Hard-wiring Dash Camera with HomeLink but Non-Powered Mirror

[Snowshoes]

I've been searching for a constant hot wire in the cabin and found the passenger side foot-well light wire might work. I'll try and update here.

I tried the passenger foot-well light wire and it doesn't work. Now I will just route wires through the firewall :cwl:

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[weeitsmikelee]

You might wanna see what @RussJeep1 did. He has a similar model to mine and also wired it in the A-pillar to keep it hot 24/7. I’d be interested to see his wiring and also his settings in the dash cam app.

A member has said that the small aux battery is what powers the interior lights (dome lighting) and that seems to be what my cam is hardwired to. For example, when the cam turns off (around 10 mins) after the truck is off it will turn back on if you play with the dome lighting.

Please tell me if I’m wrong as I’m not the best with electrical and would love to know if I made a mistake lol.

 

[RussJeep1]

I tried the passenger foot-well light wire and it doesn't work. Now I will just route wires through the firewall :cwl:

Thanks for the reference @weeitsmikelee Mike.

@Snowshoes : if you have the 12V DC power adapter in your cargo area, (a 20 amp circuit more than capable of energizing your camera) then know that by default, FCA makes this outlet on all the time. (The owner's manual BTW shows how you can change this power source to only be on when the rig is on by moving a fuse, but that's besides the point and contrary to the objective here.)

I permanently tap this plug so it will energize my camera when the rig is off.

I have my camera set to turn off and not draw power if whatever battery of the two under the hood that actually powers this plug dips to levels far less than the threshold that would suggest that engine cranking could be compromised.

The camera also taps accessory wires, which I'll define as those that are only energized when the rig is on (e.g. the 12V power adapter in the dash is an example, but not one I tapped.) This setup lets the camera to discern when it is needs to be taking pictures of the rig moving (when both energy sources are on) and when it's parked (only the 12V cargo area accessory plug being on) and objects appear in either of the dual camera's frame.

I should make a point of clarification. My Camsys camera *records* similarly whether the rig's moving or at rest. But at rest, the camera only *saves* a programmable amount of time before and after objects come into either of the dual cameras' view, and unlike when the rig is on, will not operate to the point where the rig's batteries drain to anywhere near the threshold to crank the rig.

@Snowshoes: before you go through the firewall to tap always on power, even if you don't have this outlet in the cargo area (to be honest I don't know what trim levels and features provide it other than, according to the manual, you get it if your rig has a rear audio subwoofer) consider the vanity mirror wires as a always on source as well.

There may be other ways to do this, but *a* right way, is a pain in the arse:



I would have used the vanity light wires instead, and frankly it would have been easier for me than going all the way to the back of the rig for always on power, but under certain non-patternistic scenarios, particularly when I was sitting in the rig, this light would shut off some time after turning my rig off and its wires de-energize. This may have something to do with how the rig's computer processes weight on the front seat. I say this because when I raised this issue on the forum, other members cited turning off their rigs for hours and days on end, with the driver's window open, and still able to have electrical current illuminate this mirror upon test hours/days later. So maybe, practically speaking tapping this vanity mirror wires is fine, as the expectation is that you want your camera to protect your rig when parked, and you, presumptively are not inside it but elsewhere.

I never had issue with the cargo area outlet going off. As long as your batteries have juice (which ever one or ones power the outlet) and its cables are connected, and you haven't change the FCA fuse placement defaults discussed above, this outlet should have juice.

I hope this helps.

 

[Snowshoes]

Thanks @weeitsmikelee for summoning @RussJeep1 to this thread.

@RussJeep1 : Yes, I have the 12V cargo power outlet. I read you mentioning the 12V power outlet in the cargo area but wasn't really paying attention since I didn't want to route a constant hot wire all the way to the back while acc wire and the ground wire staying in the front. And I wanted to use the 12V cargo power outlet to tap the led light bar wires for the tailgate. But going through the firewall is the last thing I want to do so I will try the cargo outlet. Which wire did you use to tap the acc wire? I assume the cargo power outlet has both acc and bat wires but don't think they are energized at the same time. Did you use the wires in the A-pillar to tap the acc wire?

I too confirmed the vanity mirror lights shut off some time after turning the rig off (I was sitting in the jeep with the windows open). I might test if it stays on when I'm not sitting in the rig with the windows closed and the doors locked.

 

[RussJeep1]

Thanks @weeitsmikelee for summoning @RussJeep1 to this thread.

