Honest JLU Sport S lease pricing?

[G_Math]

Hi all, I'm new to the leasing game, and was wondering if the currently listed lease prices for the 2018 JKU Sport S are any indicator of what I would expect for a payment on a JLU Sport S?

I've heard the JLs have a slightly higher residual from the JK.



1. With good credit, and similar money down (2499 due at signing as advertised), would I expect to get close to that payment? The difference in MSRP is 2600.00. The advertised lease rate is 216 for the JKU Sport S

I'm new to this game and forum and would like to know what others are experiencing. I'm trying to figure out what numbers are realistic before further researching and preparing myself to more efficiently vet the sales departments of various dealers. I've learned a little on the forums, but at this point I'm far from organized.

Any and all insights are appreciated! I'm excited although I have a way to go before I have something to drive. Cheers.

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[ThirtyOne]

I would recommend getting a lease calculator and punching in the numbers to get a realistic price.

Use Leasematic for iPhone. You can use .00193 if you have a good credit for the money factor and use this table for residuals:

Could someone check if the lease numbers have been released since its January?

This will give you a guide. Some dealers use other banks so the deal may be a little different but it will give you a ballpark.

The thing to remember is to negotiate the car price first then talk about the lease. Selling price will have a big impact on lease payment. Then get the residual and money factor and check them yourself.

It is hard to generalize but most good Sport S leases I have seen are in the low $300s. But state taxes and down payment can make a big difference.

If you want to get feedback on a specific deal post it here or PM me.

 

[suggsc24]

Hi all, I'm new to the leasing game, and was wondering if the currently listed lease prices for the 2018 JKU Sport S are any indicator of what I would expect for a payment on a JLU Sport S?

I've heard the JLs have a slightly higher residual from the JK.


1. With good credit, and similar money down (2499 due at signing as advertised), would I expect to get close to that payment? The difference in MSRP is 2600.00. The advertised lease rate is 216 for the JKU Sport S

I'm new to this game and forum and would like to know what others are experiencing. I'm trying to figure out what numbers are realistic before further researching and preparing myself to more efficiently vet the sales departments of various dealers. I've learned a little on the forums, but at this point I'm far from organized.

Any and all insights are appreciated! I'm excited although I have a way to go before I have something to drive. Cheers.

JLU Sport S:
Technology a Group, Convenience Group, Auto Transmission, and Hard Top
Sticker Price $39,375
Traded in lease with 12 months remaining and negative equity
$372 for 42 months with no money down

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

JLU Sport S:
Technology a Group, Convenience Group, Auto Transmission, and Hard Top
Sticker Price $39,375
Traded in lease with 12 months remaining and negative equity
$372 for 42 months with no money down

I have the same Sport S.


39mo 12,000mi/yr

$1500 down, $300/mo.


It started at $337/mo with incentives, I countered with $290/mo, they recountered at $326, I said no more than $300 or I’m walking....and bam, $300/mo. That was my target walking in. I wanted $300, but was expecting (and probably would have accepted) anything up to $325. This was the first time I negotiated on the monthly payment rather than the sticker price.

That is right in line with my last two leases with DCA/ FCA. A 2008 JK with a sticker of $21,500, knocked down to $18,500 (previous model year leftover, and a bare bones X in...yellow...). Traded in a $4000 valued camaro plus $1000 cash and got it for $149/mo with the same terms. The JL is twice the value of that JK, and has twice the payment, but without all of that money down.

The other lease was a 2015 Challenger R/T. $36,000 sticker reduced to $32,000, $1000 down, $270/mo, same terms. Residual value very similar to what the JL depreciation was. ($36k sticker on the R/T, RV of $26.5k; $39.5k sticker on the JL, RV of $28.5k) The 2008 JK had a way out of whack residual value. $21.5k, RV of only $13k. I ended up trading that into a Chevrolet dealer instead of buying it (it was a mess of quality related mechanical issues) and they gave me $3000 cash for it....out of a lease turn in! (Jeep wanted me to pay $3500 to fix the mech issues, LOL NOPE). Chevrolet put it on their lot with a sticker of $21,500 and it was gone in a week (probably for around what I leased it new for). So I figure that JK was the first and only new car I’ll ever own that actually appreciated in value. All I did to it was put on a mopar steel bumper ($100 on Craig’s list), rubicon wheels and MT tire take-offs ($800 on Craig’s list), and $200 of Craig’s listed KC lights. It looked like a $30,000 Jeep....but it was just a crank window, manual trans, soft top X with 3.21 gears. Someone got suckered on that one.....

