130 ft-lbs, as the owner's manual suggests? And tightening them in a star pattern?

In some cases it's the above. I had a first year Titan and it was a common (and the only issue) I experienced. The larger rotors had a tendency to warp if you put in the lugs too tightly and they heated up. After having them replaced with warranty I always requested they be hand tightened at rotations and never had another issue.

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Many years ago, on advice from a gentleman and close friend who owned a rather large region of a national franchise of tire stores, I stopped looking for problems with regards to drums and rotors. I have not let a lathe or surfacer touch my brake surfaces for several decades and or 1,000,000 plus miles driving the various vehicles we own.

He had worked his way up from a start as a gas station attendant and had become completely engrossed in the tire store industry. His opinion regarding many expectations that "consumers" have been trained to habituate was that these ideas had been primarily instituted as easy revenue add ons for the industry.

I keep fresh, well made brake pads on our vehicles, and maintain the hydraulic system with care, but utilize a don't ask don't tell policy with the braking surfaces. They live a good long life and occasionally require retirement.

After adopting his advice I learned through first hand experience that my rotors and drums lasted 2 to 3 times longer than I had previously considered a lifespan of service. I also found the premise that you must purposefully cut and level the braking surface as a requirement to prevent accelerated wear of the brake pads, was not supported by my experience. My brake pads do not seem to wear out any faster due to a lack of attention to the details on the drums or rotors.

Perhaps, it is possible to tighten the lug nuts enough to warp the rotors, but I suspect this is more likely to occur on exotic sports cars equipped ultralight race styled components rather than a Jeep with a regular old chunk of metal found on daily drivers.

130 pounds per foot is a wholelotta torque... a whole lot more than the day in day out torque values a tire store encounters on passenger vehicles. If the store is over tightening the jeep wheels they would be ripping studs out of the townie cars every couple of minutes.

If one of my vehicles had braking surfaces that were especially problematic in a premature time frame I would assume the issue was caused by poor driving habits, and I would try to see if any improvements could be implemented with that idea in mind.

Good luck.

 

[JasonInDLH]

I replaced my OEM rotors about a year ago after having them machined twice for warping. I purchased a PowerStop kit with drilled and slotted rotors and new pads with the hopes of dropping temps and getting them to last longer, but I'm having the same results. The calipers seem to be fine, pads are okay, everything is greased nicely, and my brake fluid is fresh. I can't find any leaks in the lines or issues with the brake booster.

I'm running 37" KM3s and since it's a Rubicon, I've got the larger two-piston units up front. Anyone else having this problem or is this just a normal thing due to the JL in general not having the greatest brakes? If not, what else can I check?

Did you use a Dial Indicator to make sure the rotors have no runout (or at least not to exceed the maximum tolerance….2/1000” generally)?

 

[Qjoh5510]

I’m gonna go with its 100% your driving style. Avoid long dragged out braking at higher speeds and unnecessary hard braking. Let the engine do some of the braking for you when possible.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Many tires stores have flunkies that hammer on wheels with impacts putting out several hundred pounds of torque on air and 1000 or more with electric. Sadly, broken studs are more common now than ever and inconsistent torque from one lug to another will eventually cause a warp when you factor in the heat of braking. Many tire shops do not have torque sticks, and if they do they are worn out. Even less use a torque wrench. Hammer them on, drop the jacks and move it out is what they do.

Driving habits also come into play. There are more 2 footed (one covering or lightly resting on the brake and one on the gas) drivers now than ever before. I can tell when I'm following someone if they drive with 2 feet as their brake lights will lightly flash quite a bit. Just that very light constant pressure will get the brakes very hot which will cause warping, fade a very fast brake wear. If you drive an automatic with 2 feet, stop. Tie your left foot the the seat if you have to.

 

[MEHillwalker80]

If you want to warp your rotors, just do the following: Brake hard to a full stop from a high speed. Then while the rotors are cooling, keep your foot hard on the brake pedal to let the rotors stay hot under the brake pads while the rotors cool unevenly and warp.