@RussJeep1 : Yes, I have the 12V cargo power outlet. I read you mentioning the 12V power outlet in the cargo area but wasn't really paying attention since I didn't want to route a constant hot wire all the way to the back while acc wire and the ground wire staying in the front. And I wanted to use the 12V cargo power outlet to tap the led light bar wires for the tailgate. But going through the firewall is the last thing I want to do so I will try the cargo outlet. Which wire did you use to tap the acc wire? I assume the cargo power outlet has both acc and bat wires but don't think they are energized at the same time. Did you use the wires in the A-pillar to tap the acc wire?

I too confirmed the vanity mirror lights shut off some time after turning the rig off (I was sitting in the jeep with the windows open). I might test if it stays on when I'm not sitting in the rig with the windows closed and the doors locked.

Hi @Snowshoes

My accessory wires, tapped at the sight of the front dash cam, were the wires leading to the homelink buttons in the driver's side sun visor. Unlike the wires for the vanity light in this visor, the homelinek wires are, by FCA design, accessory wires, energized only when the rig is on, so someone cannot get into a home with a attached garage, with a power door opener configured to work with the homelink buttons by simply breaking into a parked rig and pushing said homelink buttons. You should have these wires regardless of whether you have a power mirror: which I do not.

I acquired a "Y" connector for the 12V plug in the rear, so my using it to energize my dual dash camera when the rig is off does not prevent me from using this outlet for other things. I also purchased a long cable with a 12V male plug at one end, and open wires on the other for attachment to the dash camera. This wire runs under the rear mats, front seats, front mats, and up the driver's side "A" pillar, gaining entry to it from the built in detachable piece near the left driver's leg, that allows the driver's door electric and retainer to be serviced. It then heads under along the "A" pillar from driver's side to center. I shoved it between the dash window (which I do not open) and the "A" pillar.

This rear outlet is 20 amps. Your dash cam will use infinitely small amounts of that current to the point where if the led lighs bar you desire has a luminescence that is compromised by this cargo outlet servicing dual purpose, then that outlet was never a good place to tap even if just solely for your desired lights. Your play then would be to drop wires below the rig, just like in a aftermarket 4 pin tow harness connection, that lead directly to the battery and are fused (read: fuse as in circuit breaker, not "connected") appropriately.

The cargo outlet is, by default, a battery only connection, not both battery and accessory. As discussed, you can switch it to operate as an accessory source by moving a fuse one slot over as described in the owner's manual, but then you will lose the parking dash cam on capabilities.

The front 12V is accessory. I have a 12V to USB converter in there with a cable that goes under the mats to the back to charge an LED USB battery based light I have.

There was some method to this seeming madness, as in, "Why didn't I simply tap one of the rear seat USB ports?" That's because the USB ports remain on about an hour I think after the rig is off, and I only wanted to charge this light when the rig and alternator are on--as little power as I suspect it draws to charge.

By no means are wires all over the place in my rig.

Again @Snowshoes, if you're looking for an easier battery wire, I'd suggest the separate one(s) running to the driver's side vanity mirror. As you mentioned, and again, the only reason I steered away from this unexplored vanity light cut out after x minutes with the rig off while I was sitting in the driver's seat. I forget if there is only 1 additional wire or two leading to the vanity mirror as it may share a ground wire with the homelink buttons. I don't recall.

People who leave their rigs after turning them off swear to me this vanity light can be turned on days after the rig has been sitting in the same place parked with nobody in the rig. There is a definitely a weight sensor on the driver's seat for door open auto Park gear operation, when a door is otherwise attached.[/S]

 

[Snowshoes]

@RussJeep1, I really appreciate your help. I decided to go with the cargo power outlet. I think the LED bar and the dash cam tapped together wouldn't be an issue from my rough calculation. I ordered 20 gauge wire online today.
Today I also confirmed the vanity mirror power shutting off. I was sitting at the back seat passenger side and the windows closed. I don't think JL has the weight sensor on the rear seats or maybe this varies by the trim level. I have a Sport S.
Again, thank you for your comments.

 

[RussJeep1]

@RussJeep1,
Today I also confirmed the vanity mirror power shutting off. I was sitting at the back seat passenger side and the windows closed. I don't think JL has the weight sensor on the rear seats or maybe this varies by the trim level. I have a Sport S.
Again, thank you for your comments.

Interesting finding @Snowshoes : thanks for posting and ruling out that weight on the front driver's seat plays a role. Apparently my theory was off.

 

[shum2007]

Trying to follow along, so for the home link dash cam wiring method...

so final verdict, does the yellow wire only start camera when car is on and it will it remain on as long as car is running?

and is the red constant even with car off? Or does red turn off after 30 mins?

thanks guys!

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