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How to make the ride more comfortable

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OreoJeep

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Probably a good idea to get an alignment and go from there. I'd imagine your caster is way low, probably in the high 3 degree area. You really want to have caster around 6 degrees to keep your Jeep tracking nice and straight without any wandering. I'm willing to bet your Jeep is hard to control at speeds over 60. Longer Lower control arms (or upper control arms) at the right length will make a huge difference at speed, and a much more enjoyable and safer drive.
Yes its hard to control at those seeds. Will the alignment fix the caster? What control arms should i get?
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Yes its hard to control at those seeds. Will the alignment fix the caster? What control arms should i get?
Alignment check (not the actual alignment service) will get you a caster reading. If you had adjustable Upper or Lower (or both) Control arms they could adjust them to get to a desired caster setting. Your stock UCAs and LCAs are fixed length. A common way to get more caster is getting the Mopar Lift LCAs which are a 1/4" longer. This will net 1.5 to 2 degrees more caster which might be enough to get you in the mid to high 5 degrees (based on your 3.5" lift), This should result in a noticeable improvement w/ high speed tracking and control. With your lift being over 2" you may be better going w/ adjustable LCAs, but if you are a DIY guy you can get the Mopar arms for about $80 and see if that gets you to a good place.

You can do that without an alignment check if you just want to up your caster, and from your post I'd be surprised if your caster was 4 or greater, and like I mentioned, getting around 6 is a good place to be :)

Here's my install post w/ part info on the LCAs
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/#post-919317
 
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OreoJeep

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Alignment check (not the actual alignment service) will get you a caster reading. If you had adjustable Upper or Lower (or both) Control arms they could adjust them to get to a desired caster setting. Your stock UCAs and LCAs are fixed length. A common way to get more caster is getting the Mopar Lift LCAs which are a 1/4" longer. This will net 1.5 to 2 degrees more caster which might be enough to get you in the mid to high 5 degrees (based on your 3.5" lift), This should result in a noticeable improvement w/ high speed tracking and control. With your lift being over 2" you may be better going w/ adjustable LCAs, but if you are a DIY guy you can get the Mopar arms for about $80 and see if that gets you to a good place.

You can do that without an alignment check if you just want to up your caster, and from your post I'd be surprised if your caster was 4 or greater, and like I mentioned, getting around 6 is a good place to be :)

Here's my install post w/ part info on the LCAs
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/#post-919317
Thx u! Very helpful. I will have to take my jeep to the shop lol!! I do very small fixes like installing an antenna lol
 

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Thx u! Very helpful. I will have to take my jeep to the shop lol!! I do very small fixes like installing an antenna lol
Maybe a fellow Jeeper on the site could lend a hand :)
 

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Are you using your factory, hubcentric 20” wheels? Or did they sell you some cheap ones?

As stated above, 20” 35s are load range E. Most will ride rough, but they should be smooth rolling, not shaking, on nice roads and highways. Have them balanced by the best guy in the shop. If any wheel takes more than 4 ounces of weight, have them break the bead and re clock the tire, then spin them on the machine again. If it’s no better have that tire replaced. If you got lug centric wheels, make sure they put the hub ring in it. Hopefully they aren’t the multi fit kind of wheels with 10 lug holes. Even if they balance out perfectly and roll smooth, expansion joints and potholes are going to be hard hits.

Rough Country is, well, rough. They are very basic lifts without any of the other parts that make it ride and function well. That’s why they are cheap. Generally, you get what you pay for.
 

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A couple of things. The shocks control damping (shock absorbing) and the tire sidewall provides some flex. You probably have the worst of both.

No offense, but whoever talked you into 20” wheels and tires did you a huge disservice. Your tires have very little sidewall, therefore very little flex, even if they were “C” load tires, which they are probably “E”. If they are “E”, they are built with stiff sidewalls. Putting an “E” load tire on a 20” wheel is the worst combination for on road ride.

You can run less air, probably 30 lbs, but even with 30 lbs in the tires, the lack of sidewall (20” wheels) and stiff sidewalls will mean your shocks have to do all of the damping, and you just can’t get a good ride out of the suspension when you start with where the rubber meets the road being that stiff. You would be better served to sell the 20” wheels, buy some 17” wheels and some load “C” or “D” tires. It’ll be night and day.

