Heaviest you've towed with JL

[bobzdar]

The hitch definitely isn't the weak point. If you look, there are class iv hitches available that are the exact same design. The cross member it's attached to has a massive cross sectional area compared to even most class 5 hitches on one tons that are bolted to the frame, and the cross member is welded, not bolted to the frame. The hitch setup is beefier than the class iv hitch on my half ton pickup which is rated for 7500lbs.

The only comments I've seen from FCA are that the cooling is the limitation (and that was for the jk), but that is also not remotely an issue, at least not on the rubicon.

That leaves the suspension, but compared to a grand Cherokee, it's stiffer and squats less. The axles are also much beefier. So I think they only certified with a standard hitch and not a WD hitch, unlike the GC which has ratings for both.

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[aai]

the only logical thing I can think of, is the lack of aerodynamics of the Vehicle. Boxy shape at high speed and very susceptible to wind turbulence. Plus towing heavy makes it very liable. I for one don't want them to change the shape of the vehicle, that would be sacrilegious. So they extended the wheel base instead, Gladiator.

 

[TroyBoy]

Height is probably a factor too.

 

[ClaytonW]

The hitch definitely isn't the weak point. If you look, there are class iv hitches available that are the exact same design. The cross member it's attached to has a massive cross sectional area compared to even most class 5 hitches on one tons that are bolted to the frame, and the cross member is welded, not bolted to the frame. The hitch setup is beefier than the class iv hitch on my half ton pickup which is rated for 7500lbs.

So, why the difference? Some European countries 5500 lbs vs 3000 lbs only in the USA...It's the same vehicle. Maybe, most of Jeeps in the USA are lifted while no such modifications in most EU countries are allowed?

 

[anotherWS6]

Searched all over for a "euro" hitch. They are all the same whether being sold i Germany, the UK and I checked Australia as well.

 

[Geos7812]

#weird

Almost like the hitch ain’t the limiting factor.

 

[anotherWS6]

G.O. - A.W.A.Y.

Take all of your "I read S on the internet", "I looked at Jeep's specs", "I'm scared of everything that isnt clearly laid out for me" and S-y know-it all attitude and find someone else to bother. You're annoying and nobody likes you or finds you helpful here. I'm sure you're a real star in the "What options" and "Best console organizer" threads, so go knock yourself out and wow folks there. Here you're just a fng nuisance. Go be an expert in threads that involve people with zero knowledge.

 

[Geos7812]

G.O. - A.W.A.Y.

Take all of your "I read S on the internet", "I looked at Jeep's specs", "I'm scared of everything that isnt clearly laid out for me" and S-y know-it all attitude and find someone else to bother. You're annoying and nobody likes you or finds you helpful here. I'm sure you're a real star in the "What options" and "Best console organizer" threads, so go knock yourself out and wow folks there. Here you're just a fng nuisance. Go be an expert in threads that involve people with zero knowledge.

Sorry you don’t like the truth man. Sometimes it ain’t what you want to hear but it is still truth. There is no way to legally increase capacity above the sticker on the door (GVWR) or any of the other capacities, ie: axle, tongue, trailer etc. that the manufacturer sets.

I do this stuff for a living man. I get you are upset, but truth is truth.

 

[Rdmitch]

So far it’s only been my lawnmower stuck in a foot of mud because some moron (hmmm, wonder who that might be) decided to cut the grass a bit early this year.

 

[GunnersJL]

From my perspective, my below comments will put this issue to bed. I spent the day talking to vendors at Jeep Beach in Daytona today, rear bumpers being one of my primary targets for discussion.

I found two manufacturers with intergral hitch receivers, both highly reputable Jeep aftermarket suppliers. In one case I spoke with the actual design engineer. Both vendors agreed with my initial assessment that an integrated hitch will be stronger than the factory hitch. Both also agreed that the JL has sufficient braking and driveline, and that you could upgrade the suspension for a heavier tongue weight.

Both advised against exceeding the manufacturers suggested tow rating, and in particular the tongue weight of 350#’s. One cornered me for about 15 minutes and drilled this point home, not letting me leave until he was certain I understood just how bad an idea this is, and why.

As I said in a previous post, they agree the crossbar is a weak point. But not THE weakest link. The weakest link is the frame. Giving rough figures, maybe not entirely accurate as we were not looking at specs, the JK box frame is about .240 wall thickness. The JL frame is roughly .190. The numbers may not be exact, but he drilled in the point that the JL frame is .050” thinner than the JK frame. It is intentionally less to save weight. Because of this, he stated, and from experience, that the JL frame cannot withstand excessive tongue weight. It will bend. He has actually seen this happen, and more than once. The JL frame is also more brittle, easier to damage that the JK.

