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Help! After reading so many forums I’m still undecided!

omnitonic

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I'm currently on 35s on the stock 3.45s on my Willys with the 6MT. The people telling you that you "won't notice" are all driving automatics, Rubicons, or automatic Rubicons. You will notice. If you plan to go to 37s on the stock 3.45s, you will notice even more.
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Thegreatpunkn

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I'm currently on 35s on the stock 3.45s on my Willys with the 6MT. The people telling you that you "won't notice" are all driving automatics, Rubicons, or automatic Rubicons. You will notice. If you plan to go to 37s on the stock 3.45s, you will notice even more.
Regardless of the tire size I plan to regear and support the 30 as added reassurance, which I don’t plan to wheel hard at all if much of any. But that being said that’s the reason I have 37s set in my mine because it’s not much added cost in that way
 

omnitonic

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Regardless of the tire size I plan to regear and support the 30 as added reassurance, which I don’t plan to wheel hard at all if much of any. But that being said that’s the reason I have 37s set in my mine because it’s not much added cost in that way
Right, you did say regear. I was just kind of adding my dissenting voice to all the "you don't need to regear" people. Yeah, you do. On stock 32s with stock 3.45s you do. The stock gears suck for the 6MT.

I'm on 35s, and I've picked 4.56 after extensive hand wringing, and people have tried to talk me into 4.88s. If I were doing 37s, I would start the hand wringing at 4.88s.
 

Zandcwhite

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As someone with a 3.5” lift and 39’s, I can say you should be happy with 35’s and a more modest lift. If you fear regret, don’t. Save the money to go all out if you jump past 35’s. I’m talking tires, chopping the rear pinch seams, and 1-ton axles (with accompanying drag link, tie rod, and ball joints to match). It’s a slippery slope past 35’s, if you just do tires and lift for 37’s you’re either lucky, a way better mechanic than me, or accepting flaws in steering, stability, and/or maintenance costs.
Tires and lift to go to 37's worked well for us, but definitely accelerated wear on the other components you mention. We put on a 2.5" spacer lift and 37" yokohama x-mt's last August right before a 2,500 mile road trip to moab. That was with 15k miles on the jeep. Drove, handled, and wheeled great. 85 mph through mountains on I-70 without issue. Upgraded to longer shocks and a new steering stabilizer with flip kit in October after crushing the factory 1 in big bear. After several more wheeling trips and about 20k miles on the lift and tires we started getting a shimmy in the steering wheel. Have since added a synergy tie rod with the flip kit and track bar bracket, Rubicon express adjustable front track bar, Rubicon express front lca's, and a rear track bar relocation bracket. Drives and handled great again with no wobble. The tie rod and ball joints are still stock with 40k miles on them, 25k with the 37's. It's been to moab twice, telluride, big bear, tillamook, the desert several times, and just ran the dusy ershim trail last week. It is smart to budget for all the upgrades, buy you don't have to put $10k into a full build right out the gate. Granted ours is a Rubicon and therefore better geared and a stronger axle to start. I don't think the Rubicon has any better parts as far as tie rod, ball joint, track bars, or lca's though. Some upgraded rear lower lca's, heavy duty ball joints, and a new tie rod are next on the list. It's a Jeep, there's always a list.
 

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LongTimeListener

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I'm currently on 35s on the stock 3.45s on my Willys with the 6MT. The people telling you that you "won't notice" are all driving automatics, Rubicons, or automatic Rubicons. You will notice. If you plan to go to 37s on the stock 3.45s, you will notice even more.
Indeed. I’m trying to imagine 37s with the 6MT and 3.45s and just… nope. Great way to turn your 6-speed into a 4-speed. 5th and 6th will be completely lost.
 

Roky

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Sorry if this is a common post just haven’t seen it recently to read comments.

Recently I purchased a 2020 jlu willys. 3.6, 6 speed. I’ve been researching lift and tire setups and to add this is obviously my dd.

Im stuck between a 3.5” Clayton overland kit, 37s, regear to 4.56s and truss/gusset my 30.

OR

2.5” Clayton overland kit, 35s and a possible regear to 4.56s and truss/ gusset the 30.

I can’t seem to go 35s for the simple fact is it’s only about 400 in total to make the jump to 37s. Hoping I can get some input and persuasion on a yes or no for either!
My opinion....... just get your lift and tires on and drive it. This will make your decision for you. There’s no way to know what you’re willing to put up with until you try it.
 

Qjoh5510

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Just do it. Get the 37s. You’re probably gonna want to regear for sure. At least 4.88s. People will tell you that you don’t need to, which is somewhat true, but life is much more enjoyable when your jeep drives like it’s supposed to. I will however say at least get a 44 up front in place of that 30. Spend the little bit extra and do it right the first time. Buy once, cry once. You can probably sell the 30 for a few hundred bucks and recuperate some of your spent money back.
 

AcesandEights

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In which setup are you suggesting this? lol I like your thought though
You'll probably decide, based on how you really use it, whether you "need" to re-gear. If you're on road, you probably won't care, unless you live in a mountainous area and drive a lot. If you're off road, depending on whether that means snow and mud or rocks and ruts, you may want to re-gear. My point though is if you want 37" because they look good (nothing wrong with that), then re-gearing is probably less important than how it performs...or maybe a better way to put it isn't that it is less important, but you have a wider margin of being happy with how it performs. If your vehicle was built for a specific task that was performance based, you'd have a more specific and identifiable "need".
 

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Thegreatpunkn

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You'll probably decide, based on how you really use it, whether you "need" to re-gear. If you're on road, you probably won't care, unless you live in a mountainous area and drive a lot. If you're off road, depending on whether that means snow and mud or rocks and ruts, you may want to re-gear. My point though is if you want 37" because they look good (nothing wrong with that), then re-gearing is probably less important than how it performs...or maybe a better way to put it isn't that it is less important, but you have a wider margin of being happy with how it performs. If your vehicle was built for a specific task that was performance based, you'd have a more specific and identifiable "need".
I do live in a mountainous range, Appalachian mountains in the md/pa region most roads have hills and between towns/cities are mountains lol. I’m trying to spend the coin one time to build a dual purpose dd and slight off-road rig that is not going to do any wheeling as Moab or anything. At best I’ll hit up raush creek off-road park and run beginner trailer that I could do in a stock jeep atleast until I’ve been more aquatinted with that style. Mostly old logging trails is what I performed on in the past
 

omnitonic

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Indeed. I’m trying to imagine 37s with the 6MT and 3.45s and just… nope. Great way to turn your 6-speed into a 4-speed. 5th and 6th will be completely lost.
I did experiments on the 32s with the 3.45s, and driving it like a 4-speed achieved significantly better fuel economy. On 35s, driving it like a 4-speed gets me around, but the sooner I can get the regear done, the better. On 37s? I just don't think I could stand it.
 

LiveToWork

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Buy what you want regardless of price because if you want a 3.5 but go with 2.5 and small tires, you wont be satisfied.
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