Has anyone used the Warn power interrupt kit with a Smittybuilt X20 winch?

[VA72mlibu]

Yeah, running 4 gauge wires to and from "under the dash" would be a pain in the butt. This is why a solenoid is a good choice. A 16/18 gauge wire between the switch and solenoid is a lot easier to run to the dash. Also do you want full battery current now all the time at your shins vs at the bumper?

Agreed, plus ideally keep those fat wires as short as possible to keep draw low.

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[MacombRoger]

I just (very carefully) cut the hook off. A cut off wheel sliced right through it. I wrapped the rope in aluminum foil to keep out any metal shavings.

So did I. Just used an air powered cut off wheel. I just put a rag over the rope line. Don't cut the rope unless you are an expert at re-looping it.

 

[IndustrialAction]

I just (very carefully) cut the hook off. A cut off wheel sliced right through it. I wrapped the rope in aluminum foil to keep out any metal shavings.

I thought about doing that, but I'm going to run a Factor 55 Ultrahook with a rope guard so I don't need the reinforcement piece that comes on the stock strap. I'd rather just cut the rope, repair it with the fast fid, and sell the hook to someone that wants it

 

[sourdough]

I just finished the installation of a winch relay and winch fuse....

fire wall location seemed to work for me...

completes my underhood accessory wiring, for awhile haha

 

[msujedi]

@sourdough , I see you went with an underhood switch rather than using a cabin aux switch. Are all of your aux switches already being used? IF you were using an aux switch, how would the wiring be different? ... green from the solenoid to an aux wire, and black from the solenoid to a ground anywhere?

Lot's of wiring & in-line fuses mounted in there! (That pic could be a game on the back of a cereal box ... how many in-line fuses can you spot? LOL. I count 6.) What other electrical accessories have you added?

 

[desert runner]

Not sure if someone else had mentioned this already but my reasoning for considering this is in the event of a run away winch. Basically, you're spooling in winch line and something shorts out and the winch won't stop spooling. In the time it takes to open the hood, grab a wrench, and disconnect it, It could take fingers, hands, limbs, damage your Jeep, snap the cable, destroy the winch, or any other combination. It's pretty scary when it happens, especially because 9/10 times, if you're using a winch- you've already screwed up and are in a bad position.

I agree, and this was my thinking, too.
In addition, consider how super easy it is to tamper with a winch, which is directly hooked to your battery: All you need is a coin to short circuit the contacts where the remote plugs in - and the winch starts running.

 

[GtX]

I wired up a SB X20 12K with a Warm solenoid controlled via a VOswitch this weekend.

 

[sourdough]

@sourdough , I see you went with an underhood switch rather than using a cabin aux switch. Are all of your aux switches already being used? IF you were using an aux switch, how would the wiring be different? ... green from the solenoid to an aux wire, and black from the solenoid to a ground anywhere?

Lot's of wiring & in-line fuses mounted in there! (That pic could be a game on the back of a cereal box ... how many in-line fuses can you spot? LOL. I count 6.) What other electrical accessories have you added?

I did not order the auxiliary switch pkg. $500 for the aux. switch pkg. wasn't worth it to me. I only have two switches added the the interior. One on console for driving lights and one that comes with/no the M.O.R.E. mounted ARB twin compressors behind the drivers seat. I do power up the winches power relay with an under the hood switch. There are 10 inline fuses for 7 accessories BTW, ARB twin compressors has 2, winch has 1+ 1 on relay power switch. I have a cb, frs/gmrs, driving lights, Brawlee trail gate light(inside), a fuse on the supply power to Blue sea fuse block system. The BlueOx flat towed battery charger, for the aux. braking system has the 10th fuse. Every powered accessory has a fuse near the power source, the battery and they are right there next to it. All very accessible and easy to check.

 

[msujedi]

mounted ARB twin compressors behind the drivers seat.

How do you connect your compressors to power? What connection type (hard wired, cigarette lighter plug, etc), what guage wire, & what amp fuse?

