HELP,,, Jeep won’t start :(

[RoadiJeff]

Another issue is, the Jeep is parked in the garage and my driveway is on a hill.

If I have to have it towed, how the heck will I get it out of park and not crash? There are no brakes.

Yours didn't come with a park brake?

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[jludave]

If I have to have it towed, how the heck will I get it out of park and not crash?

There is an override that will allow you to move the vehicle.




Before you perform that procedure to allow the vehicle to roll, have the tow truck driver hook up his/her winch line to your vehicle. Should be able to control the roll that way.

 

[kapk22]

I'm sorry but this is way above my knowledge. If your battery is fully charged then the only other thing I would know to try is using your Tazer to try to clear all the service messages.

A good tow truck operator should be able to help with the garage and brake issue.

I really feel for you. This has to be so frustrating.

Before I have it towed, I am going to put the charger on the battery (just to make certain it has an actual full charge), check connections under the drivers seat and clear the codes with my tazer.

I realized I had unbolted the drivers seat in order to move it forward and run wires for the amp. When I researched more threads last night, I read several others had issues with codes after moving their seats. I did not I disconnect any of the wires, but I feel like I need to check. I used the rear right mount bolt for the ground (no power or amp hooked up yet).

Thank you for all the help

 

[MikeJLURubi]

Before I have it towed, I am going to put the charger on the battery (just to make certain it has an actual full charge), check connections under the drivers seat and clear the codes with my tazer.

I realized I had unbolted the drivers seat in order to move it forward and run wires for the amp. When I researched more threads last night, I read several others had issues with codes after moving their seats. I did not I disconnect any of the wires, but I feel like I need to check. I used the rear right mount bolt for the ground (no power or amp hooked up yet).

Thank you for all the help

I hope it works!

 

[kapk22]

Yours didn't come with a park brake?

The pre-runner Rubicon does not have the brake...

Is there any way I can connect the negative terminal wires back up without sparks flying?

I am not a fan of that dual battery setup.

 

[kapk22]

Make sure all your fuses are fully seated

I double checked all the fuses and they are good.

Mike (Stinger rep on here) mentioned I may need to remove the tazer mini in order for the heigh10 to work.

I ended up throwing the charger on the battery anyway, just to sure. Odd thing is, I noticed it was still showing charging after about an hour. I don’t have a percentage gauge on the charger, it just shows a light on with a half battery when charging and full when it’s done.

I reconnected the battery and decided to try clearing the check engine light with the tazer. It did not seem to work, as it simply went right back to the same codes. Then it still has the option to clear the CELs.

So, I removed the tazer and plugged the heigh10 back in. The screen still won’t work.

I also checked the drivers seat connections and everything is fine.

My fiancé’s son has an obd reader that has the capability of clearing the check engine light.

Do you guys think that would work better than the tazer?

 

[MikeJLURubi]

What a mess. At this point I would try but I'm not sure.

 

[WranglerMan]

I’m thinking this is going to be a long fix, it’s the troubleshooting that’s going to be the drawn out part.

 

[jludave]

Do you guys think that would work better than the tazer?

It's worth a shot.

However, you've got so much going on with new things added to the vehicle you may want to start reverting back to stock for troubleshooting purposes.

Unmarry the Tazer. Next, if at all feasible, remove the Heigh10 and put the stock radio back.

I'm leaning towards something having shorted out with your TIPM or ECU.

 

[kapk22]

I’m thinking this is going to be a long fix, it’s the troubleshooting that’s going to be the drawn out part.

Well, I woke up and first thing I checked was the charger. It finally showed fully charged. I wish I could work on it this morning, but I have to go to work and make money to fix my dumbass mistake.

I pulled the heigh10 out last night and disassembled it to completely start over. I won’t install this until I get the Jeep running and have everything figured out.

Tonight I am going to put the stock uconnect back in and re-marry the tazer mini. Try one more time to clear the CELs (I may have missed a step trying last night). And call my future step son to see if his scanner will reset things.

 

[MikeJLURubi]

Well, I woke up and first thing I checked was the charger. It finally showed fully charged. I wish I could work on it this morning, but I have to go to work and make money to fix my dumbass mistake.

I pulled the heigh10 out last night and disassembled it to completely start over. I won’t install this until I get the Jeep running and have everything figured out.

Tonight I am going to put the stock uconnect back in and re-marry the tazer mini. Try one more time to clear the CELs (I may have missed a step trying last night). And call my future step son to see if his scanner will reset things.

Good luck!

 

[Heimkehr]

My fiancé’s son has an obd reader that has the capability of clearing the check engine light.

I used my OBD code reader/scan tool to assist my neighbor with an emission system gremlin on his Dodge Dakota. I'd pull the [latest] code, he'd write it down, and I would then extinguish the Check Engine Light with the OBD tool.

Key word: extinguish.

We discovered early on that the associated code(s) remained in the vehicle's computer, even with the CEL off, until it was driven 100 miles or so without the underlying problem reoccurring. Said differently, a dealer's more advanced diagnostic equipment could pull the code (if it hadn't cleared in that 100 miles) even if the CEL wasn't lit. There was no hiding anything when the annual State safety and emission inspections came due.

Absent a visit to the dealer, only when my neighbor's Dakota recognized that the underlying problem(s) were fixed would it clear the codes itself. That's how we backed into the eventual DIY fix: replacing parts until I couldn't pull any more codes.

Just an FYI regarding semantics, in the event that you have to debate the matter of CEL lights and codes with your dealer. Best of luck here.

 

[kapk22]

I used my OBD code reader/scan tool to assist my neighbor with an emission system gremlin on his Dodge Dakota. I'd pull the [latest] code, he'd write it down, and I would then extinguish the Check Engine Light with the OBD tool.

Key word: extinguish.

We discovered early on that the associated code(s) remained in the vehicle's computer, even with the CEL off, until it was driven 100 miles or so without the underlying problem reoccurring. Said differently, a dealer's more advanced diagnostic equipment could pull the code (if it hadn't cleared in that 100 miles) even if the CEL wasn't lit. There was no hiding anything when the annual State safety and emission inspections came due.

Absent a visit to the dealer, only when my neighbor's Dakota recognized that the underlying problem(s) were fixed would it clear the codes itself. That's how we backed into the eventual DIY fix: replacing parts until I couldn't pull any more codes.

Just an FYI regarding semantics, in the event that you have to debate the matter of CEL lights and codes with your dealer. Best of luck here.

Any idea what the dealership might charge to fix it?

I am assuming it is just a flash of some sort.

 

[MikeJLURubi]

I don't, sorry. Probably more than they should. It's usually a set fee plus hourly rate.

 

[WranglerMan]

Any idea what the dealership might charge to fix it?

I am assuming it is just a flash of some sort.

My guess would be a diagnostic fee plus cost of repair, these dealer service ppl have charge codes for everything.

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