Then, when that’s taken care of you can buy some better shocks to better control the on road damping.
 

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These threads are becoming more common. I really wish people would do more research before buying.

Okay, for some constructive feedback... The lift you have leaves quite a bit to be desired, even for street use. You need to correct your caster angle. Longer lower control arms, or angle correction brackets. Every manufacturer makes longer or adjustable lower control arms for a very good reason. Angle correction brackets can be found by a handful of different manufacturers now, and work well for street Jeeps. In the long term you will also need to correct the left/right location of your axles with a set of adjustable track bars. The other thing that is killing the way it rides is the tires and wheels. The sidewall of your tires are a crucial part of your vehicles suspension. Reducing the amount of sidewall you have with 20" wheels and stiffening it with a high load range is going to ride rough. Tires are supposed to squish and deform slightly when contacting the imperfections in the road. So the last thing you want to do is to limit its ability to do that.
 

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I’m guessing his Jeep still has the factory shocks with spacers.
 
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How did you get into this mess ? :facepalm: You haven't said some important info that has me wondering. Is there someplace/someone to complain to about what they sold you ? Did you chose the lift, wheels and tires yourself. Can You swap back to stock? Swapping to Rubicon take off's is going to give you a better ride.
You have gotten some good advice...
Your lift is too tall for 35's and the incomplete kit is causing steering issues.
Your 20" wheels with "E" rated tires have stiff sidewalls and a much higher load rating than needed which makes for a harsh ride. You can only let out so much air before the low pressure starts effecting uneven tread wear.
IMHO, bottom line is you will not be able to get the ride you want with the lift, wheels and tires you now have. Live with it or replace.
The place asked me what i wanted and i told them and they sold it to me. The only thing they mentioned was the lift being high it might ride different because of the height.
 

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These threads are becoming more common. I really wish people would do more research before buying.

Okay, for some constructive feedback... The lift you have leaves quite a bit to be desired, even for street use. You need to correct your caster angle. Longer lower control arms, or angle correction brackets. Every manufacturer makes longer or adjustable lower control arms for a very good reason. Angle correction brackets can be found by a handful of different manufacturers now, and work well for street Jeeps. In the long term you will also need to correct the left/right location of your axles with a set of adjustable track bars. The other thing that is killing the way it rides is the tires and wheels. The sidewall of your tires are a crucial part of your vehicles suspension. Reducing the amount of sidewall you have with 20" wheels and stiffening it with a high load range is going to ride rough. Tires are supposed to squish and deform slightly when contacting the imperfections in the road. So the last thing you want to do is to limit its ability to do that.
Thx u!
 
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OreoJeep

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A couple of things. The shocks control damping (shock absorbing) and the tire sidewall provides some flex. You probably have the worst of both.

No offense, but whoever talked you into 20” wheels and tires did you a huge disservice. Your tires have very little sidewall, therefore very little flex, even if they were “C” load tires, which they are probably “E”. If they are “E”, they are built with stiff sidewalls. Putting an “E” load tire on a 20” wheel is the worst combination for on road ride.

You can run less air, probably 30 lbs, but even with 30 lbs in the tires, the lack of sidewall (20” wheels) and stiff sidewalls will mean your shocks have to do all of the damping, and you just can’t get a good ride out of the suspension when you start with where the rubber meets the road being that stiff. You would be better served to sell the 20” wheels, buy some 17” wheels and some load “C” or “D” tires. It’ll be night and day.

Then, when that’s taken care of you can buy some better shocks to better control the on road damping.
Good info. How do i know if my tires are e, c or d? The shop said these cooper tires are better than the nitto that i was going to originally get
 

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What do they say on the side, 315/60/20 E , 35x12.5x20 E ?

I'm just wondering, did you move to California from Florida?
 
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OreoJeep

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What do they say on the side, 315/60/20 E , 35x12.5x20 E ?

I'm just wondering, did you move to California from Florida?
Ill check after work. The picture i have of them doesnt show me.

no i did not
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