How hard to change a steering box?

[Halstem1]

Just curious from those with experience or tech knowledge, how hard is it to change the steering gear box out? I can keep fighting with a warranty claim or it appears you can order a new AE series gear box for 250$ and return your core. If I could change myself, I might just do it for 250$. I just don't know how difficult that would be.
Is pulling the pitman arm difficult? How about the lines for the power steering fluid? The rest looks like a couple bolts and taking the drag link back off.

Multiple websites for mopar parts that offer at this price with a 75$ core charge. Do you think the cores are being rebuilt or adjusted when they go back in? I would assume there is some process of re-building before they are sold again. On my YJ, almost all parts back then were refurbished parts.

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[limeade]

I removed my steering box and put it back in, didn't have to take off the pitman arm though. Here's how my removal and reinstallation went and what you will probably have to do:

Secure the steering wheel with wheels pointed straight by using a tie down strap, rope or similar device to keep the steering wheel from turning once the steering shaft is disconnected. I tied my steering wheel off to the seat brackets. If you forget this step, you stand a very good chance of the steering wheel turning and breaking the clock spring. You don't want that to happen!

You'll want to remove the front driver tire and inner wheel well liner.

Remove drag link

Remove pitman with a pitman arm puller. This could be the hardest part, make sure you have a quality puller and maybe spray the splines down with PB Blaster or some other penetrating lubricant. Also identify it's orientation for when you re-assemble it on the new box. I've only ever done a steering box swap once years ago on an XJ. I "think" that box came with the pitman arm spline set at the 12 o'clock position so when I put the pitman arm back on everything was lined up. I suppose you could also remove the pitman arm once the steering box is out. That way you can have the new box lined up with the old one, which might help for proper pitman arm orientation.

Remove the bolt from where the intermediate shaft slips onto the gear box joint. This is covered by a rubber boot. You can see this bolt from wheel well area and can get to it by using a ratchet and extensions. Once this bolt is removed, push the intermediate shaft back towards the firewall and it will collapse a few inches and come free from the steering box joint. If you have a 2.0T, you'll need to remove the mounting clamp for a coolant pump and push the pump out of the way. I did not disconnect the fluid line to the pump as I was able to move it out of the way.

Remove the two power steering fluid lines from the top of the box. Use flare nut wrenches (metric, not sure which size) to loosen the lines. Once they're loose, feel free to use regular box end wrenches to make it go quicker. If you try to use box end wrenches to loosen (and for final tightening), you can round of the nuts. Fluid will drip out of these lines, so either tape on some baggies, have a couple containers handy, or have some rubber caps to put over the ends. You can get to the lines again by through the wheel well or from the top of the engine bay. You might have to remove the washer fluid reservoir and some electrical items to gain access from the top. For a 2.0T, there's 2 coolant reservoirs you may have to remove too. All of these items are pretty easy to R&R and all of the electrical connections are self explanatory.

Remove the 4 bolts holding the steering box on and remove the box. The presence of the front coil spring may make it difficult to get to all the bolts. I did this with my spring removed as I was installing a lift and had removed the stock springs. I don't think it will drop right out. I had to move it around for clearance before it would drop free.

Re-install in reverse order. The power steering fluid lines can be a pain to get on and off as there's not a lot of room to turn the wrench. Just be patient and cuss a lot! Don't crank down on them, just want them snug and a little more. Definitely check for leaks when you're done. I've heard the bolt for the intermediate shaft should be replaced, but I used the same one.

The most tricky part will be getting the pitman arm matched up so you have equal turns left to right. I'd count how many times you can turn the wheel to the left and then to the right (from wheels pointing straight) so you have a reference on reinstallation. Someone else may have a more scientific method in getting the pitman arm re-installed in the correct fashion. The times where I've swapped out pitman arms, I pressed it on as far as it would go and then used the pitman arm nut to drive it completely on. When you know the pitman arm is on correctly, take the nut back off and apply red loctite to it.

If you've thought of installing a Synergy (or other) sector shaft/track bar brace, this is the absolute best time to do it!

Good luck.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Not hard. Pull the entire drivers fender. Pop off the drag link. Two lines, and the steering shaft bolt. 4 bolts and it comes out. I’d pull the pitman arm off on a work bench or just order a new one. Since these are so new, shouldn’t be to bad to remove. They can only go back on a couple ways so just be mindful it’s position. Maybe two hours to do it. Can’t remeber if you need to move the windshield washer reservoir for it or if that’s just for the psc. Check out the psc video from bleepnjeep

brett

 

[Cthehentz]

Just curious from those with experience or tech knowledge, how hard is it to change the steering gear box out? I can keep fighting with a warranty claim or it appears you can order a new AE series gear box for 250$ and return your core. If I could change myself, I might just do it for 250$. I just don't know how difficult that would be.
Is pulling the pitman arm difficult? How about the lines for the power steering fluid? The rest looks like a couple bolts and taking the drag link back off.

