Help with decision on tire size with m200 rear axle

Matt.Percy5

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I have read some post about the whole ordeal on wheeling on the d35 (m200) axle. i Have been thinking about it for awhile now on what tire size i should go 35s or 37s.I purchased all new upgrades for the m200 axles (shafts,gears and locker) its mainly my daily driver but i want to be able to do some moderate wheeling here and their. Let me know what you guys think. Will i be fine if i wheel on 35's for now or wait til i get a beefier rear end or go to 37s now and be easy on the pedal?

ps. front end is a prorock44 and gearing will be 5.13s.





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AR8421

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I have a 2018 2dr JL Sport 2.0 with M200; ARB air locker, 4.88, stock axle shafts, 37 Mastercraft MXT Coursers, full Metal Cloak 3.5 lift. Front has the 186 with Torq Master (ausie) locker and RCV axles. It tackles difficult trails with ease. Very little effort to climb and traverse obstacles that some in my club struggle with. It is my daily driver and is fantastic on the road. Drives better than stock. No problem at all for me so far. Here is a couple shots from a trip to the Rubicon. I hope this helps give you some info for your decision.

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IMG_2924(1).jpg


20200224_124249.jpg
 
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Matt.Percy5

Matt.Percy5

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I have a 2018 2dr JL Sport 2.0 with M200; ARB air locker, 4.88, stock axle shafts, 37 Mastercraft MXT Coursers, full Metal Cloak 3.5 lift. Front has the 186 with Torq Master (ausie) locker and RCV axles. It tackles difficult trails with ease. Very little effort to climb and traverse obstacles that some in my club struggle with. It is my daily driver and is fantastic on the road. Drives better than stock. No problem at all for me so far. Here is a couple shots from a trip to the Rubicon. I hope this helps give you some info for your decision.

20200224_125622.jpg


IMG_2924(1).jpg


20200224_124249.jpg
Hey thankyou very much for replying. cant stop thinking about the tire size so this helps out alot. Tires are the last thing i need. Deciding between cooper stt pros or bfg km3s.
 

AR8421

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I ran 35" SST's on my '15 4dr JK, 3" Teraflex. At the same time I had a '14 JK 2dr 2.5 full MetalCloak, that I ran '35 Trail Grapplers. I liked the Trail Grapplers better hands down, both on and off road. I went with the Mastercraft MXTs after reading a lot of reviews. The Coopers and Nittos are way heavier but I was skeptical about Mastercraft being a 2nd tier tire. I have to say I like the Mastercraft tires Way better than the others- both on and off road. They provide a great ride on the street and very little noise. I run them at 29psi. Off road, I'm not sure I have even slipped a tire. The 37s are a "D" tire but I have not had any problems with strength off road and aired down to 12psi. No cuts, rips, tears, chunking, or anything else of concern. They stick like glue IMO. I was not a believer but at considerably less weight, and price, I gave them a try. I am a believer now and I will be using them from now on. Just my opinion, (you know what they say about those lol) but I hope this helps.

BTW, those are JCR fenders on the JL so I do have a lot of extra clearance to stuff the 37s.

Also, with 4.88 gears and 37s I tach 2100 rpm at 70mph (Tazer calibrated for tire size and gear ratio)
 
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Matt.Percy5

Matt.Percy5

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yeah i'm curious to what i will be seeing with the 5.13 gears, what rpms ill be getting. What is your mpgs looking like with the 4.88s? im liking those tires and i might have to give them a try for the weight and price. stt pros are also rated at D just a little bit heavier. ill check my local guy i always go to, he gives out really good prices on tires.
 

AR8421

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I haven't done a true calculation using a mileage count divided by gallons used so I have to go by my indicator. At 65-70 mph on a trip down the freeway, easy on the throttle when accelerating, I am averaging between 17-19 mpg. I am closer to 12/13 when just cruising around town, without trying to be gentle.