Based on this information I tend to agree. Pulling a heavy tongue weight on rough roads puts a lot of impact stress on a hitch. I’d assume the excessive up/down and left/right forces could do quite a bit of damage to a weak frame.

For me that wraps this up. No doubt based on European specs the JL can carry a bit more weight than spec’d here in the states, but for my need, which is nearly 600#’s of tongue weight, it’s not gonna happen.

I will likely still get an aftermarket rear bumper as the factory one has pretty much no impact resistance, and I like to bounce off stumps and rocks. But I won’t be towing my camper.

I’m withholding the vendors name at his request, he stays off of forums and does not want to be pulled into this.

Jeep had a handful of Gladiators there and a course set up. You were allowed to ride and get the sales pitch. I want one.

 

[Geos7812]

From my perspective, my below comments will put this issue to bed. I spent the day talking to vendors at Jeep Beach in Daytona today, rear bumpers being one of my primary targets for discussion.

I found two manufacturers with intergral hitch receivers, both highly reputable Jeep aftermarket suppliers. In one case I spoke with the actual design engineer. Both vendors agreed with my initial assessment that an integrated hitch will be stronger than the factory hitch. Both also agreed that the JL has sufficient braking and driveline, and that you could upgrade the suspension for a heavier tongue weight.

Both advised against exceeding the manufacturers suggested tow rating, and in particular the tongue weight of 350#’s. One cornered me for about 15 minutes and drilled this point home, not letting me leave until he was certain I understood just how bad an idea this is, and why.

As I said in a previous post, they agree the crossbar is a weak point. But not THE weakest link. The weakest link is the frame. Giving rough figures, maybe not entirely accurate as we were not looking at specs, the JK box frame is about .240 wall thickness. The JL frame is roughly .190. The numbers may not be exact, but he drilled in the point that the JL frame is .050” thinner than the JK frame. It is intentionally less to save weight. Because of this, he stated, and from experience, that the JL frame cannot withstand excessive tongue weight. It will bend. He has actually seen this happen, and more than once. The JL frame is also more brittle, easier to damage that the JK.

Based on this information I tend to agree. Pulling a heavy tongue weight on rough roads puts a lot of impact stress on a hitch. I’d assume the excessive up/down and left/right forces could do quite a bit of damage to a weak frame.

For me that wraps this up. No doubt based on European specs the JL can carry a bit more weight than spec’d here in the states, but for my need, which is nearly 600#’s of tongue weight, it’s not gonna happen.

I will likely still get an aftermarket rear bumper as the factory one has pretty much no impact resistance, and I like to bounce off stumps and rocks. But I won’t be towing my camper.

I’m withholding the vendors name at his request, he stays off of forums and does not want to be pulled into this.

Jeep had a handful of Gladiators there and a course set up. You were allowed to ride and get the sales pitch. I want one.

So are you saying that the Jeep Engineers are smarter than us? I really am perplexed.

 

[bobzdar]

From my perspective, my below comments will put this issue to bed. I spent the day talking to vendors at Jeep Beach in Daytona today, rear bumpers being one of my primary targets for discussion.

I found two manufacturers with intergral hitch receivers, both highly reputable Jeep aftermarket suppliers. In one case I spoke with the actual design engineer. Both vendors agreed with my initial assessment that an integrated hitch will be stronger than the factory hitch. Both also agreed that the JL has sufficient braking and driveline, and that you could upgrade the suspension for a heavier tongue weight.

Both advised against exceeding the manufacturers suggested tow rating, and in particular the tongue weight of 350#’s. One cornered me for about 15 minutes and drilled this point home, not letting me leave until he was certain I understood just how bad an idea this is, and why.

As I said in a previous post, they agree the crossbar is a weak point. But not THE weakest link. The weakest link is the frame. Giving rough figures, maybe not entirely accurate as we were not looking at specs, the JK box frame is about .240 wall thickness. The JL frame is roughly .190. The numbers may not be exact, but he drilled in the point that the JL frame is .050” thinner than the JK frame. It is intentionally less to save weight. Because of this, he stated, and from experience, that the JL frame cannot withstand excessive tongue weight. It will bend. He has actually seen this happen, and more than once. The JL frame is also more brittle, easier to damage that the JK.

Based on this information I tend to agree. Pulling a heavy tongue weight on rough roads puts a lot of impact stress on a hitch. I’d assume the excessive up/down and left/right forces could do quite a bit of damage to a weak frame.

