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How much weight added vs. MPG...2.0t specific

guarnibl

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4.88’s and 8th is now back...

If I draft on the freeway, I can get into the 20’s even fully loaded (add another 600lbs of gear, food water etc).

Around town and normal driving, 15-18 in LA traffic. Depending how heavy my foot is.

Wind is the enemy, not weight. None of these people who comment normalize for wind. If I get a headwind, I lose 5+ mpg and the opposite for a tailwind or (safely) drafting a larger vehicle.
Great point on the wind.

What were you getting prior to 4.88's though? That wheel tire combo is about the same weight as mine. How much clearance do you have from top of tire to bottom of fender? I am at 8 3/4" -- we have a very similar setup, the big variable (unknown) is the actual amount of lift, tread pattern, and 4.88's... yet my mileage is a few below yours (13-14 vs 15-18). I haven't tried drafting... highway going 60-65 if there is no wind whatsoever I am getting 16-17 at the absolute highest assuming completely flat.
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ProjectJL

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Great point on the wind.

What were you getting prior to 4.88's though? That wheel tire combo is about the same weight as mine.
Gained about 3-6 MPG freeway. Probably similar around town but it’s too much fun to actually beat people at lights with 4.88’s again...

I didn’t “need” it per se but it was 100% worthwhile. I did upgrade driveshafts at the same time so your gains may be more potentially if you don’t do those. Also I did the FAD delete with the RCV’s but I’ve been told that’s negligible. Maybe 1/2 MPG, more for CAFE purposes.

Also, gears should be like $1,500 installed, even from a top shop. If someone said 2,500 even with driveshafts, that’s not cheap.

I was going to Rubicon so this was my last step of bulletproofing.
 

guarnibl

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Gained about 3-6 MPG freeway. Probably similar around town but it’s too much fun to actually beat people at lights with 4.88’s again...

I didn’t “need” it per se but it was 100% worthwhile. I did upgrade driveshafts at the same time so your gains may be more potentially if you don’t do those. Also I did the FAD delete with the RCV’s but I’ve been told that’s negligible. Maybe 1/2 MPG, more for CAFE purposes.

Also, gears should be like $1,500 installed, even from a top shop. If someone said 2,500 even with driveshafts, that’s not cheap.

I was going to Rubicon so this was my last step of bulletproofing.
Wow. 3-6 mpg for $1500 -- I think I would consider that. It would pay for itself in a year 1/2 easily. $2500 is with drive shafts. I cheaped out on regear once in the JK. Never again. I probably wouldn't need drive shafts though
 

ProjectJL

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Wow. 3-6 mpg for $1500 -- I think I would consider that. It would pay for itself in a year 1/2 easily. $2500 is with drive shafts. I cheaped out on regear once in the JK. Never again. I probably wouldn't need drive shafts though
I was encouraged to do it all at once because they upgrade everything in the entire chain.

If you offroad, I would highly recommend RCV’s also. Amazing difference on and off road.
 

guarnibl

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I was encouraged to do it all at once because they upgrade everything in the entire chain.

If you offroad, I would highly recommend RCV’s also. Amazing difference on and off road.
Yep makes sense. If I was keeping this vehicle long term I would have as well, but I want a different color at some point. Cost difference for me in gas right now is about $95/month. Not terrible. I'm also a bit hesitant to make the R&P weaker. I'll likely just keep it how it is until I trade it when the EcoDiesel is available.
 

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ProjectJL

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Yep makes sense. If I was keeping this vehicle long term I would have as well, but I want a different color at some point. Cost difference for me in gas right now is about $95/month. Not terrible. I'm also a bit hesitant to make the R&P weaker. I'll likely just keep it how it is until I trade it when the EcoDiesel is available
I wouldn’t be concerned about the R&P. The guys breaking are running 5.38’s.
 

guarnibl

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I wouldn’t be concerned about the R&P. The guys breaking are running 5.38’s.
That's what happened to my rear 44 in my JK on 37's after only 6 months :) Still weakens it, but may not be enough to chew it up in this case.

Overall I am back and forth on the regear. We'll see. Power wise it's actually fine as-is -- cannot tell the difference from stock. The mpg sitting at 13 just messes with my head. ~250-300 miles to a tank is still plenty of range though.
 

ProjectJL

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That's what happened to my rear 44 in my JK on 37's after only 6 months :) Still weakens it, but may not be enough to chew it up in this case.

Overall I am back and forth on the regear. We'll see. Power wise it's actually fine as-is -- cannot tell the difference from stock. The mpg sitting at 13 just messes with my head. ~250-300 miles to a tank is still plenty of range though.
Like I mentioned, unlike some will claim, you can drive it just fine with 4.10’s. You will just enjoy 4.8/ more :).

Eventually this thing is getting a Hellcat or a Demon swap once it’s out of warranty. Then I’ll do axles etc.
 

guarnibl

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Like I mentioned, unlike some will claim, you can drive it just fine with 4.10’s. You will just enjoy 4.8/ more :).

Eventually this thing is getting a Hellcat or a Demon swap once it’s out of warranty. Then I’ll do axles etc.
Yep! Agreed.

That'll be fun. I have an LS7 with 2.9 Whipple in my JK. Gas mileage may be slightly worse in that one :)
 

ProjectJL

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Yep! Agreed.

That'll be fun. I have an LS7 with 2.9 Whipple in my JK. Gas mileage may be slightly worse in that one :)
We were with a Hemi swapped JK on Rubicon and I joked that it was was GPM vs MPG. That said, smiles per mile was maxed.
 

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guarnibl

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We were with a Hemi swapped JK on Rubicon and I joked that it was was GPM vs MPG. That said, smiles per mile was maxed.
Exactly! I get 5 mpg in the JK, which is pretty decent for 1000 horse on 42's :)
 

ormandj

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That's what happened to my rear 44 in my JK on 37's after only 6 months :) Still weakens it, but may not be enough to chew it up in this case.

Overall I am back and forth on the regear. We'll see. Power wise it's actually fine as-is -- cannot tell the difference from stock. The mpg sitting at 13 just messes with my head. ~250-300 miles to a tank is still plenty of range though.
I get 14-16 with mixed usage with no lift an 35" Nitto RGs and a winch in a JLUR 2.0 (19/BSG). I wouldn't sweat 13mpg with your setup. I can crack 18-20 on the highway if I keep it below 70, which is never in TX.

A lot of people with the great mileage on 37s and lifts and a re-gear aren't measuring via pump and relying on the computer which is generally 1-2mpg high, and driving 60mph on the highway with a tailwind while drafting behind a semi. Sum total - take mpg results on this forum lightly, I don't ever find the numbers to be realistic.
 

guarnibl

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I get 14-16 with mixed usage with no lift an 35" Nitto RGs and a winch in a JLUR 2.0 (19/BSG). I wouldn't sweat 13mpg with your setup. I can crack 18-20 on the highway if I keep it below 70, which is never in TX.

A lot of people with the great mileage on 37s and lifts and a re-gear aren't measuring via pump and relying on the computer which is generally 1-2mpg high, and driving 60mph on the highway with a tailwind while drafting behind a semi. Sum total - take mpg results on this forum lightly, I don't ever find the numbers to be realistic.
14-16 on heavy 35's and winch with no lift make me feel a bit better :) The only time I see the numbers 18-20 pop on the screen is if I'm going downhill, going 50 hah.

My computer actually reads low. I was 1.8 mpg higher hand calculated. It's programmed correctly for tire size though, double checked with GPS app.
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