Help! Snapped my axle on my 2022 JLUR Xtreme Recon and I need advice!

[FreedomFur]

is the dana 44 the factory axle? I thought it was an upgrade to the factory axle.

Dana 44 is the factory front/rear. ProRock44 is the Dynatrak.

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[Remorseless]

FAD?

Front Axle Disconnect.

 

[AnnDee4444]

Technically the factory Rubicon axles are M210 (front) & M220 (rear). I'm guessing this is also true with the XR since the 220 number only refers to the ring gear size (in millimeters... which is 8.66").

 

[21JLURDG]

For those that think broken axles are not likely if you're only rock crawling, this is a picture of a JT on 35s that bumped his axle on a rock coming off a small ledge. It broke the M210 housing at the FAD. I would guess concentrating the falling vehicle weight on a single point was the cause.

The picture is the trail fix used to get it off the trail. I wasn't there so please don't ask me for too many details. But I do now carry a variety of hose clamps and a large ratchet strap, plus considering an axle truss.

 

[Capt. Don]

Technically the factory Rubicon axles are M210 (front) & M220 (rear). I'm guessing this is also true with the XR since the 220 number only refers to the ring gear size (in millimeters... which is 8.66").

Actually the Xtreme Recon front axle is an M210 Wide (Rubicon) HD (Strengthened axle tubes) with 4.56 gears. Pretty cool. The rear axle is the Rubicon’s M220 Wide. No lockers unless it is an XR Rubicon but the non-Rubicon XRs have the Brake Limited Differential (BLD) working front and rear, even in 4-L, which turns off the ESC (electronic stability control). It does get both front wheels working on that nice front axle and complements the rear mechanical Trac-Lok axle.

 

[AnnDee4444]

Actually the Xtreme Recon front axle is an M210 Wide (Rubicon) HD (Strengthened axle tubes) with 4.56 gears. Pretty cool. The rear axle is the Rubicon’s M220 Wide.

That's not what I was... nevermind.

No lockers unless it is an XR Rubicon but the non-Rubicon XRs have the Brake Limited Differential (BLD) working front and rear, even in 4-L, which turns off the ESC (electronic stability control). It does get both front wheels working on that nice front axle and complements the rear mechanical Trac-Lok axle.

This is not XR specific.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

FAD?

Actually the Xtreme Recon front axle is an M210 Wide (Rubicon) HD (Strengthened axle tubes) with 4.56 gears. Pretty cool. The rear axle is the Rubicon’s M220 Wide. No lockers unless it is an XR Rubicon but the non-Rubicon XRs have the Brake Limited Differential (BLD) working front and rear, even in 4-L, which turns off the ESC (electronic stability control). It does get both front wheels working on that nice front axle and complements the rear mechanical Trac-Lok axle.

All this after asking what a FAD was? Lol.

 

[AnnDee4444]

For those that think broken axles are not likely if you're only rock crawling, this is a picture of a JT on 35s that bumped his axle on a rock coming off a small ledge. It broke the M210 housing at the FAD. I would guess concentrating the falling vehicle weight on a single point was the cause.

The picture is the trail fix used to get it off the trail. I wasn't there so please don't ask me for too many details. But I do now carry a variety of hose clamps and a large ratchet strap, plus considering an axle truss.

Nice fix!

It looks like the crack is right through the FAD on this one, where the OP's looked further in towards at the tube. edit: nevermind... crack is in the same spot.

I wonder if a FAD skid would have reinforced this area, possibly preventing the split.

 

[21JLURDG]

All this after asking what a FAD was? Lol.

FAD = CAD

 

[AnnDee4444]

Thinking out loud here... feel free to point out my stupidity.

The Gladiator scenario above broke when coming down onto a rock, which I can see easily being able to fracture the FAD cast iron housing.

But the OP's was from the XR's long bump stops? The rubbery bump stops that have some give? And the tires must have had some give too... and the shocks slowed the motion as well. The leverage advantage the tire side of the axle has over the FAD isn't very much either... the bump stop is only a few inches away from the tire, and I would think the maximum forces are less than half what they are at the hub. Is the FAD housing seriously weak enough for all these forces to shear it?

Other thoughts: the steering stabilizer happens to bolt right next to where the crack forms. Could the stabilizer exert enough force to do this kind of damage? Like from trying to resist slamming the tires right/left when landing from a sweet jump. The stabilizer normally sees very low speeds... what does it do under extreme circumstances? Does anyone know of any FAD failures where the stabilizer was relocated?

Or maybe if the landing wanted to force the tires to toe-in, putting the tie-rod in compression and pulling apart the FAD. I could see these leverage forces getting pretty high. Maybe having a weak tie-rod could save the FAD if this is the case.

Or maybe the control arm bushings have too much give, allowing the axle to twist.

 

[J0E]

For those that think broken axles are not likely if you're only rock crawling, this is a picture of a JT on 35s that bumped his axle on a rock coming off a small ledge. It broke the M210 housing at the FAD. I would guess concentrating the falling vehicle weight on a single point was the cause.

The picture is the trail fix used to get it off the trail. I wasn't there so please don't ask me for too many details. But I do now carry a variety of hose clamps and a large ratchet strap, plus considering an axle truss.

We should start a new post FAD FAIL Trail Fix (FFTF). I'd love to buy a kit for a FFTF. I don't need the front axle to pull, I just need to get my JLR to the road (with winch/tow strap help) for a tow truck.

My buddy stripped his front ring gear on his JKUR on 38's with chromemolly axles. He obviously lost the front pulling, but it was easy getting him to the paved road with my JLR pulling. He drove straight to the shop. But if he had a JLUR with a broken FAD, it would have been a much more difficult recovery.

I'll eventually get Ultra 70 Axle Set JL 40/40-Spline axles, so I don't want to put a penny in my stock axles.

 

[dcmdon]

If they flag your VIN, the warranty isn't gone.

Any warranty related to the activity or damage is gone.

Big difference. HUUGGEEE difference.

In this case, his warranty would still be in force for anything not related to front suspension or steering. If his power windows fail - warrantied. If the tranny blows - warrantied. If the UConnect fails - warrantied.

Frankly, hitting a bump 2 ft high at 20 mph sounds pretty significant.

 

[Capt. Don]

All this after asking what a FAD was? Lol.

Still don’t understand if my axle has an FAD and where it is.

 

[Remorseless]

Still don’t understand if my axle has an FAD and where it is.

To my knowledge, all OEM Jeep JL axles have the cutout for the FAD. So your axle has the FAD window there. It is located on the passenger side of the axle, about halfway between the differential and the wheel.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

Still don’t understand if my axle has an FAD and where it is.

It does. They all do. It for gas mileage. Your front DS isn't turning in 2wd so it saves a bit.

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