 

[PSI]

I did this instead (https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/winch-disconnect-and-mounting-plate.44275/) and I simply turn the switch on before heading offroad and then off again when back in civilization.

Similar idea, a switch but a few of extras:
Less than $25
On/Off switch is built in
Waterproof
Small, no bracket or plate needed
If I power it on and there is a short, the 300amp breaker shuts it down at the battery

 

[CarbonSteel]

Similar idea, a switch but a few of extras:
Less than $25
On/Off switch is built in
Waterproof
Small, no bracket or plate needed
If I power it on and there is a short, the 300amp breaker shuts it down at the battery

Great idea; I only hope that it can actually handle the current. It seems REALLY small for a 300AMP breaker.

 

[ralphgb]

So, what did I do wrong, or what am I missing?

New winch (Warn Evo 10S), was working properly when connected directly to the fuse mounted at the + battery terminal. Decided based on what I read in this thread to add a solenoid.

Installed the Warn solenoid to a rail and wired as follows:
- Near (frontmost) large terminal goes to the fuse via the fuse.
- Far (rearmost) large terminal goes to the red Winch cable (was previously connected to the fuse)
- Near small terminal has a green wire going to the ground battery post
- Far small terminal has a black wire going over to the AUX3 cable (Orange/Pink).
Now, no power to the winch when the AUX3 button is pressed (and indicator light is illuminated).

I do have a problem with the solenoid - one of the small terminals (the switch post) screw posts is faulty, but I installed it anyway. That may in fact be the problem, but I wanted to run it past the (smarter than me) people here. Thanks!

 

[CarbonSteel]

So, what did I do wrong, or what am I missing?

New winch (Warn Evo 10S), was working properly when connected directly to the fuse mounted at the + battery terminal. Decided based on what I read in this thread to add a solenoid.

Installed the Warn solenoid to a rail and wired as follows:
- Near (frontmost) large terminal goes to the fuse via the fuse.
- Far (rearmost) large terminal goes to the red Winch cable (was previously connected to the fuse)
- Near small terminal has a green wire going to the ground battery post
- Far small terminal has a black wire going over to the AUX3 cable (Orange/Pink).
Now, no power to the winch when the AUX3 button is pressed (and indicator light is illuminated).

I do have a problem with the solenoid - one of the small terminals (the switch post) screw posts is faulty, but I installed it anyway. That may in fact be the problem, but I wanted to run it past the (smarter than me) people here. Thanks!

A couple of questions:

1. The solenoid has NO POWER when the AUX 3 is powered on? Is this intentional OR are you saying that with it turned on there is no power? If the latter, have you tested the wire coming from AUX 3 to see if it has power?

2. Everything appears to be connected correctly and **in theory** you can cross connect the two small wires to bypass the solenoid to see if everything works (I would use a fuse in the test jumper just in case).

 

[ralphgb]

A couple of questions:

1. The solenoid has NO POWER when the AUX 3 is powered on? Is this intentional OR are you saying that with it turned on there is no power? If the latter, have you tested the wire coming from AUX 3 to see if it has power?

2. Everything appears to be connected correctly and **in theory** you can cross connect the two small wires to bypass the solenoid to see if everything works (I would use a fuse in the test jumper just in case).

1) It's not intentional that I get no power. I expect power from the AUX3 wire when I press the AUX 3 button (duh), but I ran out of time and didn't test that with a multi-meter yet.

2) Good suggestion on testing with a fused jumper. I'll give that a try as well.

 

[CarbonSteel]

1) It's not intentional that I get no power. I expect power from the AUX3 wire when I press the AUX 3 button (duh), but I ran out of time and didn't test that with a multi-meter yet.

2) Good suggestion on testing with a fused jumper. I'll give that a try as well.

Sorry, I may have misread it. Make sure that you have AUX 3 set to latch in UConnect so that it stays on after you release the button.

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