Help me install a torq locker (aussie)

[entropy]

So I am going to buy and install a $400 locker on my front axle. This is what i've gathered needs to be done to get the job done.

- Drain front diff oil and remove skid plate if equipped
- Raise front of Jeep and support on jackstands.
- Remove wheels/tires and brakes (pads, rotos, caliper)
- Remove axle shaft
- Remove front diff cover
- Remove spider gears
- Install locker
- Put everything back together and refill front diff fluid.
- go wheeling.

The job seems straight forward, but I have never pulled an axle shaft. I've also never mess with the gears inside the diff. Any tricks and/or tips I need to be aware off?

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[SSWIM]

Take it to someone who has done them. That's my tip.

Sam

 

[Col_Sanders]

I installed a Spartan on my XJ myself. Its a toy so I didnt care too much if I screwed it up. These lunchbox lockers have some unique driving characteristics. Get ready for loud ratcheting noises as you turn and some popping on tight turns. If it were ME on a nice new daily driver, I'd probably save up a bit and have a selectable installed.

Going off memory, a couple steps you missed:

To pull the axle shafts, you will have to remove knuckles, which means removing steering and the big nut on the axle shaft. If you have to remove the ring gear from the carrier, mark it with paint to make sure you get it back in the same spot. Torque to spec.

 

[entropy]

I installed a Spartan on my XJ myself. Its a toy so I didnt care too much if I screwed it up. These lunchbox lockers have some unique driving characteristics. Get ready for loud ratcheting noises as you turn and some popping on tight turns. If it were ME on a nice new daily driver, I'd probably save up a bit and have a selectable installed.

Going off memory, a couple steps you missed:

To pull the axle shafts, you will have to remove knuckles, which means removing steering and the big nut on the axle shaft. If you have to remove the ring gear from the carrier, mark it with paint to make sure you get it back in the same spot. Torque to spec.

Yeah ive done a lot of research. These torq masters dont ratchet, and have really nice on road manners. They arent loaded on 2WD. And on 4WD they become open on turns like a LSD. They ratchet while turning on 4WD. I dont mind that.

Thanks for the tips!

If anyone knows of a video or something they can share, that'll be great. I would like to see what the work entails. If it is easy enough as the manufacturer claims it to be I'll do it. If not, I'll go selectable and have a shop do the install since they'd probably charge the same in labor.

 

[Zandcwhite]

With the fad, even a Spartan locker wouldn’t ratchet as one wheel is effectively disconnected from the drivetrain in 2wd.

 

[Col_Sanders]

I forgot about the FAD so that would eliminate that issue I suppose

 

[entropy]

Also I think the m186 axle will be fine with a locker, but you never know. And throwing 1,500 on a selectable. idk....

 

[Zandcwhite]

Also I think the m186 axle will be fine with a locker, but you never know. And throwing 1,500 on a selectable. idk....

A lunch box locker is perfect for an axle you don’t want to invest too much in. If it turns out you are wheeling too hard for the axle to hold up you aren’t out a bunch of money. It would be foolish in my opinion to spend nearly the cost of a rubicon take off axle to add a selectable locker to the weaker axle. If/when you are ready to upgrade beyond that I’d go ultra 44 for all of it’s upgrades over the factory rubicon axle.

 

[nsfw_andy]

Also remember to not mix up the shims once you remove the housing. Otherwise, should be pretty straightforward to do in your driveway.

 

[word302]

You’re also going to have to remove the FAD motor and pull the C-clip in order to remove the inner axle on the passenger side.

 

[Moto_21]

I put one in my d30 when i first got the jl, pretty straight forward, just make sure shims stay on correct side and caps go back on correct side. Take your axle shaft and bolt it back to the wheel in the garage with the shaft sticking up, put the carrier on the splines to torque the ring gear bolts. That was easiest way to do it for me.

 

[Gregj]

I don’t think you have to remove the knuckles just the wheel bearings and the axle shaft will come out with the knuckles in place.
Gregj

 

[entropy]

I put one in my d30 when i first got the jl, pretty straight forward, just make sure shims stay on correct side and caps go back on correct side. Take your axle shaft and bolt it back to the wheel in the garage with the shaft sticking up, put the carrier on the splines to torque the ring gear bolts. That was easiest way to do it for me.

Did you ever run it on the trails? up to what tire size? I know you have 40s now lol.

 

[Moto_21]

Did you ever run it on the trails? up to what tire size? I know you have 40s now lol.

Yeah i had rcv shafts with it but i was only on 35s

 

[Nodak99]

Just my 2 cents - If you are installing a Torq Locker on a Jeep JL it is more involved. Depending on your comfort level it might be a lot to take on.

1. Remove Tires, Caliper, Rotor, Unit bearing, and Axle (no Need to remove the hub from the axle)
2. Remove the FAD motor, c-clip, and slide the intermediate axle out several inches
3. Drain, Open the Differential, before removing anything, mark the bearing caps side orientation
4. Remove front carrier, careful to remember which side the shims and races go on
5. Remove carrier pin
6. Remove Spider gears and shims
7. install torq locker per directions
8. Put it all back together in reverse order

Remember to clean everything out with brake clean and use Loctite (the real stuff). There are a few videos on these items, but nothing detailed and specific for a torq locker on a jeep JL.

Good news is that if you can do this install, you are really close to being able to do your own gears!

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