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Hard-wiring Dash Camera with HomeLink but Non-Powered Mirror

dudemind

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First off, credit to jericbarg and FatBoy01 for their help on this one. If anybody is looking to install a dash camera and have it hard-wired to start and stop automatically with the vehicle, here's a quick walkthrough.

Some notes:
- This method will cause the camera to turn on and off along with ESS, so you may want to tap into a fuse instead if you leave ESS on.
- This method requires that you have the HomeLink buttons on your driver side sun visor.
- If you have a powered mirror, it's probably easier to tap into the wires on that (and there's a good video out there showing what to do). My Rubi does not have a powered mirror.

1) Remove driver side freedom top (or soft top). Might help in final step if you remove passenger side as well, but it's not strictly necessary.

2) Move both visors out of the way and then pop off the large plastic trim piece above/around the mirror (which extends to both sides of the vehicle). Just grab on both sides, near the mirror, and yank diagonally down and towards the back of the vehicle.

3) Open the driver's door and undo the four T-25 Torx screws holding in the plastic trim piece on the roll bar above the driver's door. There are two pointing straight up (accessible from below) and two pointing down at an angle from above (only accessible once top is removed).

4) Pull the plastic piece off the roll bar by first pulling towards the inside of the vehicle to loosen two plastic guide posts and a clip, then pull straight towards the back of the vehicle to dislodge the portion that slips under the A-pillar trim.

5) Still in the roll bar, carefully cut into the white-with-blue-trim fabric wire shielding to expose the three wires inside (red, yellow, black). I just made a long slit, maybe four inches long.

6) Tap your dash cam hard-wiring kit into the yellow and black wires. I snipped both wires, stripped them, twisted them together with the hard-wiring kit wires, then used Posi-Twist connectors. You can achieve this in less-invasive methods if desired if you want to be more careful. Note that if you go with the same route I did, the wires are fairly taut, so you'll likely have to cut off the black tape holding it in a bend in order to give some slack.

7) Wrap the hell out of your work area with electrical tape.

8) Route your wire as needed to get to your dash cam. You can gently pull down on the trim piece from step 2 in order to do so. Nothing else needs to be removed.

8) Re-assemble everything. For the trim piece above/around the mirror, it's helpful to get to eye-level with the opening and and use your fingers to guide the clips into place as you re-align. There are three clips on each side of the mirror and haphazardly trying to shove the piece back on will likely bend/break some of them. Once the clips are surely lined up, a firm press will snap it back into place. Note that there's enough flex in the piece to do one side at a time.

Hope it helps!
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Yakpimp

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Why not tap into the power going to the mirror? That's what I did and meant I didn't have to route my wire at all?
 
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dudemind

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Why not tap into the power going to the mirror? That's what I did and meant I didn't have to route my wire at all?
This is for vehicles that didn't come with the powered mirror (like my Rubi). I should probably clarify in original post.
 

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First off, credit to jericbarg and FatBoy01 for their help on this one. If anybody is looking to install a dash camera and have it hard-wired to start and stop automatically with the vehicle, here's a quick walkthrough.

Some notes:
- This method will cause the camera to turn on and off along with ESS, so you may want to tap into a fuse instead if you leave ESS on.
- This method requires that you have the HomeLink buttons on your driver side sun visor.
- If you have a powered mirror, it's probably easier to tap into the wires on that (and there's a good video out there showing what to do). My Rubi does not have a powered mirror.

1) Remove driver side freedom top (or soft top). Might help in final step if you remove passenger side as well, but it's not strictly necessary.

2) Move both visors out of the way and then pop off the large plastic trim piece above/around the mirror (which extends to both sides of the vehicle). Just grab on both sides, near the mirror, and yank diagonally down and towards the back of the vehicle.

3) Open the driver's door and undo the four T-25 Torx screws holding in the plastic trim piece on the bar above the driver's door. There are two pointing straight up (accessible from below) and two pointing down at an angle from above (only accessible once top is removed).

4) Pull the plastic piece off by first pulling towards the inside of the vehicle to loosen two plastic guide posts and a clip, then pull straight towards the back of the vehicle to dislodge the portion that slips under the A-pillar trim.

5) Carefully cut into the white-with-blue-trim fabric wire shielding to expose the three wires inside (red, yellow, black). I just made a long slit, maybe four inches long.

