jpclark
Member
- First Name
- JP
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2019
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 25
- Location
- Houston, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392 Xtreme Recon
- Thread starter
- #1
Having recently traded in my JKU for a JLU, I wanted to approach the install of all my existing electronics in a wholistic and 'near-factory look' way. Like most of us, I've read through virtually all the forum posts for ideas (thanks to those who posted their work) for ideas. In spite of all the threads, 1 key technique seemed to be missing... HOW to route wiring through the center stack and up to the top dash. Below is a photo of what I came up with.
The view from the driver seat.
The view from the passenger seat.
The view from the front of the vehicle with the windshield down.
The solution is based around 67 Design's JL Rail Mount system. Specifically:
First challenge - identifying the power source for both the iPhone and GoPro. As some have already posted, I used the Quadratec 12 volt power adapter since this was a super-clean way of tapping into a switched power source. (Instructions for installing are well documented, so I'll not belabor them here.)
Unfortunately, the Jeep provides 12 volt power, but typical USB devices need 5 volts, so I purchased two 12v to 5v voltage step down converters and connected both to the power adapter.
Of course, I also had to get a 3' lightening to USB cable and 3' USB-C to USB-A cable for the iPhone and GoPro. (Obviously, readers would need to get the appropriate cables for their specific devices.)
My plan for drilling through the top dash required some way of getting a clean look. With that in mind, I ordered a rubber grommet assortment pack for use in cleaning up the cuts. I ordered the pack since I didn't know EXACTLY how it was going to go in.
On to the fun part... dropping the windshield, pulling the center stack and cutting through the top dash.
To prep for drilling through the dash:
This is the hole from the top.
Next, I used an cutting blade to clean up the "hole" through the rubber fill plate. The rubber is VERY soft, so this took some careful trimming. Given the unevenness of the cut and the thickness of the rubber fill plate being thicker than I expected, my grommets weren't going to fit as originally planned. I solved this by cutting the lip off 1 edge of the grommet, and super-gluing the grommet to the rubber fill plate.
This is the photo of the BOTTOM of the rubber filler plate.
This is the net result on the TOP side.
Setting the rail and rubber fill plate back in place, this is the final look with all the arms and devices in place.
The wiring from the FTM-400XD head unit was easily routed behind the OEM radio head unit, behind the AC controls, then then down and behind the center console plastic passenger side.
By next week, I'll have the CB installed behind the glove box and the CB antenna mounted to the rear tailgate via the Cool Tech LLC CB antenna mount. The FTM-400XD will be mounted below the passenger seat using the JK Innovations under-seat mount. (It was originally designed to be used for ARB's dual air compressor unit. I'm actually having the same bracket put in under the driver seat for the compressor and the same plate under the passenger seat for the ham radio.) Lastly, the ham antenna is getting mounted on the driver side hood with a Right Channel CB antenna mount which I'll get drilled out large enough to take the ham radio antenna mount. More pics to come once all this is in and running.
The view from the driver seat.
The view from the passenger seat.
The view from the front of the vehicle with the windshield down.
The solution is based around 67 Design's JL Rail Mount system. Specifically:
- The iPhone is mounted via 67 Design's universal phone holder and small carbon fiber arm.
- The GoPro is mounted va 67 Design's GoPro mount.
- The FTM-400XD's head unit is mounted via 67 Design's nano arm and Trail Dash 2 mount, then to a Lido LM-AD1 ball mount to the head unit. This allows me to easily lift off the head unit if/when I'm uncomfortable leaving the head unit in the Jeep.
- The mic for the FTM-400XD is also connected to the rail system via a small carbon fiber arm, using a JeepUniq mic holder with 20mm 67 Designs' 20mm ball mount.
- Finally, the Cobra 75 hand unit is mounted to the center stack using Cool Tech LLC's mic mount.
First challenge - identifying the power source for both the iPhone and GoPro. As some have already posted, I used the Quadratec 12 volt power adapter since this was a super-clean way of tapping into a switched power source. (Instructions for installing are well documented, so I'll not belabor them here.)
