blnewt
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Brad
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2018
- Threads
- 97
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- 9,886
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- Location
- New Mexico
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Jeep JL V6 SportS, (Retired 74 CJ-5, 80 CJ-7)
- Occupation
- Just ask @cosine he knows!
- Thread starter
- #1
Lots of folks suggest using hockey pucks for bump stops. Never found a thread on the site w/ the details, it's simple enough but thought it may help those that haven't done this or considered pucks for bump stops.
Thanks to @Roky for suggesting bolting them on, there's others that have used adhesive to hold them to the pads w/ success, but having them bolted on takes away the chance that they may pop off (and probably at the worst possible time)
I wanted a flush mount so I used a spade bit, 3/8 drill bit, tapered boat washers (had some left over after my skid plate project), M10x1.50 thread 2" flat head hex bolts, flange nuts. I highly recommend using flange nuts, makes it much easier to have them setting in the box end wrench while you get it initially threaded. You could also use regular hex bolts w/ flat washers & flange nuts.
Just clamp the puck and drill the spade bit down the height of the washer. If you use hex bolts just drill down to the height of the bolt head and flat washer you'd use instead of what I did. Drill through the puck w/ a 3/8" bit. Put some blue loctite on the bolt threads. I needed a 1 1/4" spade bit but didn't have it so I used a hole saw first, then this smaller 1 1/8" spade bit to get most of the "guts out" of the center, lol.
Jack up one side at a time at the rear mount of the front control arm to decompress the spring enough to slip the puck in there and also room for a socket ratchet. The driver side is easy to get access under the pad to tighten the puck up, the passenger side has a wire/hose bracket that should be unbolted and moved aside to allow more room. You may want to remove the passenger lower shock bolt to allow more room. I didn't remove the shock and got it tightened up ok, but was pretty tight in there.
I highly recommend a flex head ratcheting box end wrench, this combined w/ the flange nut makes it easier to get that nut threaded. Remember to use that blue loctite on the bolt threads!!!
Haven't had any contact w/ my inner rear fenders, probably because I don't disconnect the rear sway links, so I won't add the rear stops at this point. I will be running 35s soon so hopefully the 1" pucks will be enough (I had very light scuffing on my front fender liners from my last wheeling trip). If I need more stop I have an electric turkey knife that I use for cutting foam so that should work ok for cutting a puck in half for an additional 1/2" stop if needed. If I need more than that I would need longer bolts (probably a 2 1/2").
Thanks to @Roky for suggesting bolting them on, there's others that have used adhesive to hold them to the pads w/ success, but having them bolted on takes away the chance that they may pop off (and probably at the worst possible time)
I wanted a flush mount so I used a spade bit, 3/8 drill bit, tapered boat washers (had some left over after my skid plate project), M10x1.50 thread 2" flat head hex bolts, flange nuts. I highly recommend using flange nuts, makes it much easier to have them setting in the box end wrench while you get it initially threaded. You could also use regular hex bolts w/ flat washers & flange nuts.
Just clamp the puck and drill the spade bit down the height of the washer. If you use hex bolts just drill down to the height of the bolt head and flat washer you'd use instead of what I did. Drill through the puck w/ a 3/8" bit. Put some blue loctite on the bolt threads. I needed a 1 1/4" spade bit but didn't have it so I used a hole saw first, then this smaller 1 1/8" spade bit to get most of the "guts out" of the center, lol.
Jack up one side at a time at the rear mount of the front control arm to decompress the spring enough to slip the puck in there and also room for a socket ratchet. The driver side is easy to get access under the pad to tighten the puck up, the passenger side has a wire/hose bracket that should be unbolted and moved aside to allow more room. You may want to remove the passenger lower shock bolt to allow more room. I didn't remove the shock and got it tightened up ok, but was pretty tight in there.
I highly recommend a flex head ratcheting box end wrench, this combined w/ the flange nut makes it easier to get that nut threaded. Remember to use that blue loctite on the bolt threads!!!
Haven't had any contact w/ my inner rear fenders, probably because I don't disconnect the rear sway links, so I won't add the rear stops at this point. I will be running 35s soon so hopefully the 1" pucks will be enough (I had very light scuffing on my front fender liners from my last wheeling trip). If I need more stop I have an electric turkey knife that I use for cutting foam so that should work ok for cutting a puck in half for an additional 1/2" stop if needed. If I need more than that I would need longer bolts (probably a 2 1/2").
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