6) Tap your dash cam hard-wiring kit into the yellow and black wires. I snipped both wires, stripped them, twisted them together with the hard-wiring kit wires, then used Posi-Twist connectors. You can achieve this in less-invasive methods if desired if you want to be more careful. Note that if you go with the same route I did, the wires are fairly taut, so you'll likely have to cut off the black tape holding it in a bend in order to give some slack.

7) Wrap the hell out of your work area with electrical tape.

8) Route your wire as needed to get to your dash cam. You can gently pull down on the trim piece from step 2 in order to do so. Nothing else needs to be removed.

8) Re-assemble everything. For the trim piece above/around the mirror, it's helpful to get to eye-level with the opening and and use your fingers to guide the clips into place as you re-align. There are three clips on each side of the mirror and haphazardly trying to shove the piece back on will likely bend/break some of them. Once the clips are surely lined up, a firm press will snap it back into place. Note that there's enough flex in the piece to do one side at a time.

Hope it helps!
Thanks for the tips! A few questions:

What camera are you using? And what features do you specifically like about it?
Can you share the link for the powered mirror video you mentioned?
If I were to have a camera that has a motion sensor would I be able to still wire it through the mirror? - I'm assuming the mirror is only powered when the vehicle is on. I would need a source of power when the vehicle is off for the motion detection.
 
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JLSpartan

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This is for vehicles that didn't come with the powered mirror (like my Rubi). I should probably clarify in original post.
Great write up, I have not explored that area for wires but I'm wondering if there are wires already running for the powered mirror even if you dont have the mirror? Did you happen to see anything like that or does Jeep not prewire for some accessories? Just wondering.
 
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dudemind

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Thanks for the tips! A few questions:

What camera are you using? And what features do you specifically like about it?
Can you share the link for the powered mirror video you mentioned?
If I were to have a camera that has a motion sensor would I be able to still wire it through the mirror? - I'm assuming the mirror is only powered when the vehicle is on. I would need a source of power when the vehicle is off for the motion detection.
I'm using an Aukey DR-02. After my first non-Chinese-junk dash camera (a Garmin) went kaput due to the battery not dealing with high temperatures (along with several definitely-Chinese-junk dying for the same reason), I switched all my cars to capacitor-type cameras in this wedge-style form factor. I've got a few SpyTec A118-Cs, a 119-C, and two Aukey DR-02s now. Yes, these are all slightly-above-average-Chinese-junk brands, and you can find much better quality cameras. But they suit my needs and none of the capacitor-based models have failed on me yet (the oldest one is going on near two years now, by which time every single one of my battery-based cameras had started acting up). I figure it's cheaper to switch these out from time to time than pony up once for a higher-end camera with features that I won't be using.

Here's the video I mentioned:

I'm going to allow somebody else to opine regarding having it live at all times w/o killing the battery. I know some of the higher-end cameras have this ability but I've yet to dabble with it.

Hope it helps.
 
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dudemind

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Great write up, I have not explored that area for wires but I'm wondering if there are wires already running for the powered mirror even if you dont have the mirror? Did you happen to see anything like that or does Jeep not prewire for some accessories? Just wondering.
That's a good question. There are some wires up there, but they were leading to the vanity mirrors. It's entirely possible that they also have the wires in place for the powered mirror even if the vehicle isn't equipped with it. If I have time, I'll get back in there and double-check the wire bundle that passes closest to the mirror. If somebody else comes up with a smarter way to wire this up, I'd be happy to "localize" my install as well!
 

JLSpartan

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That's a good question. There are some wires up there, but they were leading to the vanity mirrors. It's entirely possible that they also have the wires in place for the powered mirror even if the vehicle isn't equipped with it. If I have time, I'll get back in there and double-check the wire bundle that passes closest to the mirror. If somebody else comes up with a smarter way to wire this up, I'd be happy to "localize" my install as well!
I was actually looking for the OEM mirror to see if there are any install directions out there but have had no luck yet. I would assume that they wouldn't make an installer run wires all the way down the pillars somewhere just to add a powered mirror, but who knows.
 

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First off, credit to jericbarg and FatBoy01 for their help on this one. If anybody is looking to install a dash camera and have it hard-wired to start and stop automatically with the vehicle, here's a quick walkthrough.

