How to remove pitman arm? Nut is off

[gonzoflick]

My drag link end wont come off so I figured I'd take the Pittman arm off and have my machine shop press it out. I got the nut off the arm but the puller tools from auto zone won't fit in the stupidly tight space under the JL to pull the arm. No threads or you tube videos show me how to pull one from a JL. Does anyone here know?

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[Left Field]

My drag link end wont come off so I figured I'd take the Pittman arm off and have my machine shop press it out. I got the nut off the arm but the puller tools from auto zone won't fit in the stupidly tight space under the JL to pull the arm. No threads or you tube videos show me how to pull one from a JL. Does anyone here know?

Unless you need to get the pitman arm off for some reason, I'd go back to the drag link end removal - the access is much easier.

My go-to method if I want to preserve the rod end is to use cross impacts to slightly flex the joint on the end of the pitman arm, thereby releasing the bond of the tapered ball joint pin. I do this by placing a small sledge (or other heavy steel object) on one side of the arm's pin socket, and striking it with a small hammer on the opposite side, doing this from different angles however you can access it. Turning the wheels left /right can improve access.

This approach works best with a puller simultaneously providing tension, but sometimes one is not available or won't fit. If that's the case, after the above loosening technique I tap on the top of the ball joint bolt to pop it out, usually by putting on an old nut partially on to protect the threads or if not available then turning the castle nut over and buffering the blows with a small block of wood. Placing a small sledge head under the end of the pitman arm (not the ball joint itself) boosts the effectiveness and minimizes any impact load on the steering box bearings.

Sometimes I have to repeat the process a couple times but so far this method has given me a very high success rate, including on my JL.

There's a lot of clever people on this forum, by the end of this thread we'll probably both have a few new methods in our bag of tricks...

LF

 

[ym0bc1]

I used this to get drag link off, many times, easily.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

 

[gonzoflick]

Unless you need to get the pitman arm off for some reason, I'd go back to the drag link end removal - the access is much easier.

My go-to method if I want to preserve the rod end is to use cross impacts to slightly flex the joint on the end of the pitman arm, thereby releasing the bond of the tapered ball joint pin. I do this by placing a small sledge (or other heavy steel object) on one side of the arm's pin socket, and striking it with a small hammer on the opposite side, doing this from different angles however you can access it. Turning the wheels left /right can improve access.

This approach works best with a puller simultaneously providing tension, but sometimes one is not available or won't fit. If that's the case, after the above loosening technique I tap on the top of the ball joint bolt to pop it out, usually by putting on an old nut partially on to protect the threads or if not available then turning the castle nut over and buffering the blows with a small block of wood. Placing a small sledge head under the end of the pitman arm (not the ball joint itself) boosts the effectiveness and minimizes any impact load on the steering box bearings.

Sometimes I have to repeat the process a couple times but so far this method has given me a very high success rate, including on my JL.

There's a lot of clever people on this forum, by the end of this thread we'll probably both have a few new methods in our bag of tricks...

LF

I appreciate the approach but I've given up on the link. Is there no method to remove the arm itself?

 

[grimmjeeper]

I appreciate the approach but I've given up on the link. Is there no method to remove the arm itself?

You have to find a puller that fits. Get it under tension. Then whack the arm from all sides you can reach. Use a sledge if you have one. It will loosen a little so tighten the puller as it starts to move. Repeat the cycle until it comes off.

 

[Blues Fan 30]

I appreciate the approach but I've given up on the link. Is there no method to remove the arm itself?

Did the pitman arm puller not work? Haven't tried it on mine but replaced the pitman arm on my buddies JK and it was incredibly easy to remove using the puller.

 

[gonzoflick]

The pitman arm was too wide on the steering box side to fit the puller. There's literally like 1/4" clearance

 

[KHR Racing]

Where there is a will…… there is a way.

 

[RBesse3333]

My drag link end wont come off so I figured I'd take the Pittman arm off and have my machine shop press it out. I got the nut off the arm but the puller tools from auto zone won't fit in the stupidly tight space under the JL to pull the arm. No threads or you tube videos show me how to pull one from a JL. Does anyone here know?

I used a puller similar to this one: Amazon.com: OTC (1036) Mechanical Grip-O-Matic Puller - 7 Ton, Long 2 Jaw : Automotive They have a good selection of pitman arm pullers so you might find one to your liking.

I also used a pneumatic 1/2 inch impact driver set to max. It took a lot of effort to get it off and just when I was ready to give up, the pitman arm let go with a loud bang and scared the crap out of me while I was underneath holding the air gun. Putting it back on also required a very high torque spec. of 185 foot-pounds.

 

[gonzoflick]

I used this to get drag link off, many times, easily.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

I rented one of those and broke it . Drag link is seized good

 

[Upnover]

Curious why you are trying to remove it?

 

[gonzoflick]

Curious why you are trying to remove it?

Because I can't get my drag link end off

 

[Upnover]

Because I can't get my drag link end off

My bad missed that on the OP. I blame the bourbon.

I would go back to the pickle fork with sledge.

hit around the pitman arm too. Good taps not dead blows.

it was a bitch when I did mine but finally popped off.
Good luck

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