It looks like we are only about 85 miles apart so if you'd like to meet 1/2 way (maybe Stockton or Lodi) for coffee or something and take a look at/drive the jeep, we could do that if you'd like. Then you could see what the 37-4.88 combo feels like under acceleration etc. It's no slouch I can tell you that. You may be surprised. You can PM me your number if you'd like.
Aaron
 

Therby

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I have a 2018 2dr JL Sport 2.0 with M200; ARB air locker, 4.88, stock axle shafts, 37 Mastercraft MXT Coursers, full Metal Cloak 3.5 lift. Front has the 186 with Torq Master (ausie) locker and RCV axles. It tackles difficult trails with ease. Very little effort to climb and traverse obstacles that some in my club struggle with. It is my daily driver and is fantastic on the road. Drives better than stock. No problem at all for me so far. Here is a couple shots from a trip to the Rubicon. I hope this helps give you some info for your decision.

20200224_125622.jpg


IMG_2924(1).jpg


20200224_124249.jpg
nice build, thanks for the info also

edit, are you running the one piece rcv or two pieces and kept the FAD?
 

AR8421

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I went with the FAD model. The other is supposedly just barely stronger and with the overall added strength, I'm not worried about it at all. They also have a lifetime warranty for anything up to a 37" tire. I run the Metalcloak FAD shield too., along with full Metalcloak belly skid plates. I have the JCR Crusader sliders, which meet up with their fenders perfectly and are awesome to use for pivoting on boulders. Zero damage so far, except for powder coat of course. They are super beefy and slide perfectly, without getting hung up at all. I have come down pretty hard on them and they still look like they did new. I have the LOD rear bumper and the Rustys HD tailgate tire carrier. It is also super beefy and has the full HD hinge too. It makes a big difference. I was running the LOD tire relocater but I bent the stock hinges and the tailgate was dragging on the bumper when I opened it. Zero issues now and the spare is totally stable.
 

Therby

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I went with the FAD model. The other is supposedly just barely stronger and with the overall added strength, I'm not worried about it at all. They also have a lifetime warranty for anything up to a 37" tire. I run the Metalcloak FAD shield too., along with full Metalcloak belly skid plates. I have the JCR Crusader sliders, which meet up with their fenders perfectly and are awesome to use for pivoting on boulders. Zero damage so far, except for powder coat of course. They are super beefy and slide perfectly, without getting hung up at all. I have come down pretty hard on them and they still look like they did new. I have the LOD rear bumper and the Rustys HD tailgate tire carrier. It is also super beefy and has the full HD hinge too. It makes a big difference. I was running the LOD tire relocater but I bent the stock hinges and the tailgate was dragging on the bumper when I opened it. Zero issues now and the spare is totally stable.
Im just curious for the FAD and the torq locker. How noticeable it is etc and if you find it annoying at all.

my concern is 4lo in between obstacles etc or what your thoughts are
 

AR8421

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It is not noticeable. I can steer lock to lock without resistance, stopped or rolling, and don't even know it's there. There is no pulling or anything. When you leave 4wd and go to 2wd, there can be a very brief pull, but not bad. It is more noticeable on pavement but still not bad. Nothing noticeable off road when going from 2wd to 4wd and nothing between 4hi and 4lo back and forth. I did the Rubicon a couple weekends ago and it was perfect the entire trip; most of which was in 4lo. I like the RCV/Torq locker better than a full locker. I can make lock to lock tight turns going extremely slow or stopped, negotiating back and forth between rocks/boulders, between trees, etc., and have had zero problem with pulling, slipping, spinning, or not engaging properly or being tough to turn. It can be very difficult to turn the wheel when using a full locker like an ARB. My wife, with almost no (driving) trail experience, ran a full tight trail last weekend and didn't even notice it was there.

For those not familiar with the way the FAD works, there is a toothed ring that is riding on one half of that axle shaft while in 2wd. When you go to 4wd the ring slides sideways and covers both shafts, locking them together. It stays that way until you go back to 2wd so there is no difference between FAD and full shaft once you are in 4wd, either high or lo. The torq locker works the same on FAD or full shaft.
 
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