 

[blnewt]

Heat can do some crazy things, after tracking a car hard you don’t want to actually use the brakes to hold the car at a stop or use the parking brakes. Was always told “warped” rotors aren’t really warped, it’s pad transfer from the heat: https://centricparts.com/getmedia/b..._Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

Yep, uneven pad transfer is a much more likely culprit. I'd look into the newer Hawk Pads too, this seems to be the only performance braking option as of now. The Powerstops are a better option that stock but I doubt they're on the level of Hawks in regard to actual performance braking.

Also @Spank did you bed-in the pads when you did the install, that can make a huge difference in how well the pads perform, and less likely to build up unevenly on the rotors.

 

[JustDave]

I replaced my OEM rotors about a year ago after having them machined twice for warping. I purchased a PowerStop kit with drilled and slotted rotors and new pads with the hopes of dropping temps and getting them to last longer, but I'm having the same results. The calipers seem to be fine, pads are okay, everything is greased nicely, and my brake fluid is fresh. I can't find any leaks in the lines or issues with the brake booster.

I'm running 37" KM3s and since it's a Rubicon, I've got the larger two-piston units up front. Anyone else having this problem or is this just a normal thing due to the JL in general not having the greatest brakes? If not, what else can I check?

I'd say you're getting them too hot. Maybe from coming to stop too fast. Stopping those 37's is def going to take more heat than normal. I've never had a problem warping on my 35's, but my wife warps her rotors at least once a year on her yukon, sometimes twice a year. Might just have to be more conscious of your braking habits.

 

[rickinAZ]

The Wrangler is a heavy vehicle. I avoid hard braking unless I'm forced into it by unusual circumstances.

OP, are you an egg-on-the-pedal braker, or a stomp-on-it type? My daughter (stomp-on-it braker) goes through brakes at a brisk pace on her Wrangler.

 

[Spank]

Did you use a Dial Indicator to make sure the rotors have no runout (or at least not to exceed the maximum tolerance….2/1000” generally)?

No. Rotor replacements aren't exactly a hobby or a thing I do often.

I would assume the issue was caused by poor driving habits, and I would try to see if any improvements could be implemented with that idea in mind.

I’m gonna go with its 100% your driving style. Avoid long dragged out braking at higher speeds and unnecessary hard braking. Let the engine do some of the braking for you when possible.

If you drive an automatic with 2 feet, stop. Tie your left foot the the seat if you have to.

The Wrangler is a heavy vehicle. I avoid hard braking unless I'm forced into it by unusual circumstances.

OP, are you an egg-on-the-pedal braker, or a stomp-on-it type? My daughter (stomp-on-it braker) goes through brakes at a brisk pace on her Wrangler.

I'm more than willing to re-evaluate my driving habits, but I'm not driving fast nor braking hard. In fact, this thing hasn't been on the Interstate for almost two months. It's not a daily driver. Likewise, we've got three other vehicles here, one of which is a Challenger 392 with the 6-piston Brembos up front that I can drive fast and hard (for shits and giggles, not habit) and I'm not having any issues.

By nature of Colorado's low quality roads and the massive amounts of garbage and rocky debris littered across them, I don't bury the pedal, I don't follow others too closely, and I don't slam brakes. In fact, any general street driving in my Jeep is typically very relaxed and there's never a hurry to get anywhere.

Also @Spank did you bed-in the pads when you did the install, that can make a huge difference in how well the pads perform, and less likely to build up unevenly on the rotors.

I did, yes. However, I do live on top of a hill, so I wasn't able to start the bed-in procedure without using the brakes somewhat before I got on level ground.

If you want to warp your rotors, just do the following: Brake hard to a full stop from a high speed. Then while the rotors are cooling, keep your foot hard on the brake pedal to let the rotors stay hot under the brake pads while the rotors cool unevenly and warp.

And that's exactly how my brakes are behaving. You can even see slight marks on the rear rotors clearly indicating uneven pad wear. It's entirely possible my e-brake is set too tight so that they're making a smidge of consistent contact with the rears (which are warping far worse), but that doesn't explain the front.

It's also possible this is just a shitty kit. It is, after all, made in China. However, folks seem to like PowerStop in general and there doesn't seem to be a high failure rate with them on any specific vehicle platform.

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