Some notes:
- This method will cause the camera to turn on and off along with ESS, so you may want to tap into a fuse instead if you leave ESS on.
- This method requires that you have the HomeLink buttons on your driver side sun visor.
- If you have a powered mirror, it's probably easier to tap into the wires on that (and there's a good video out there showing what to do). My Rubi does not have a powered mirror.

1) Remove driver side freedom top (or soft top). Might help in final step if you remove passenger side as well, but it's not strictly necessary.

2) Move both visors out of the way and then pop off the large plastic trim piece above/around the mirror (which extends to both sides of the vehicle). Just grab on both sides, near the mirror, and yank diagonally down and towards the back of the vehicle.

3) Open the driver's door and undo the four T-25 Torx screws holding in the plastic trim piece on the roll bar above the driver's door. There are two pointing straight up (accessible from below) and two pointing down at an angle from above (only accessible once top is removed).

4) Pull the plastic piece off the roll bar by first pulling towards the inside of the vehicle to loosen two plastic guide posts and a clip, then pull straight towards the back of the vehicle to dislodge the portion that slips under the A-pillar trim.

5) Still in the roll bar, carefully cut into the white-with-blue-trim fabric wire shielding to expose the three wires inside (red, yellow, black). I just made a long slit, maybe four inches long.

6) Tap your dash cam hard-wiring kit into the yellow and black wires. I snipped both wires, stripped them, twisted them together with the hard-wiring kit wires, then used Posi-Twist connectors. You can achieve this in less-invasive methods if desired if you want to be more careful. Note that if you go with the same route I did, the wires are fairly taut, so you'll likely have to cut off the black tape holding it in a bend in order to give some slack.

7) Wrap the hell out of your work area with electrical tape.

8) Route your wire as needed to get to your dash cam. You can gently pull down on the trim piece from step 2 in order to do so. Nothing else needs to be removed.

8) Re-assemble everything. For the trim piece above/around the mirror, it's helpful to get to eye-level with the opening and and use your fingers to guide the clips into place as you re-align. There are three clips on each side of the mirror and haphazardly trying to shove the piece back on will likely bend/break some of them. Once the clips are surely lined up, a firm press will snap it back into place. Note that there's enough flex in the piece to do one side at a time.

Hope it helps!
Great write up but I'm confused about one thing... how does the tie in with ESS. You said if you turn off ESS (via the button below radio) it would effect the camera.
 

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dudemind

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Great write up but I'm confused about one thing... how does the tie in with ESS. You said if you turn off ESS (via the button below radio) it would effect the camera.
Sorry, I think that might have been poorly-worded on my part.

I meant that the power source I mentioned goes on and off with the engine, meaning your choice of ESS on/not will directly affect whether your camera stays on at stoplights.

Come to think of it, I don't think I checked whether the RED wire in the same location will do the job. I assumed it was an "always on" source (even when vehicle is locked) based on the fact that people have used it to allow their HomeLink to work without car running. But I didn't consider that nobody would go in the car, re-lock the vehicle, then use HomeLink without it running. If it turns off when the vehicle is locked, that'd be a more consistent source that wouldn't be affected by ESS. I'm going to test this weekend and will revert back with my findings.
 

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Thanks for the clarification, that makes more sense. Look up "dash cam" and you will see your post and a homelink post. Those guys are using red for homelink since it is always on and they can operate their garage door without the car being live.

I need to get info on your camera or a similar one I am buying regarding constant power source and movement recording.
 

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Using their guides I tapped into the red wire and it’s on constantly. The dash has an internal power monitor so it turns off when it detects a voltage drop but otherwise is recording when the car is off.
 
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dudemind

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Thanks for the clarification, that makes more sense. Look up "dash cam" and you will see your post and a homelink post. Those guys are using red for homelink since it is always on and they can operate their garage door without the car being live.

I need to get info on your camera or a similar one I am buying regarding constant power source and movement recording.
Yeah the thread by jericbarg RE: always-on HomeLink was where I got the idea for the power-source for the dash-cam. But, as mentioned, I think I assumed the red wire was always on (like the USB ports, for example, even when car is locked). If that's the case, you could use that. If "always on" means "always on as long as vehicle is unlocked", that be a better choice for my needs so that I don't have to worry about ESS (but wouldn't work for your needs).


I will investigate...
 
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dudemind

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Using their guides I tapped into the red wire and it’s on constantly. The dash has an internal power monitor so it turns off when it detects a voltage drop but otherwise is recording when the car is off.
Ah, good to know. Even when car is locked?
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