Multiple websites for mopar parts that offer at this price with a 75$ core charge. Do you think the cores are being rebuilt or adjusted when they go back in? I would assume there is some process of re-building before they are sold again. On my YJ, almost all parts back then were refurbished parts.

What is the new updated part number for the steering gear box?

 

[Halstem1]

What is the new updated part number for the steering gear box?

I don’t think it’s an “updated” part number. The AE version has been out for a year So not sure it’s “new” either. Many claim it is has no significant changes to driving manners. But the most current part number for a 4 door 3.6 is 68250506AE.

 

[limeade]

One thing I forgot to mention. If you do the swap, you'll have to top off and bleed the power steering system since you disconnected the lines. Mopar recommends their specific power steering fluid, the typical PS fluid is not recommended.

To bleed the system, I like to raise the front axle and support on jack stands, ensuring your jack stands don't block the tires from turning. After topping off the reservoir, start engine, and move steering wheel lock to lock until system is bled. Similar to a brake bleed, the system will vent the trapped air into the reservoir. Add fluid as needed during this and the system is bled once you stop seeing air bubbles. I find it helpful to have a spouse/friend/child work the steering wheel while I watch the fluid in the reservoir. It's ok to have the cap off during this as you can see any air bubbles in the fluid. Make sure it's topped off to the correct max fill line (cold /hot) and you're done.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

All, what Pitman Arm removal tool are you using? I can't seem to locate one that's a full 3 inches. It looks like AutoZone may have a loaner that will work, though I can't validate that they actually have what's showing on their website. I

'm really struggling to get my @steersmarts Drag Link separated from the Pitman Arm. I thought if I could get the Pitman arm off while the old steering box is still installed, I could use a BFH and my Pickle Tool, or possibly one of the tie rod removal tools I bought today. This is a PITA!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

All, what Pitman Arm removal tool are you using? I can't seem to locate one that's a full 3 inches. It looks like AutoZone may have a loaner that will work, though I can't validate that they actually have what's showing on their website. I

'm really struggling to get my @steersmarts Drag Link separated from the Pitman Arm. I thought if I could get the Pitman arm off while the old steering box is still installed, I could use a BFH and my Pickle Tool, or possibly one of the tie rod removal tools I bought today. This is a PITA!

THE answer: Loaner Tool from AutoZone

 

[CJ-JLURXR]

What is the torque on the pitman nut?

 

[JLR_AEV]

Did anyone in this thread that changed their steering box to the need to remove their skid plate/front bumper? I may have missed it but curious if it was changed without removing the bumper/skid plate. My Jeep is at the dealer and they are trying to charge me for having an AEV front bumper -_-

 

[Mikepa]

Did anyone in this thread that changed their steering box to the need to remove their skid plate/front bumper? I may have missed it but curious if it was changed without removing the bumper/skid plate. My Jeep is at the dealer and they are trying to charge me for having an AEV front bumper -_-

Not with stock steel stubby. And of all front bumper mfg’s, AEV is sold and installed by many Jeep dealerships. They’re practically family.

 

[JLR_AEV]

Not with stock steel stubby. And of all front bumper mfg’s, AEV is sold and installed by many Jeep dealerships. They’re practically family.

Hmmmmm true.
If anything they will just need to remove the skid plate but that certainly does not take 2 hours worth of labor. I haven't spoken to the dealer about this yet as I want them to do the work first but man that is frustrating

 

[Mikepa]

Hmmmmm true.
If anything they will just need to remove the skid plate but that certainly does not take 2 hours worth of labor. I haven't spoken to the dealer about this yet as I want them to do the work first but man that is frustrating

Maybe not re: skid. No need to remove my metal cloak for the change.

 

[JLR_AEV]

Update: Just got it from the dealer after having them change the steering gear for TSB update

Steering feels loose when turning the wheel to the right and feels tight when turning steering left.

The manager mentioned it might be a bad steering gear or either needs to be 'broken in' -_-

Anyone experience this after updating your steering gear? Perhaps they didn't tighten something all the way or is loose?

 

[Mikepa]

Update: Just got it from the dealer after having them change the steering gear for TSB update

Steering feels loose when turning the wheel to the right and feels tight when turning steering left.

The manager mentioned it might be a bad steering gear or either needs to be 'broken in' -_-

Anyone experience this after updating your steering gear? Perhaps they didn't tighten something all the way or is loose?

No. My replacement did not show such signs. Almost sounds like steering damper is not centered correctly. Can you post a picture of your steering linkage? Another thought is they did not reprogram after box install which some people here have seen issues with.

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