Hardtop Cart / Holder DIY

  1. Texas_Yote

    Texas_Yote Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Kris
    Vehicle(s):
    18 JLUR Granite, 15 JKS 2DR, 800+whp 15 Mustang GT
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2017
    Location:
    Prosper
    Posts:
    321
    Liked:
    274
    Occupation:
    Slang 1's & 0's
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    #1 Apr 8, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018
    Lots of projects this weekend!

    Here is how to build your own hardtop cart and save a $150.

    2 2x4 cut to 29"
    2 2x4 cut to 60"
    1 1x2 cut to 60"
    4 2x4 cut to 15"
    4 caster wheels - if your garage is at a slant get locking casters
    25 2.5" screws
    Staple gun
    Carpeting of your choice...

    Total cost was $20 at home depot...$13 at Walmart for 2 yards of soft material...$14 at Lowes because my staple gun broke..

    I carpeted the whole thing just because. Also, you will see I have my hard top set behind the front 2x4 but you can set it on top. I felt it was more secure that way.

    I started by carpeting the 5 main pieces; the 2x4's and the 1x2.

    Once those were carpeted I placed the 29" pieces under the 60" boards and clamped each corner going one corner at a time. Drilled pilot holes and put 4 screws in each corner.

    Once the frame was built, I put the 1x2 6" back from the front board. That way there was space for the wiper. This board will hold the wiper off the ground if you do not secure the window to the hard top.

    I then pilot holes and drilled/screwed the first 15" board 8" from the edge. Then screwed the 2nd 15" board to the top of that. Once they were both screwed down I carpeted them.

    I then flipped it over and put the caster wheels on. I got wheels that spun 360*; if you do the same make sure there is room for them to spin.

    Attached are the results!

    **the blue tape was used to hold the window while we were lifting on to the cart..it was then removed.

    20180406_170329.jpg 20180406_170335.jpg 20180407_120027.jpg 20180407_120051.jpg 20180407_120105.jpg
     
  2. Lurvis33

    Lurvis33 Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Luke
    Vehicle(s):
    ‘18 Sting-Gray Sahara
    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2017
    Location:
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts:
    1,580
    Liked:
    6,073
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    This is awesome! Thanks for sharing! I’m also planning on making my own door holder. Have a few weeks before the Jeep arrives hopefully :like:
     
    Texas_Yote likes this.
  3. Lurvis33

    Lurvis33 Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Luke
    Vehicle(s):
    ‘18 Sting-Gray Sahara
    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2017
    Location:
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts:
    1,580
    Liked:
    6,073
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    So it should be 2 2x6 29” and 2 2x4 60” according to your build. I was putting on the 15” 2x4 pieces and realized yours all sat flush. So now I’m just making the 2x4s flush with the back of the 2x6 60”....
     
  4. OP
    OP
    Texas_Yote

    Texas_Yote Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Kris
    Vehicle(s):
    18 JLUR Granite, 15 JKS 2DR, 800+whp 15 Mustang GT
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2017
    Location:
    Prosper
    Posts:
    321
    Liked:
    274
    Occupation:
    Slang 1's & 0's
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    I made an error on the 2x6 it should be 2x4, I updated the post above. Either way I went out to measure and it still works fine with a 2x6, if anything there is more weight support. I actually may end up swapping if I see any sag in a few months.

    Sitting the board flush with the rear was the right move. When you rest the hard top on the cart the front will most likely rest on top of the front 2x6.

    Post pics when you are done :)
     
  5. Lurvis33

    Lurvis33 Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Luke
    Vehicle(s):
    ‘18 Sting-Gray Sahara
    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2017
    Location:
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts:
    1,580
    Liked:
    6,073
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    So I’m going to be swapping the front 2x6 with a 2x4 because I like the idea of it sitting “in” the cart versus “on” it. Plus that 2x6 turned out to be warped ever so slightly that it lifts the front right wheel so I probably need to replace it anyway. (I could’ve sworn it was straight all the way through when I picked it)
    Recalculating my costs my hardtop build was only $55 and my door holder build is about $94... but both are still cheaper than the hardtop cart I was going to buy before I saw your plans!
     