Unfortunately, the Jeep provides 12 volt power, but typical USB devices need 5 volts, so I purchased two 12v to 5v voltage step down converters and connected both to the power adapter.
Of course, I also had to get a 3' lightening to USB cable and 3' USB-C to USB-A cable for the iPhone and GoPro. (Obviously, readers would need to get the appropriate cables for their specific devices.)
My plan for drilling through the top dash required some way of getting a clean look. With that in mind, I ordered a rubber grommet assortment pack for use in cleaning up the cuts. I ordered the pack since I didn't know EXACTLY how it was going to go in.
On to the fun part... dropping the windshield, pulling the center stack and cutting through the top dash.
- I HIGHLY recommend dropping the windshield. This will allow easy access to the top of the dash, including angling the drill properly. Videos exist on doing this so I'll keep this brief. 1) remove the windshield wipers, 2) remove the freedom panels, 3) using the tool provided by Jeep, remove the 4 bolts along the top of the windshield, 4) gently lower it down onto the hood.
- Remove the plastic plate below the steering column by GENTLY pulling along the edges. Each snap will "POP" as they release... just go SLOW and don't let the sound scare you.
- Remove the AC controls panel by (again) GENTLY and SLOWLY pulling.. starting driver side since the edge is partially exposed after removing the kick panel above. NOTE: Once the first retaining clips pop out of place driver side, I suggest using a plastic panel begin removing the panel from the passenger side. (I suggest this since as I started driver side and the farthest passenger-side clip got torqued and fell off.) The pops are LOUD when pulling this off the first time. The sound is normal... just take your time.
- Remove the trim plate of the radio by: 1) removing the 1 screw holding it in place, located along the lower edge in the center, then 2) gently pull the plate away... the retaining tabs will pop as they slowly release.
- Remove the head unit by: 1) removing the 4 screws holding it in place, then 2) pull back and take a photo of all the connectors so you can remember the order they go in, then 3) disconnect each.
- Remove the lower panel of the stack by gently pulling the edges to release the retaining tabs. (No screws holding this one in place.). No need to completely remove this... just let let lean away from the dash.
To prep for drilling through the dash:
- I positioned the 67 Designs rail mount into the top dash.
- I cut the ends of the rubber filler for the top dash to fit back into the space.
- Drilling from the top, I first drilled a small pilot hole to aid the 1/2" hole I was going to drill subsequent.
- (NOTE: The soft rubber fill plate will quickly deform if you don't take your time and go easy with this.)
- After the pilot was cut, I took a deep breath and drilled the 1/2" hole.
This is the hole from the top.
Next, I used an cutting blade to clean up the "hole" through the rubber fill plate. The rubber is VERY soft, so this took some careful trimming. Given the unevenness of the cut and the thickness of the rubber fill plate being thicker than I expected, my grommets weren't going to fit as originally planned. I solved this by cutting the lip off 1 edge of the grommet, and super-gluing the grommet to the rubber fill plate.
This is the photo of the BOTTOM of the rubber filler plate.
This is the net result on the TOP side.
Setting the rail and rubber fill plate back in place, this is the final look with all the arms and devices in place.
The wiring from the FTM-400XD head unit was easily routed behind the OEM radio head unit, behind the AC controls, then then down and behind the center console plastic passenger side.
By next week, I'll have the CB installed behind the glove box and the CB antenna mounted to the rear tailgate via the Cool Tech LLC CB antenna mount. The FTM-400XD will be mounted below the passenger seat using the JK Innovations under-seat mount. (It was originally designed to be used for ARB's dual air compressor unit. I'm actually having the same bracket put in under the driver seat for the compressor and the same plate under the passenger seat for the ham radio.) Lastly, the ham antenna is getting mounted on the driver side hood with a Right Channel CB antenna mount which I'll get drilled out large enough to take the ham radio antenna mount. More pics to come once all this is in and running.
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