For me that wraps this up. No doubt based on European specs the JL can carry a bit more weight than spec’d here in the states, but for my need, which is nearly 600#’s of tongue weight, it’s not gonna happen.

I will likely still get an aftermarket rear bumper as the factory one has pretty much no impact resistance, and I like to bounce off stumps and rocks. But I won’t be towing my camper.

I’m withholding the vendors name at his request, he stays off of forums and does not want to be pulled into this.

Jeep had a handful of Gladiators there and a course set up. You were allowed to ride and get the sales pitch. I want one.

Jeez, better not use the factory tow hook, that's only attached to one frame rail. Hooking a 10,000lbs winch to that and extracting that will probably rip the frame completely in half.

 

[18JLRubi]

Okay, you want real world experience. I'll come at this from the other direction.

Several times now I've towed my 5700# camper with my '08 JKUR. No issues. But, I am well prepared for it.

Things I've learned. The factory hitch is Class II, not Class III. 3500# limit. As mentioned by others previously it is mounted to a cross bar, not the frame. If you pull 6000#'s with a cross bar mounted bumper, at some point the camper will be driving off without its tow vehicle. You need to offset this. I did so by adding an aftermarket bumper with an integrated hitch which bumped me up to Class III. The bumper mounts to the frame. It can withstand both the tongue weight and the lateral forces.

To pull 6000#'s you will drop 720#'s on the bumper (12%). The JL suspension is not designed for this much weight. The back end will squat to the floor. The front end will pop up to the sky. You will lose steering contact. This is not an exaggeration. I used mine to move the camper last weekend. It's crazy how much 570#s of tongue weight squatted the back end.

How to offset this? First, a good WDH (weight distribution hitch). This transfers some of the weight from the rear to the front, and helps level out the vehicle. Note that the weight IS STILL THERE! So don't think, just because you have a WDH, you don't need to address the strength of the bumper. (I've been shopping for a good integrated hitch JL bumper. Not many out there. Most use the factory bumper).

Second, if you really plan to do this, you can buy airbags that fit inside the springs. They are actually pretty cheap. These will stop the vehicle from squatting. I have not done this, but if I towed the camper regularly I would.

Trailer brakes. Not a debatable point. Meaning you need a 7 pin connector installed and a controller.

Upgrade your transmission cooler. Again, not a debatable point. Though I will say that on my '19 JLUR, I recently towed 3000# and there was no hint of overheating. But I have the towing package, and all that was addressed at the factory.

I cannot stress strongly enough that the factory hitch and suspension will not withstand the weights you are considering. You must take steps to offset these weaknesses. Beyond that, the engine and transmission are the same as the JGC that is rated for 7200#'s. The driveline is not an issue. Suspension and bumper are major issues.

Check out the tow ratings in Europe and Australia. The JLU is quite capable of higher tow ratings. Not a chance in Hell I'd go much over 6000#'s though.

Disclaimer: All that said, I am not recommending anyone tow beyond factory recommendations.

hypotheically speaking.... with some air bags.... a random person might be able to load a 400# motorcycle on a hitch carrier and be ok ish ?? lol

 

[Kidder212]

Why don’t you have a hot shot transporter, transport the trailer to the new location. You might be best off renting a U-Haul and tow the trailer with that. Save the Jeep!

 

[anotherWS6]

Jeez, better not use the factory tow hook, that's only attached to one frame rail. Hooking a 10,000lbs winch to that and extracting that will probably rip the frame completely in half.

Lol, thats actually a good point. I get the differences. Keep in mind.... vendors aren't necessarily bastions of accurate knowledge. Just saying. I've talked to plemy of guys at car shows selling S that didn't know their elbow from their Ahold. And vice versa. Who knows.

Comparing the frame in every dimension on my 2000 Silverado to my 68 Suburban is and excersize in voicing all sorts of wonderment filled explitive sayings. That old truck isn't anywhere neer HALF the size of the newer truck. It also didn't come with tow ratings. And you should see some of the S people tow with these things. And the guys who have and do use thesethese things on a farm consider only if the truck will physically move once whatever they want to pull is hooked up. And show me any 30 plus year old pickup whose bed lines up with the cab like it's supposed to. Nothing like the quality steel used in the 80s and 90s to build these workhorses. Frames did slinky impressions and body panels started rotting through on dealership floors. Didn't stop 1'000s of people from pulling 10k plus pound 34 footers. I spent weeks traveling in my grandfather's 1991 Cadillac/34 airstream setup. Oil and trans cooler being the only mods. Seems crazy that a 4 door truck of any kind would be less capable than that beautiful pile of GM period garbage.

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