    Texas_Yote likes this.
  6. OP
    OP
    Texas_Yote

    Texas_Yote Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Kris
    Vehicle(s):
    18 JLUR Granite, 15 JKS 2DR, 800+whp 15 Mustang GT
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2017
    Location:
    Prosper
    Posts:
    321
    Liked:
    274
    Occupation:
    Slang 1's & 0's
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    I'd be interested to see what you did for the door holder!
     
    spblat likes this.
  7. Lurvis33

    Lurvis33 Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Luke
    Vehicle(s):
    ‘18 Sting-Gray Sahara
    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2017
    Location:
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts:
    1,580
    Liked:
    6,073
    Garage Profiles:
    1
  8. kkuntz01

    kkuntz01 Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Kevin
    Vehicle(s):
    2018 JLU Rubicon, 2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2018
    Location:
    Glendale Heights, IL
    Posts:
    841
    Liked:
    582
    To be honest, you could get away with building a hard top cart out of 1x4’s and have more than enough structural integrity to support both the hard top and freedom panels. Back when we had to JK’s I built a couple of carts, the first one I overbuilt using 2x4’s. It was rock solid but it was clear it was over kill. The second one I built using 1x4’s and was perfectly adequate. I’ll have to dig around on my PC whenever I have time to see if I’ve got better pic’s of just the cart(s) but here are a few of them in use. Also something else I did with my carts was make them a longer than just the width of the top so that I could also stash the freedom panels (in their storage bag) on the cart with the top.

    This the cart I built using 1x4’s with a floor of 1/4” press board with some work out mat’s to protect the top. You figure each one of those wheels is about 75lbs and the cart never really flinched with all that weight.

    259527_230366880311680_4041149_o.jpg

    You kind of have to zoom in to see the top on the (light duty) cart.
    20046587_1733255170022836_4729596585782021676_n.jpg
     
  9. LeaN69

    LeaN69 Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Russ
    Vehicle(s):
    2018 JLUR StinGray
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2018
    Location:
    NJ
    Posts:
    422
    Liked:
    306
    Looks same as the one i build for my JKs hardtop, glad I didn't throw it out.
    Was worried abut the spoiler not clearing but seems to be good!
     
  10. Gus

    Gus Well-Known Member

    Vehicle(s):
    wrangler 2018 JLU Rubicon
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2016
    Location:
    Ontario GTA, Canada
    Posts:
    290
    Liked:
    140
    Thanks for a lot for your feedback. Much appreciated.
    Where does the rear spoiler sit exactly ?
    On top of the 15” blocks or inside them to hold the top and keep it in an angle and
    underbpressure on the lower edge?
    Thanks
     
  11. OP
    OP
    Texas_Yote

    Texas_Yote Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Kris
    Vehicle(s):
    18 JLUR Granite, 15 JKS 2DR, 800+whp 15 Mustang GT
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2017
    Location:
    Prosper
    Posts:
    321
    Liked:
    274
    Occupation:
    Slang 1's & 0's
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    The spoiler sits on the blocks in the rear. Having the blocks split decentralized the point of contact and allows for less pressure in one area since the rear has a slight roundness IMHO. The lower points of contact I have inside the front 2x6 to stop it from sliding but even resting on top is fine and was stable with no worries of sliding.
     
    Gus likes this.
  12. Tech Tim

    Tech Tim Well-Known Member
    Summit Sponsor (Level 3)

    First Name:
    Tim
    Vehicle(s):
    4x4 of all kinds
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2018
    Location:
    Poulsbo, WA
    Posts:
    405
    Liked:
    459
    Occupation:
    Part of the Northridge4x4 team
    TexasJL and Texas_Yote like this.
  13. Gus

    Gus Well-Known Member

    Vehicle(s):
    wrangler 2018 JLU Rubicon
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2016
    Location:
    Ontario GTA, Canada
    Posts:
    290
    Liked:
    140
    Thanks a lot for your feedback. Much appreciated.
     
  14. Gus

    Gus Well-Known Member

    Vehicle(s):
    wrangler 2018 JLU Rubicon
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2016
    Location:
    Ontario GTA, Canada
    Posts:
    290
    Liked:
    140
    Thanks you again @Texas_Yote .I mange to build mine today using your instruction, straight forward, you have saved me a lot of time, money and effort.
    I went to a hardware-store, gave the the dimensions, and had them cut it for me.
    Much appreciated.
    Now I need to cover it, I bought a couple of rolls of shelf lining to cover the contact areas, instead carpet. which I think would be softer on the hardtop, and holds it better.

    What contact areas do you suggest I need to cover where the hardtop rests on?

    The 2 blocks and lower lip and 1x2 ?
    Does the hardtop touches the lower side pieces as well? sorry I can't tell from the picture.

    Your feedback is appreciated
    Thanks in advance
    IMG_1455.JPG
     
  15. OP
    OP
    Texas_Yote

    Texas_Yote Well-Known Member

    First Name:
    Kris
    Vehicle(s):
    18 JLUR Granite, 15 JKS 2DR, 800+whp 15 Mustang GT
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2017
    Location:
    Prosper
    Posts:
    321
    Liked:
    274
    Occupation:
    Slang 1's & 0's
    Garage Profiles:
    1
    I suggest wrapping the areas I highlighted in blue. You can rest the top on the front 2x4 but I prefer to have it rested on the side rails behind that 2x4. The areas I highlighted are or could be the main contact points. Hope this helps, I can grab a few pictures more if you need some. Screenshot_20180425-204657_Chrome.jpg
     
Loading...

Share This Page