Have you had any battery or electronics trouble after switching to just one battery?

[andy29847]

Inquiring minds want to know. It's really 2 questions.

Have you had trouble with no start or even ESS not ready since you switched to just one battery?

Have you had any electronic trouble (AC, radio, other cab systems) with your Jeep since you switched to just one battery.

If your answer to either question is yes, please share the details.

Love, kisses, and best Christmas wishes.

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[AndySpill]

Inquiring minds want to know. It's really 2 questions.

Have you had trouble with no start or even ESS not ready since you switched to just one battery?

Have you had any electronic trouble (AC, radio, other cab systems) with your Jeep since you switched to just one battery.

If your answer to either question is yes, please share the details.

Love, kisses, and best Christmas wishes.

Andy, of course you should feel free to poll whatever JL questions you deem fit. It's none of my business.

But--for what it's worth--at least related to our discourse earlier today--my issue/questions pertain to running one battery AND ESS events (on factory equipped dual AGM battery JLs) and its effect on the entertainment system or post ESS cranking.

I would not expect one battery or two to present electronic trouble with the engine on: not at all. I would though not be surprised to hear that one battery, without the alternator running, during an ESS event where appliances are also drawing current, to in fact be effected.

I'd expect less, not more ESS not ready situations with one battery as the dual AGM JL, unknown to it, is polling the main battery to access whether there's ample power to run ESS events, not, as per factory, the ESS/Aux battery as happens for an instant at cold crank, when Fuse 42 and connection to the ESS battery is yanked.

 

[autotragic]

Inquiring minds want to know. It's really 2 questions.

Have you had trouble with no start or even ESS not ready since you switched to just one battery?

Have you had any electronic trouble (AC, radio, other cab systems) with your Jeep since you switched to just one battery.

If your answer to either question is yes, please share the details.

Love, kisses, and best Christmas wishes.

No issues. The ESS light on the dash stayed lit for a while but it eventually went away. I have a tazer and keep ESS off.

 

[DogsRule]

I d/c the AUX and F42. No hard proof, but I swear the engine idles a little rough, like a cylinder is turned off. No other loss noticed. The main is now 5 years old OEM and tests OK but I also know whenever I get a new battery any engine seems more powerful. Still need to turn off ESS. Otherwise no other issues.

Does keeping the AUX battery provide more AMPS for engine operation? Engine runs off the battery right, not the alternator, right?

 

[Heimkehr]

Does keeping the AUX battery provide more AMPS for engine operation? Engine runs off the battery right, not the alternator, right?

Batteries are energy storage devices, intended usually just for cranking the starter motor. Once the engine is started, electrical output pivots to the alternator.

The owner who wants additional amps during engine operation would need to install an alternator with the desired capacity.

 

[21JLURDG]

I don't usually use remote start but yesterday it failed (partial crank) in a 45F garage. Message displayed that remote start was disabled and start engine normally. After normal engine start, remote start is working fine. I have no idea what caused it or if single battery related. Threw the charger on the battery and very quickly it switched to maintenance mode.

 

[andy29847]

Andy, of course you should feel free to poll whatever JL questions you deem fit. It's none of my business.

But--for what it's worth--at least related to our discourse earlier today--my issue/questions pertain to running one battery AND ESS events (on factory equipped dual AGM battery JLs) and its effect on the entertainment system or post ESS cranking.

I would not expect one battery or two to present electronic trouble with the engine on: not at all. I would though not be surprised to hear that one battery, without the alternator running, during an ESS event where appliances are also drawing current, to in fact be effected.

I'd expect less, not more ESS not ready situations with one battery as the dual AGM JL, unknown to it, is polling the main battery to access whether there's ample power to run ESS events, not, as per factory, the ESS/Aux battery as happens for an instant at cold crank, when Fuse 42 and connection to the ESS battery is yanked.

I don't know what you said, and I don't think you do either.

 

[Mayhem-6]

I bypassed aux by pulling F42 and tied off the aux negative terminal on the main.
I replaced the main with an H7 AGM. I haven’t had any issues since. If I want the ESS on it works fine on the single main battery but I typically keep ESS disabled with the tazer.

 

[dchemphill1]

No issues. I did have to have the Canbus star connector replaced in the glove compartment area but it was not due to running without AUX battery.

 

[VKSheridan]

I’ve been on the single battery for almost 4 years. No issues. Keyless entry works, remote start works, the radio remembers its channels and the TPMS hasn’t forgotten tire locations.