 

[bzjeep]

JLU Sport S:
Technology a Group, Convenience Group, Auto Transmission, and Hard Top
Sticker Price $39,375
Traded in lease with 12 months remaining and negative equity
$372 for 42 months with no money down

Chris, I'm in a similar boat; however, I have less time left on my lease. If you don't mind, would you send me a PM with some more details on the particular deal you got such as selling price and how much negative equity you rolled in to the new lease?

 

[G_Math]

I would recommend getting a lease calculator and punching in the numbers to get a realistic price.

Use Leasematic for iPhone. You can use .00193 if you have a good credit for the money factor and use this table for residuals:

Could someone check if the lease numbers have been released since its January?

This will give you a guide. Some dealers use other banks so the deal may be a little different but it will give you a ballpark.

The thing to remember is to negotiate the car price first then talk about the lease. Selling price will have a big impact on lease payment. Then get the residual and money factor and check them yourself.

It is hard to generalize but most good Sport S leases I have seen are in the low $300s. But state taxes and down payment can make a big difference.

If you want to get feedback on a specific deal post it here or PM me.

Thanks! Getting ready to shop around later this week. I drove 20 miles to one dealer last week and they didn't have any jls after telling me they did over the phone.

 

[HAM]

So, I decided to take some time and get a lease quote for a Sport S. I was able to get them down to 3% below invoice, I'm good with that. However, they told me the money factor was .00375 for tier 1 credit. And that the residual was 85%!! 36mos/12k year. Payment was right around $400 a month with 0 down. I was told repeatedly that the residual and the money factor is something they had no control over. Does this seem right to you all?

 

[HAM]

Also, I'm new to the idea of leasing, but is the MF or residual negotiable?

 

[Jcaron9gt4]

So, I decided to take some time and get a lease quote for a Sport S. I was able to get them down to 3% below invoice, I'm good with that. However, they told me the money factor was .00375 for tier 1 credit. And that the residual was 85%!! 36mos/12k year. Payment was right around $400 a month with 0 down. I was told repeatedly that the residual and the money factor is something they had no control over. Does this seem right to you all?

$400 a month seems right for the residual and MF you provided (based on assumed selling price for a sport with some options). However, 85% and .00375 are both horrific numbers for a lease, especially with tier 1. That's an interest rate of 9% and an insanely high residual. I would walk away from that dealership. Actually, run.

 

[ThirtyOne]

So, I decided to take some time and get a lease quote for a Sport S. I was able to get them down to 3% below invoice, I'm good with that. However, they told me the money factor was .00375 for tier 1 credit. And that the residual was 85%!! 36mos/12k year. Payment was right around $400 a month with 0 down. I was told repeatedly that the residual and the money factor is something they had no control over. Does this seem right to you all?

This is probably an Ally lease. They tend to have higher money factors but also higher residuals. Sometimes that will get to a lower payment.

The residual is not negotiable. The money factor the dealers can add margin to but there is a point where it is not negotiable. There are different lease banks and they have different programs so you can get different quotes. But generally a dealer will just pick the one that gives the lowest payment because that is what most lease buyers care about the most.

I would take the same numbers and run it through a lease calculator with a standard Chrysler deal and see where the payment comes out.

 

[Cypher]

I

This is probably an Ally lease. They tend to have higher money factors but also higher residuals. Sometimes that will get to a lower payment.

The residual is not negotiable. The money factor the dealers can add margin to but there is a point where it is not negotiable. There are different lease banks and they have different programs so you can get different quotes. But generally a dealer will just pick the one that gives the lowest payment because that is what most lease buyers care about the most.

I would take the same numbers and run it through a lease calculator with a standard Chrysler deal and see where the payment comes out.

If that was Ally, I would run. My WK2 Trailhawk was there, and getting anything down me with this was tough at best. Even 3 weeks after it was paid in full, and no longer showing on my account they refused to send me the no interest letter showing that I no longer had it. Customer service is always offshore (normally I am fine with that, I’m this case they are rude) and made it tougher. Their email based customer service is better, but still no help.

When you want to sell, or trade into a dealership, they refuse to tell you what the buyout is. They will only tell the dealer. So you have no idea if your getting a good offer or not from the dealership. Luckily mine was honest and showed me the paper. Others may not.

I have leased many vehicles, going through Ally was a nightmare, and nothing like the others.

 

[HAM]

So how do you go about finding a dealership that will lease through Chrysler? I've only been to the one so far, can you request Chrysler to finance the lease? I'm going to get some other lease quotes tomorrow, but may just end up buying.

 

[ThirtyOne]

So how do you go about finding a dealership that will lease through Chrysler? I've only been to the one so far, can you request Chrysler to finance the lease? I'm going to get some other lease quotes tomorrow, but may just end up buying.

It depends on the dealer. It's another variable you have to deal with on a lease. I just ask the dealers what leasing bank they use.

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