Help Identifying Best Loc/Means of Wiring In Ignition On Devices?

[JP29]

Morning everyone!

I've recently decided to undertake adding some significant mods to my '20 JL Sport - retrofitting in freedom panel brackets, adding an overhead molle panel, stealth light bar, popping out the airbag and cluster bezels to paint the body color - but the one I'm seeking help with here is how best to tie in some 12v to 5v usb power plugs. I have a few little devices that I'm wanting to give a clean install to, and I'd like to have them tied to ignition on. They don't draw much power. Initially my plan was to tie into the cigarette lighter power, but I've read in a few sources that there is an ignition on wire behind the glovebox. Any tips or tricks on which of these - if either - to use, and how best to make the connections? I bought an assortment of T tap connectors, which I've read can be unreliable unless you pre-score the wiring. They also aren't waterproof, but I figured if they're in danger of water ingress, I've got bigger problems. Any help appreciated!

Sponsored

 

[GATORB8]

I believe the glove box wire your referring to is the one that is included in the Aux Switches. It’s not there if you don’t have that option.

 

[VKSheridan]

I do everything as much as humanly possible at the fuse box to keep the factory connections and harnesses unaltered. I have zero faith in a ten cent connector such as T-Taps that requires me to damage my thousand dollar harness as the first step of installation. Vibration, moisture, heat and corrosion kills electronics and Jeeps face all of the above.

You can use a piggyback dongle such as THIS. To ensure your addition “always on” items don’t drain your batteries while you’re of fishing for two weeks, you might want to install a low voltage cut-out relay like THIS. Lastly, if you want to add low voltage taps, you can install something like THIS.

I put the last two items in a small plastic enclosure before mounting them in the cab behind the glove box.

Good luck!

 

[JP29]

I do everything as much as humanly possible at the fuse box to keep the factory connections and harnesses unaltered. I have zero faith in a ten cent connector such as T-Taps that requires me to damage my thousand dollar harness as the first step of installation. Vibration, moisture, heat and corrosion kills electronics and Jeeps face all of the above.

You can use a piggyback dongle such as THIS. To ensure your addition “always on” items don’t drain your batteries while you’re of fishing for two weeks, you might want to install a low voltage cut-out relay like THIS. Lastly, if you want to add low voltage taps, you can install something like THIS.

I put the last two items in a small plastic enclosure before mounting them in the cab behind the glove box.

Good luck!

I definitely understand your thought process. So just so I'm sure I'm following, you'd suggest tapping an existing ign. on fuse and running the wiring from there into the glove box? I'm guessing there must be an existing route? And any suggestions on what fuse might be handy? I've already tapped 52 for my drl halos on the oculus headlights, and had to add two 20 amp fuses to that just to keep them and my cigarette lighters capacity for power. I tried a few others but had no dice. I know there's the tailgate 12v but wasn't sure if that could be configured to be ign. on as well as the cabin one - thought it was an either or. Thank you for the tips!

 

[GATORB8]

This is stupid expensive, but plug and play: https://stingeroffroad.com/products...nAUCn1KwbMdI56JfPl1idrfiF95e0CJoaAk1wEALw_wcB

 

[VKSheridan]

There’s entry points on both sides of the firewall. The passenger side is a b*tch to get at. The drivers side has a two inch grommet straight below the brake master cylinder which is a lot easier and a good central point to run your mod wires. Crossing from left to right or vice versa under the dash is nearly impossible. Nix that, I am convinced it is impossible. To cross, I ran my wires near the front, under the shifter bezel cover. Much less cussing involved. For fuse box taps, read the lid and think about what works only when the key is on and tap to that fuse. Use the original fuse for that circuit and the proper rated fuse for your new circuit.

 

[JP29]

This is stupid expensive, but plug and play: https://stingeroffroad.com/products...nAUCn1KwbMdI56JfPl1idrfiF95e0CJoaAk1wEALw_wcB

I'll give that a look, that's pricey but right about at the level of electrical confidence I have lol. Only thing is that's the same way the light bar I want to put in plugs in...decisions decisions

 

[GATORB8]

I'll give that a look, that's pricey but right about at the level of electrical confidence I have lol. Only thing is that's the same way the light bar I want to put in plugs in...decisions decisions

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...=eto:14173555663829123127_0,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1

 

[JP29]

There’s entry points on both sides of the firewall. The passenger side is a b*tch to get at. The drivers side has a two inch grommet straight below the brake master cylinder which is a lot easier and a good central point to run your mod wires. Crossing from left to right or vice versa under the dash is nearly impossible. Nix that, I am convinced it is impossible. To cross, I ran my wires near the front, under the shifter bezel cover. Much less cussing involved. For fuse box taps, read the lid and think about what works only when the key is on and tap to that fuse. Use the original fuse for that circuit and the proper rated fuse for your new circuit.

Alright, I'll consider this route too. Could be very manageable to run the fuse taps over to drivers side and then hide under the bezels and molding, gracias!

 

[VKSheridan]

This is stupid expensive, but plug and play: https://stingeroffroad.com/products...nAUCn1KwbMdI56JfPl1idrfiF95e0CJoaAk1wEALw_wcB

I actually gave that a thought at one time but one fuse at one rating trying to protect my umpteen additions that each have different amp draw made me uneasy. Sticking in a 30 amp fuse to ensure it could handle full load would have been easier than adding 3 10 amp circuits but a 6 amp device will burn for quite a spell before that 30 amp fuse opens….. LOL

 

[GATORB8]

I'll give that a look, that's pricey but right about at the level of electrical confidence I have lol. Only thing is that's the same way the light bar I want to put in plugs in...decisions decisions

Does the light bare come with the harness to grab the lighter power? Then you can just do a splice onto it there. I assume the light bar has a relay.

 

[Ct_Formula]

I'm subscribing to this thread!

 

[Jeepeto]

+1 on the add a fuse if you don’t have the 10 amp ignition wire that comes with the aux switches.

They’re cheap, easy, reliable, 100% reversible, and don’t piggy back on existing circuits causing trouble down the line.

 

[JP29]

Does the light bare come with the harness to grab the lighter power? Then you can just do a splice onto it there. I assume the light bar has a relay.

Plan was for the Quadratec light bar, which I'm not sure if it's relayed or not. It does use a damn near identical 12v adapter.

Makes me wonder if I could just tap into it, or daisy chain one or two more with similar harnesses for the seperate devices.

 

[GATORB8]

Plan was for the Quadratec light bar, which I'm not sure if it's relayed or not. It does use a damn near identical 12v adapter.

Makes me wonder if I could just tap into it, or daisy chain one or two more with similar harnesses for the seperate devices.

It’s not, wow that things pulling 15A from a stock circuit.

I’d have to check what the lighter is rated for.

Sponsored