 

[LHSmith]

Inquiring minds want to know. It's really 2 questions.

Have you had trouble with no start or even ESS not ready since you switched to just one battery?

Have you had any electronic trouble (AC, radio, other cab systems) with your Jeep since you switched to just one battery.

If your answer to either question is yes, please share the details.

Love, kisses, and best Christmas wishes.

No problems with any vehicle operations after pulling fuse 42 and disconnecting AUX negative cable.
There is the ESS light on the dash, which will not go away even when pushing the ESS button.

 

[andy29847]

No problems with any vehicle operations after pulling fuse 42 and disconnecting AUX negative cable.
There is the ESS light on the dash, which will not go away even when pushing the ESS button.

Just a guess since I don't know all the details. Your main battery would probably test 12.4vdc or less. The ESS seems to alarm ~12.4vdc, but the battery will still start the truck. In the old world, before ESS, 12.4vdc was half-life for a battery.

 

[AndySpill]

I don't know what you said, and I don't think you do either.

Then let me dumb it down for you. It will not only help your comprehension but insure to you that mine's intact.

Yesterday you challenged the idea, one I propose and others have concurred with, that people shouldn't run one battery on an factory dual AGM battery JL and ESS events. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...aux-battery-bypass.17293/page-47#post-2942073

But your seeming misunderstanding conflated (I know, big word, look it up) the idea that people should in this one battery state above not run these ESS events, with a non-existent claim that people are having problems running on one battery provided they don't run ESS events.

Nothing could be further from the case: the opposite is true.

And I said this idea of avoiding ESS events because not only do appliances potentially rob that one battery of cranking power during ESS events, for the post ESS event engine crank, but that is effects the voltage sensitive entertainment system.

(Wait, I hear it coming...every other vehicle out there runs ESS events just fine with one battery. Yeah, those vehicles are designed that way. The dual AGM battery JL may not be, it may be flashed in ways that effect the voltage at which an ESS event early terminates, who knows. Are you going out at 2AM to jump start owners who run ESS events with one battery and can't crank in the left hand turn lane? Are you running to the accident caused by this? That's why I and others argue a conservative approach to turn ESS off in these 1 battery installs, not that 1 battery is bad if you turn ESS off. It's good in fact, better than factory!)

Wait, let me state this in the converse..maybe you'll get it. Only people who want to run ESS events on dual AGM battery JLs should run the two factory batteries.

So you proposed a poll but asked the wrong freaking question (because you so clearly don't know what you're talking about) which in reality is about what issues, if any, people are having running ESS events under such a scenario.

And you know what...people who run 1 battery and ESS events may have zero problems. I simply don't know so I advocate erroring on the side of conservatism as batteries vary in strength, age, strength under cold temperature, and appliance load.

I never claimed issue running one battery. There are tons of posts on this forum where I suggest nothing short of this approach if dual AGM battery owners have already committed to not running ESS events. For them, the extra amp hours of the ESS/Aux battery is completely not worth the potential for this small battery to cannibalize the main battery in my and many forum member's opinions.

I don't know what on earth your poll hopes to establish when anyone who has a basic knowledge of what it means to

1) disconnect the Aux battery, and 2) deny the Power Control Relay (PCR) electrical current via the Fuse 42 pull silently making the vehicle tap the main battery for any and all requests for power, be it the pre cold crank ESS/Aux battery test, normal operation, or ESS events

realizes that this should improve outcomes for non-ESS event operators, or at worst do no harm.

About the only extremely rare exception to this is situations where it is the main battery that's "about to be a boat anchor," not the Aux battery, where the Aux is keeping things afloat adding amp hours in its parallel connection to the main.

Yeah, I'm the stupid one here.

Please reply with TLDR; only change that to TSDR. I'll leave it as an exercise for you what the "S" might stand for here. I have an idea for your next poll Andy, ready:

"How many people found it easier to breath when the got out of the smoky building and into fresh air?"

 

[Operative73]

No problems with any vehicle operations after pulling fuse 42 and disconnecting AUX negative cable.
There is the ESS light on the dash, which will not go away even when pushing the ESS button.

When I changed, I had power when I pulled fuse 42, had the dash light. Disconnected the battery(new and only) for 10 minutes. reconnectedd, no more light

 

[Operative73]

I went to a single battery. Isolated the neg on the aux, left in place. Tazer mini disables ESS. Put in a SLI94RAGM Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM | 800CCA | Group Size 94R.

No issues at all.

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