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Help with Metalcloak Undercloak skid plate!

Terrymo

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I am just finishing this project on a 23 JLUR.

As others have said in this thread, no need to remove the fenders. For removal, the factory bolts on the drivers side motor mount can be accessed from the top in the engine bay. You will need about 30 inches of socket extensions. You will see the bolts inboard of the drive shaft.

For removal and installation, the passenger side bolts can be accessed form underneath the vehicle using 13mm and 17mm flex head ratchet wrenches.

I was missing hardware and one of the engine skid plate to motor mount brackets. I bought hardware locally and Metalcloak sent the missing bracket. The instructions are incomplete and there are no torque specs. I did have to trim the factory gas tank skid around the back bolt to get the new skid to mount correctly.

7FB5BC3D-1EF5-4299-A8A3-3A8B83EE5CF8.jpeg
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Terrymo

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Drivers side motor mount bolts locking from front bumper toward the firewall
4CFE954A-D710-46A6-A98B-D0C90847748D.jpeg
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ATTACH=full]692964[/ATTACH]

14EC3368-8592-4BBF-BFCA-F3297DCAF579.jpeg
 

Terrymo

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A couple of pics to show the difference between the front and middle style of mounting points on the Metalcloak gas tank skid at the frame vs the rear mounting point.

Front and middle configuration. You can see the black factory gas tank skid sandwiched between the gold Metalcloak skid and the frame. There is a winged flange surrounding the factory skid bolts that needs to be removed at the rear mounting point to allow it to sit flush.
Front and middle mounting points look like this
CF19316B-530D-4E0B-9D30-C4AF820B39FA.jpeg

Rear mounting point looks like this
9B98EE00-B7AB-42DB-886E-F5AC3CE9C478.jpeg
 

Terrymo

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Prior to installing the Metalcloak battery skid over the factory battery skid I cut part of the factory battery skid off to prevent the Metalcloak skid from putting upward pressure on the lines attached to the factory skid. Cut shown in yellow
F6754796-A7FF-4076-99DD-2D7A4DC2E879.jpeg
 

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JJsJL

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Prior to installing the Metalcloak battery skid over the factory battery skid I cut part of the factory battery skid off to prevent the Metalcloak skid from putting upward pressure on the lines attached to the factory skid. Cut shown in yellow
Jeep Wrangler JL Help with Metalcloak Undercloak skid plate! F6754796-A7FF-4076-99DD-2D7A4DC2E879
I’ve been considering the same skid system on my 22 JLUXR. This is helpful. Do you by chance have an aftermarket front DS? I feel like on a lot of them the front joint needs greased. Wasn’t sure if there was access with the skids or if the transfer case skid would need removed each time.
 

Terrymo

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Nope, all stock. I don’t have the knowledge to answer this, but Metalcloak has great customer service and could help with your question.
 

JMP

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Prior to installing the Metalcloak battery skid over the factory battery skid I cut part of the factory battery skid off to prevent the Metalcloak skid from putting upward pressure on the lines attached to the factory skid. Cut shown in yellow
Jeep Wrangler JL Help with Metalcloak Undercloak skid plate! F6754796-A7FF-4076-99DD-2D7A4DC2E879
I’m out of town and trying to visualize this in my head. Does this leave the factory skid free floating, or does it get zip-tied to that box that bolts into the top of the battery skid? What happens here?
 

Terrymo

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The piece I removed is not the only attachment point for the factory skid. Yes the support bracket/box attached to the Metalcloak skid now supports this end of the factory skid that has the cut. The lines above the factory skid on mine were already attached securely to the factory skid. I didn’t use any of the provided zip ties.
 

JMP

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I’
The piece I removed is not the only attachment point for the factory skid. Yes the support bracket/box attached to the Metalcloak skid now supports this end of the factory skid that has the cut. The lines above the factory skid on mine were already attached securely to the factory skid. I didn’t use any of the provided zip ties.
Is the hardware you were missing the 4 motor Mount bolts?

The 4 M10x40mm bolts included don’t seem like they’ll be long enough to replace the motor Mount bolts and make this work.
 

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Terrymo

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I’


Is the hardware you were missing the 4 motor Mount bolts?

The 4 M10x40mm bolts included don’t seem like they’ll be long enough to replace the motor Mount bolts and make this work.
I was missing one of the gusset strap brackets that bolt between the engine skid and the motor mount as well as the hardware to bolt both gusset strap brackets to the engine skid. I was also missing one of the replacement motor mount bolts. The motor mount replacement bolts I received were just long enough.
 

JMP

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Cool. Thank you. I guess I’ll try them and hope they work out! I was also missing a gusset strap. Just called MC and they are sending it to me.
 

Terrymo

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Cool. Thank you. I guess I’ll try them and hope they work out! I was also missing a gusset strap. Just called MC and they are sending it to me.
I installed the skids by myself using a floor jack to maneuver each plate into place. The missing parts and less than complete instructions were a bit frustrating but I’m really happy with the product.
 

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I agree, the instructions for the undercloak system for my 4xe were also terrible. It would have an extreme zoom photo and be like "mount this bracket here" and I'd have to search my entire jeep holding the photo up like I'm playing Where's Waldo. And many of the instructions were just plain wrong, and I had to play a game of "well these are the parts I have left, so lets try each one in different places and see what makes sense."

The product itself is fantastic, they just need someone who has actually designed or installed them to review the instruction guides for accuracy. It was one of the most difficult bolt-on aftermarket part installs I've ever done, and took me probably 8+ hours to do work that it seemed like should take only an hour.

That said - you'll be happy once it's installed, these skid plates are awesome.
 

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You dont remove that part. You put the skids over it.
I have to remove these 2x13mm bolts circled in my photo in order to fully remove the OE crossmember and transfer case skid plate on my 2023 JLUR XR 3.6L e-torque - which is not listed as a step in the instructions. Once I remove these bolts, does this plastic curved part simply rest on top of the Metalcloak transfer case skid plate since there are no holes in the MC skid to reinsert the 2x13mm bolts? I've seen others have cut this piece, but I do not want to that. Thanks in advance.

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